I'm a Oil Junkie

Sarge is back. Maybe he'll answer you soon. :dunno:

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Originally Posted by Tobynine9

Is that what that is?? I was laying next to the car banging on my y-pipe trying to figure out where that rattle was coming from but I couldn't see much with out jacking/lifting it.

Amsoil sounds like an elixir fit for divinity as much as y'all are talking it up. If it weren't so doggone expensive I'd be ordering a case tonight. Sarge, am I reading your posts correctly that you say synthetic Castrol 0-30 is second best? It's hard to... follow where you're... going sometimes with all the... everywhere...

Seems there's a lot of us in S TX.

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Sorry did not see your post. I'm old and feeble:)
I shouldn't "rank" oils....as one may be a better fit for one persons mods/geographical conditions and driving habits and another may be better for a different set of circumstances....German Castrol 0-30 and Amsoil are top quality oils for sure....German Castrol 05 mixes are not the same and the jury is still out on this "new" formulation...also availablity of the 04/03/02 versions are dwindling to the point of extinction.....Amsoil will deliver to your doorstep....that should be taken into consideration also....

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Originally Posted by Dantees

Did anyone ever see that episode of Horse Power Tv where they have a 4th gen camaro SS and they put synthetic motor oil, synthetic transmition fluid, and synthetic gear oil, and they gain like 10 HP from doing this?

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Yes I've seen this and other tests like this in magazines and TV-it's true.The reduction in friction is amazing-but I'm more impressed with the longevity issues also.Any quality synthetic can give these results,not just royal purple,and they do seem to have a quality product.

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Originally Posted by Sarge

....German Castrol 05 mixes are not the same and the jury is still out on this "new" formulation...

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From what I've heard, :thumbdn: on the new German Castrol '05 mixes.

What happened to SRV and the Goat?

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Originally Posted by Tobynine9

What happened to SRV and the Goat?

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They'll be back:):usa:

This story dates back to 1986 when i flew model airplanes with gasoline engines. The usual mix with regular 2 stroke engines was 4 ounces of 2 stroke oil per gallon of gasoline.T hen amsoil came out and we were able to mix 1 ounce to a gallon.Now thats lubricatoin.Those engines ran hot as hell whith no ill effects and less mess.

oil is so overrated

STFU Zboner...big people are talkinig here.....
now I know why your ride is burnt up all the time:)
Hahahahahaha

haha,i had to say that.

It's sad to see such a well-informed man lose his mind in anger and senility.

Guys,be nice---its Christmas!

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Originally Posted by Zboner

oil is so overrated

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Interesting quote from a guy with how many blown engines to his credit? Kinda reminds me of a woman I met years ago with engine trouble on a car several years old. To the question, "When was the last time you chaged your oil?" she responded, "You mean you're supposed to change it? I thought you only needed to add some if it gets low."

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Originally Posted by pet_monk

Hey Sarge;

While I am shopping for oils what would be the best fluid for my tranny and rear end? Was looking at the Mobil 1 Syn Dex III and hadn't found one for the rear end yet.

The only reason I am changing the fluid in the rear end is because after the military shipped my car over here the rear end started to leak, but not enough to drip yet. It has fluid all over the place and this weekend I am going to wash it off and see if the fluid shows back up.

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Had my rear pinion seal replaced - GM now markets a fully synthetic rear diff. fluid with a "grape" smell (??? don't know why, mebbe gears run more smoothly if the fluid smells purty - NOT! :)). Don't know who makes it for them; my mechanic gave me a bottle of it for top-off if I needed it.

On this GM rear end fluid debate/discussion.....No...I cannot provide chemical breakdowns and analysis...but I can tell you on the GTO...Royal Purple is the bee's knee's.....Amsoil on many occasions didn't allow the posi to engage and I was frying one tire many times.....the stock GM stuff really struggled with engaging the posi....now with Royal Purple I'm a dual tire smoking SOB....and it sure is quiet back there:)

i have never blown an engine in fact, the dealer installed a junk engine before i bought the car, nothing was wrong with the engine at all. it was my choice to have it rebuilt:lol: , i change my oil every 3k, as long as you keep it changed every 3k you will be fine

Just got my latest UOA back....the Shell Rotella 15-40 is doing a GREAT JOB.....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v647/sgtgeek/UOAS.jpg
The actual report....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/UOA12-05.jpg
I am going to continue "tweaking"...we wanted to raise the moly and see what effect that has on the copper (bearings)....the lead dropped like a rock.....that is good....
We have a soup of 5 quarts Chevron Delo 15-40/2 quarts Amsoil 15-40 and 8 oz's of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment in right now.....big shot of Moly and Boron...so we will see.....
EDIT...just occured to me some folks may not know what these metals represent....so here is my "cheat sheet":)
Aluminum : Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).
Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.
Iron : Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.
Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.
Lead: Bearings.
Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.
Molybdenum : Anti-wear additive, coating on some new rings
(washes off as break-in occurs).
Nickel: Trace element in steel.
Manganese : Trace element, additive in gasoline.
Silver: Trace element.
Titanium: Trace element.
Potassium : Antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oil types.
Boron: Detergent/dispersant additive, antifreeze inhibitors.
Silicon : Airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets, antifreeze inhibitors.
Sodium: Antifreeze inhibitors, additive in some gasoline engine oils.
Calcium : Detergent/dispersant additive.
Magnesium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive.
Zinc: Anti-wear additive.
Barium : Detergent/dispersant additive.

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Originally Posted by Zboner

i have never blown an engine in fact, the dealer installed a junk engine before i bought the car, nothing was wrong with the engine at all. it was my choice to have it rebuilt:lol: , i change my oil every 3k, as long as you keep it changed every 3k you will be fine

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I was just kiddin' with you in my earlier post... but if the dealer installed a junk engine, how could there be nothing wrong with it at all? :thinkin: I hope you didn't have the dealer that installed the junk engine do the rebuild.

I imagine it would be very hard to blow an engine; I've never tried and never will, but it seems like you would burn your lips on the exhaust tip while trying to do so.:dunno:

Sarge, nice work on your soup recipes.

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Originally Posted by GatorSS

I was just kiddin' with you in my earlier post... but if the dealer installed a junk engine, how could there be nothing wrong with it at all? :thinkin: I hope you didn't have the dealer that installed the junk engine do the rebuild.

I imagine it would be very hard to blow an engine; I've never tried and never will, but it seems like you would burn your lips on the exhaust tip while trying to do so.:dunno:

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wow at least third degree burns which means no p---y kissin.