427 stoker help please

Complete 7.0 Liter (427 cubic inch) MTI Super-Stroker Includes: Resleeved LS2 Block. 4340 Forged Callies Steel Crank, Billet Steel Compstar Connecting Rods, Forged Aluminum Wiseco Ceramic Coated Pistons.
MTI Stage III Ported & Polished Racing LS1 Cylinder Heads includes- Ferrea Stainless Steel 2.080” intake & 1.60” exhaust valves, custom double valve springs, titanium retainers, custom spring locators & extensive port & polished work.
MTI custom computer tuning, includes complete recalibration of vehicle computer such as engine Rev Limiter, idle speed 8 timing / air fuel maps.
Comp Cams OEM lifters, MTI underdrive pully package, F.A.S.T. 90/90, Complete gasket set utilizing custom head gaskets and MTI hardened push rods, Spec stage III clutch with billet steel flywheel, NGK spark plugs & MSD plug wires & MSD coil packs, New GM water pump, and ford 30lb fuel injectors. That’s just a list of what I had MTI out of Houston Tx. Do for me. They shipped the motor to me, me and my father installed it. The motor runs great and performs beyond what I could imagine, I’ve had the motor for just over two years now and just recently turned 2200 miles on it. Yes that it I was still n school and didn’t get much time to get the car out. The reason for the post is I’m having trouble with the motor burning oil. I talked to Jason at MTI awhile ago & was told that some guys reported their motor not seeding up(breaking in) till 1500 to 2000 miles. I’m at that point & still using a lot of oil.
My question is should I be alarmed by this & is there anything I can do to fix this or make it better?? Another thing is when i start the car to let it warm up it spits out this black sut/dirt every time all the time.?? Any info & thoughts are welcome.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...77/NVDSWS6.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...777/WS6oil.jpg

come on guys nothing at all ????

gorgous car!!!!! im drueling...sry no help though

the black shit sounds real bad.......how much oil is it burning? mine goes thru a fair amt but i dont think its a big deal as i dont ever smell it burning or have any funny smoke coming out the back......prolly 1.5 quarts per 3000 miles........so every 1000 i add a half quart....dosnt seem rediculous to me...what weight oil are u running? what did mti say u should be running? i run a 15w50 in mine as lpe recommends that or a 20 50

it goes thru alot of oil at least it seems too. a quart every 100 miles or so. 10W40 mobil 1 synthetic. as you can see in the pics the sut coming out is bad. thats after a couple starts and it sitting there while it gets warm.

Have you pulled the plugs to see if its one particular cyclinder? Then I would run a compression and leak down test. It could have a broken ring. Thats just my .02.

compression and leak down test?? something i can do personally and have a shop do? i have changed the plugs but didnt pay much attention to them.

Hmmm. It seems they are still at it down there in Houston. I had them do Heads/cam on my car back in 2003 and it started burning oil after I drove it back from Tx to Fl. Jason told me the same thing just put about 1500 to 2500 miles to let the valves to set. It kept burning oil the stock short block went less than 6 months later.

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Originally Posted by SpinsB

compression and leak down test?? something i can do personally and have a shop do? i have changed the plugs but didnt pay much attention to them.

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They're guages you can buy at your local parts store. basically you thread the gauge into the spark plug hole then crank the engine over 3 or 4 times. Make sure you pull the relay for the fuelpump and bleed off the pressure from the shrader valve FIRST so the engine wont start. For more indepth directions pick up a service manual for your vehicle and it will walk you through it step by step and tell you what a good cylinder should read. . Good luck!

Did you put synthetic in the motor from the very beginning cuz if that is the case the pistons rings will not wear in correctly.:true:

ya you have to run dino oil for the brake in time. and the black sut is more then likly burnt oil.

Get out to your local dragstrip and turn that 427 loose. Put some foot in the floor and run the car down the strip a couple of times. Best way I know to break them rings in. Especially if you already have 2,000 miles on it. I bet they were around town miles too!

i'd say the car is junk and you should just give it to me. :drool: lol

have you checked the seals.. how much port work was done in a few spots on the ls1 heads run to oil i have seen lots of the castings give lose and leak oil into the runner might be somethin to look into

way too much oil burning. def do the testing listed above.

I use to burn alot of oil like you, even had the same black soot in the garage behind the tail pipes. You are sucking oil into your intake manifold and/or the TB. Remove all rubber tubes that run from the crankcase or the valve covers to the intake manifold or the TB. Simple vent the crankcase and the valve covers to the atmosphere. I have had this problem with the original LS1 engine and then with the current LS2 402 stroker.

I do not think that it is a matter of breaking in the motor.

yea you cant use synthetic for break in. Must use conventional
I used valvaline 5/30 for break in for 1500 miles

I bet thats your problem

Any new news?? have you performed the recommended tests? what did you find was wrong? Are they standing behind their work if this is the issue? Just out of curiosity what CR motor do you have? Any dyno results?

^^^^^ I would also like to know. This set up sounds wicked.

Any new news???