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The ground on the head is the ground for the fuel pump relay.
The pump itself has its own ground. If you can hook a test light across the gray wire and the black wire back at the fuel tank connector, and it lights up when cranking, then the power and ground to the pump are ok and the pump itself isn't working.
I put my meter across those two wires, and I got power on crank. Is this the same? I'm gonna try tapping the tank with a rubber mallet and see if that does anything.
Sound like it is. You can also check your ground with an ohmeter with no power on. Put the test lead between the ground wire and a ground chassis. So far sounds like your pump is bad. :(
I replaced mine with racetronix one but after 1 month it started whinning. They say that it is normal after long driving time and low fuel level. Other than that is a good pump so far.
Yes and no. A test light puts an actual load on the circuit unlike a meter. Its a better test.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKid
A loose or bad electrical connection is like a kinked garden hose. Yes the hose flows a little bit of water but not enough to run a sprinkler. Does that make sense?
Okay, fuel pressure is there. For some reason I had no pressure at the test valve, but at the relief at the end of the rail I have more than enough to coat the entire engine compartment:sillyme:
So on to spark. Zero...
I pulled a boot, and tried to get an arc from the spring to the plug and got nothing. I tried putting the boot half way on to see if I could hear a pop pop pop, and nothing.
I was able to pull 3 codes with the Diablo
EGR (didn't tune it out yet)
Generator L-Terminal Circuit (low battery?)
A/C evap sensor low temp indicated
...and yes, that makes sense. Didn't think off it that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass
So I finally get a code that looks promising:
P0335 Crankshaft Position A Circuit Malfunction
I drop the starter out and find the the 3 wires to the sensor pinched. I seperate them, check for a break, and wrap them up. I reinstall the starter, clear the code with my Diablo, and hit the key. Nothing but cranking. I'm also getting negative RPM's. The needle actually drops below zero on crank. Run my scan cool and get P0335 again. Will this code clear properly with my scanner, or do I have to pull the PCM fuse?
I'm also getting the P1637 Generator L code. Related?
The code should clear if the issue is resolved. hopefully the crankshaft sensor is not bad. when the wires got pinch it could had mess the sensor too. I can confirmed that if the crankshaft sensor is your only problem since there is no spark... don't give up you will find it. You have done an awesome job with that build so far
I am wondering if I'm stuck in the CASE relearn situation now. I don't know if pinching the wires caused a short, and the pcm thinks it's a new sensor now that it's fixed. My Diablo won't do a Case relearn. I was going to just throw a new sensor in, but I think I would definately need a relearn then.
p.s. Thanks for the encouragement. It's so f***ing frustration to drop $4000 on motor parts, and be stuck dealing with $50 sensors.
you could be right about that. Don't worry you will figure it out. how long you have been working on the build so far?
It should still run even it isn't relearned. Check those wires again, maybe pull the sensor out to see if its damaged somehow
Yeah, I'll pull it tomorrow and give it a once over. I'm gonna cutt all the plastic tubing off the wires. It's brittle from the heat, and just in the way all together.Hopefully I missed a break all the way through. Thanks again Cutlass.
Jay: I started this back in October 09 when my Transmission took a dump. I figured I might as well do everything at once.
We have ignition! Unfortunately it runs like dog poop. Won't stay running, and will only smooth out over 4k. I have to keep feathering the gas to keep it alive. I'm going to try pulling the pcm fuse for 30 minutes, then cross my fingers. If I have to go to the dealer for a reset, I might as well just bring it to the dyno shop for a full tune, no?
Again, thanks Cutlass. I owe you a beer...or maybe a keg. The green wire on the CKP was broken straight through. They are so damn thin it was hard to see.
Congrats.....can't wait to see a vid posted...
Haha...no vid till she smooths out. You can't see the car through the exhaust smoke right now anyway:(Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
A tune should fix the running issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKid
A beer sounds good right about now :)
You got it. Just swing buy the garage,lol:cheers:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass
Judging by the amount of fuel spraying out of the headers, and the smoke filling hte garage, she may be juuuuust a bit rich. I'm going to tone the injector slope down, and see if I can get it road worthy.
I've been cleaning up some odds and ends over the past week. I adjusted the injector slope, and they smoothed it right out. I also had a charging issue. Found the wire from the alternator had been broken. Smallest freakin wire I've ever seen used in a car. I also got the front suspension lined up by sight the best I could. Alignment shop isn't too far away, so I'm not worried. Here is a quick video of it idling:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6lDGtguWrE[/ame]
I have the same ugly ass green Interstate battery. Nice!
Lol. I'm totally going to hit up Third Shift for a cover! It's bad enough you can see it with the hood open, but at certain angles it shows through the headlight gap:rl:Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Good thing is, it took all of the abuse of draining and charging repeatedly over the last few weeks.