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Ok, I'm thinking I can change out my clutch myself but was wondering what all I need. I have a tranny jack, several stands and my own tools. I've changed out my tranny on my old K5 blazer before but really have'nt gotten underneath to look at what Im dealing with. I want to do the LS7 upgrade and change my rearmain while Im down there. ANY tips would be great and just telling me Im WAY IN OVER MY HEAD as well....
Thanks,
SH
P.S. I'd like to do a step by step write up if I decide to do this..
step-by-step write up with pictures?
subscribed.
for the clutch
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
I was the same way with mine but decided what the hell and done it. Didn't find it very helpfull taking trans from bell housing first. I used jack stands and floor jack and one person helping. You can use the weight of the trans to make it easier to get to bolts on back of motor and bell housing. The one on the about 1 o clock pos on pass side is a PITA with the breather tube on it. Not sure about rear main but think all it is is pry it out and put new one in. Very few wires and MAKE SURE TO DRAIN FLUID FIRST. Learned the hard way.
Just pulled the tranny and clutch last night. When the tranny came out it had a small metal ring hanging from the input shaft. Didn't know what it was so I put it to the side to figure it out later. Pulled the clutch plate, disc and flywheel and looked at where the tranny input shaft goes into the crankshaft. There sat another ring of metal pressed into the inside diameter of the crankshaft and lots of metal dust all over. The pilot (needle) bearing had disintegrated on the input shaft. My clutch was completely gone, plate and flywheel looked burnt and slightly distorted, and chiltons/Haynes manulas barely helped. What I can say to you is the hydraulic line (drivers side of bellhousing) needs to be removed. To do this there is a little plastic (looks almost like teflon) insert ring around the area that plugs into the tranny. Take a flat head screwdriver and go around the whole diameter pressing this as far into the connection as possible (you'll see what I mean) this will release the locks inside and allow you to pull the connection out. I found it easier to remove the tranny from the bellhousing first and then remove the bellhousing from the engine. But I was doing it on a lift. The manuals told me to remove the entire torque arm assembly. I didn't, just removed the front support and loosened the back bolts. It also tells you to remove the catalytic converter in order to remove the starter which is ridiculous. I pulled 2 bolts from the starter and wired it up so it wouldn't hang from the wires. I would suggest buying a new pilot bearing (around $30), make sure the friction surfaces are completely clean (brake cleaner) and bag and tag all your bolts and parts. I am putting mine back in tonight. I will let you know how it goes and fill you in on any pointers I find later.
Thanks for the heads up I'll be doing my sway next weekend and I've purchased the LS7 setup Im excited...
Just finished tonight. Got everything back together last night and went to put the hydraulic line back into the slave cylinder and it wouldn't snap in. Messed with it for a while until the place closed where I have my car and found out I needed a new slave. The retaining ring inside the socket where the line plugs in, apparently, was too old and the fingers would just bend when I put it in. So I pulled the tranny back out today and replaced the slave. The moral...spend the extra $100 (or so) and save yourself the headache. Also if you've never bled a hydraulic clutch before get someone who knows how to do it. Which reminds me...now I have to start a new thread on how to bleed the frickin clutch.
hey fast,
great info man, subsribed for this winter when i pull mine out
all i got to say is Hand Vacuum Pump. i bled mine with this and it took me ten minutes to get all the air outQuote:
Originally Posted by !!!FAST!!!
Yeah, that's probably what I'll end up doing. She runs good now and shifting is still pretty quick but that damn pedal is so soft. Next week I'm gonna drop the the 5.0 shifter in it and I'll probably bleed them then. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by blatty86
No problem hope it makes somebodies changeout easier. Now that I know how to do it it'll take me a fraction of the time next time.Quote:
hey fast,
great info man, subsribed for this winter when i pull mine out
Im doing it this weekend hopefully I got a LS7 Kit w/flywheel for 300shipped!! New in box WOOHOO!! I need to order my slave cylinder/throwout bearing today gonna get it from SDC
Hey caveblazin where did you get the LS7 from? That's a great price:notworthy:
EBAY I just got lucky but there are some on there that are close.
Here was my auction that I won
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=280267591739
Thanks for the info. This is one of my winter projects. I am also going to do the throwout bearing/slave cylinder, short throw shifter, headers and whatever else I can get to while its up in the air.
I just did the exact same thing FAST did last week, I put a SPEC stage 2 clutch, which came with the PP, disc, pilot and throwout bearing, my pilot bearing was disentagrated just as his was, I also had to replace the slave like he did, and my PP and flywheel were burned and warped bad just as his, I had my stock flywheel resurfaced ( turned ) for $40 at a machine shop, or you can buy a new one for $80-100. I put the RAM slave and adjustable master cynlinder back in. That way I didn't have to do the drill mod to the master. I also installed the Pro 5.0 shifter in mine as well, I bought the Ws6store short stick, to go with it for $25 but I don't believe its going to work in my trans because its not angled like the stock one so I might not be able to get it in reverse, when I took my trans out I realised it wasn't a T56 but instead it was a Tremec!!! I was actually happy about that because the Tremecs are one of the best 6 speeds on the market and much better than the T56. However the Tremec weighs over 150ibs and you will need help lifting it.
Now on a side note, the main reason I took my trans out was to fix the reverse problem. A lot of ppl on this forum have had reverse problems mostly grinding to get in gear. There are actually several causes to this and depending on your reverses present state of condition will depend on the cost of the repair. The first problem being the reverse lockout solenoid on top of the trans. From GM its a $166 part. Check this first, if your not having any problems withy our reverse yet, I highly suggest replacing this part if its showing signs of wear, the 2nd being the shift fork/pads, the fork is alluminum and tends to get bent, mine wasn't but my pads for 5th and 6th and reverse were wore out, each gear shares these paids, so 1st and 2nd have 1, 2nd and 3rd have 1 and 4th & 5th have 1, These pads are very cheap only about $6 each. when you take your trans out, I more than highly recommend you replacing these now because if you don't you reverse gear will eventually tear out. I didn't do it soon enough so a $6 fix turned out to be $300 to replace my reverse gear and syncro, and thats just parts. I have a complete schematic of a T56 trans taken apart with a numbered list of each and every single part inside of it straight from GM, I could possibly get this scanned and printed too LS1.com if anyone needs it. If you have any more questions feel free to ask me.