well that will be fixed when I do an alignment but the main thing messed with are caster and camber. im still gonna do the tie rods again though.Quote:
Originally Posted by c5z28
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well that will be fixed when I do an alignment but the main thing messed with are caster and camber. im still gonna do the tie rods again though.Quote:
Originally Posted by c5z28
Now just waiting on Swaybars, PCM, MAF, stall, tranny cooler, trans gauge, and UMI trans mount.
ALso a how-to has been posted on K member and A arms in Suspention section.
If you have some old tires to drive to the shop on that would be best. Once a tire has been feathered it never goes away unless they cut it. I'm being anal but having seen some people's tires I can't help it.
Well im back for a little bit, might have to go back but i got a few things in the mail. Got the new 85mm GM MAF, some new brake pins, tires (still gotta pick them up) and (GASP) my new Frost tuned PCM :)
Now i had a question, ive got everything installed on my car EXCEPTED the stall that the PCM is tuned for, will this affect drivablity much or will it be ok until I get the stall installed? I know i gotta disccont the battery and install everything anyway which will force the car to relearn everything.
Why more oil and thicker well I assume because of the heat so should we chage oil for the 1/4 mile track. I ve been asked to go at Shubenacadie Track down in NS 1.6m only 11 turns so It makes me wonder why the changesQuote:
Originally Posted by shady milkman
Thanks
So i plugged in the new MAF and tuned computer. Cars bucking like an untamed bronco but its learning. Not trying to push it too hard until i get the new stall in and the car learns to drive itself again... oh and an alignment lol
Oh and for you guys that are looking into aftermarket MAFs... DONT.
I closly examined the 85mm MAF and the Delphi GM 85mm (escalade) MAF and it took me a good second to find the difference.... THEM SOB's from SLP use stock GM truck MAFs, solder a resistor inbetween two of the sensor tubes, and slap an SLP stickers over the Delphi logo. So all in all, if you payed for an SLP MAF (i didnt by the way lol) all your paying for is a resistor soldered (poorly mind you) to some of the tube.
SO if any of you guys were like me and were wondering why people tell you to save your money on better bought stuff listen to them. Now i never bought mine, it was given to me so i didnt bite the bullet on $200s for it, but I now am glad that i never did buy it.
Your paying for a sticker and a resistor to trick your computer into leaning out your car for $200... DONT DO IT!
Your car will be a bomb after good for you now I can't wait to see the video and chat on this subjectQuote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83
lol thanks, my list of mods has deviated SEVERLY since then though lol But i still intend to get CTS-V 4Piston calipers one day. I got ahold of some other 17" rims so i went that route for now. I compromised and got some used Konis :) work great still compared to my completely usless old decarbon shocks lol
ls6 intake manifold
LS6 Valley cover w/vent
Ls6 steam tubes and blocks
New style KS harness
LS Knock sensors
EGR/AIR block off?
vision motorworks 80mm throttle body
SLP lid and smoothe Bellows
3pin to 5pin MAF harness
GM LS 85mm MAF
Tuned PCM from frost
Spare PCM for tuning
145 amp truck ALT mod
MSD plug wires
NGK tr6ix
UMI RR K-member
UMI 2pt Subframe connector
UMI tunnel brace with loop
UMI Trans Relo Mount
UMI Upper A arms Poly
UMI Lower A arms poly/roto
UMI Adj PH rod
UMI Panhard relocation bar
UMI Adj Torque Arm
UMI Torque arm bolts
F/P LCA Relocation braket
new upperball joints
Prothane Poly motor mount bushings
BMR hollow sway bars 35/22
Vogtland 1.2" lowering springs
Koni sa 4/4 shocks f/R (used)
ls1 to C5 brake bracket
C5 D/S Front Rotors
Hawks HPS Pads f&r
Russel steelbraided brake lines
New wheel hubs
Kumho 295/35ZR17 XS
Kumho 275/40ZR17 SPT
revmax 3200 TC Stage 5
B&M Trans cooler kit
Shiftglo trans temp gauge
speedinc Gauge adaptor
SFI Flexplate
ARP flexplate bolt
ARP torque convert bolts
WIX Trans filter
OBX LT headers
LLP Ypipe with HF cats
80series Flowmaster
hmmm pretty light on the power mods and a TON of supporting hardware... I like it!!!!!
I wish I had the time and money to do all this. I started and have 2 seasons of mods behind me but so much of this stuff is on my wish list it's crazy
I've only done.
UMI 3 point SFC's
UMI adjustable LCA's with rotojoints at the axle and poly at the chassis
Strano Springs
KYB AGX's
energy suspension poly end links
Drag Bags in the rear springs
Monster stage 3 clutch and 28lb billet flywheel
Tick adjustable MC and remote speed bleed line
UMI strut tower bar
SLP lid
Fernco coupling in place of a smooth bellows (only 6 bucks lol)
Spohn Solid engine mounts
poly trans mount.
I think that's the list for now. I'd love to finish off the suspension and drivetrain like yours. only instead of the PHB i'm more interested in a Watts link. When you study the geometry of the two methods you see the inherent advantage enjoyed by the watts design. It's pricier but people who have em swear by em
Ive actually been looking into the Watts link, but i had already purchased the Panhard and support befor hand so Ill hold off on that until i do a rear end eventually. One day Ill pony up for a watts link. I also want to do a Carbonfiber Drive shaft if i can find one.Quote:
Originally Posted by LSCyaL8R
I do recommend you reconsider looking into Konis, even if used. I went this route getting used Koni 4/4s and spent about $600 for all 4 shocks with less then 5000 miles on them. Car handles 100x better then the stock decarbons. If your gonna stricly go drag setup, Id still go with at least Bilsteins as a contender. I havnt run AGX's but i havnt heard as many good reviews as ive herad not good reviews lol. I perfer AutoX and Road Racing to Drag but even then if your car sees more then 100 miles a month with lots of Daily driving then I would get shocks that at least are comfortable. Konis are adjustable and handle lowering springs WAY better. I have Vogtlands, simular to Stranos and it was night and day difference between stock and Konis with the springs. The stock shocks couldnt even begin to manage the lowring springs. Then the Konis went in and I got back some ride heighth after that which i liked cause the stock fronts were saggin baddly.
So needless to say, go Konis or at LEAST bilsteins for better ride quality.
Ride height is determined by springs not shocks. Was just tested on this today:)
not entirely correct..shocks can adjust height...on the konis you have a top perch location and a lower perch setting that will drop the ride height by .5 of an inchQuote:
Originally Posted by c5z28
That was in the back of my head posting that, that's what I get for not using the disclaimer:shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by shady milkman
lol sorry thats kinda my fault too. I didnt input that info with the Koni Shocks. THe Top Perch setting actually gave me alittle more clearance compared to the stock Decarbos by about an 1" with the Vogtland springs installed. Its still lowered but it isnt as "slammed" as before which made me happy after installing the Konis.Quote:
Originally Posted by c5z28
But for SCHOOL purposes yes, ride height is mostly determined by Springs.
ON a rare occasion the Shocks, Spindals, Lower A-arms, And even swaybars can effect ride height as well but overall, springs do most of the work.
looking at the Schedule and so far im looking at around the last week of april/first week of may time frame for a Ring Run. So far the schedule is pretty empty for it and hopfully the weather stays like it has been clear and sunny.
I wonder if there are any 4th gen ring times out there.... i've never tried to find one. running all out on decent tires i'd say low 8's is quite doable....
Subbed. Cant way to see this thing on the 'ring.
Maybe this will get the blood going..lol
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6mEirkQN8o&feature=more_related[/ame]
Well i got word from my wife that a big long box came in the mail, so im guessing that my swaybars have FINALLY made it. Its only been since Jan 31st since i ordered them and should have been in by the 24th of FEB... and now its april... kinda pissed. fortunatly ive been too busy to worry about it but still. I managed to order, wait, recieve, AND install my UMI RR K-member before i got these and I ordered the Kmember mid feb.
Oh and im back to looking around for a rearmount turbo system :) might have fuond one for a REALLY good deal. Might need an intercooler system for it but other than that its complete. Its not an STS so its already better lol and its running a T70.
Im getting stuff together slowy for it. Id REALLY love to get one of those oilless comp turbos. Thats the bees neezs right there. If those are as reliable as they say, im all over that like a fat kid on hoohoos and sprinkles :)
Well the swaybars are in, the frontend has been aligned, and the reartires are on the way. Gotta say im pretty happy with everything. Still gotta do the stall to complete the transformation, but already i can tell this thing handles AMAZING. the stock ways were tiny compared to the new BMR 35/25 set up :) pics will follow soon. still busy with work so i gotta get in where i fit in for installs. this weekend im thinking of doing the stall, cooler, gauge, and mount. hopefully. would really like to step on the gas with out the stock stall hamstringing the car. the tune is set up for a 3200 stall and the car really doesnt want the stock stall in there anymore lol
OH and i piced up some 18" rims form some guy with tires for really cheap. pics wil follow. gotta get pics of the rims i just finished, and then the rims that i just got yesterday and then see what they look like. Now that i have 18" rims i can look into CTS-V or Z06 calipers and rotors :)