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Heater core bypass
I was cruising down the highway and started smelling coolant so I started watching my temp guage and sure enough it shot right up to the red. I pulled off the highway and figured I probably had a raditor hose burst on me. I was surprised to find that it was acutally one of the hoses that goes to the heater core that had burst.
Now a busted hose isn't that big of a deal normally but this is one of those hoses that has metal crimping all along it then turns into metal as it goes back towards the firewall. The hose comes off the bottom of the water pump on the passenger side of the car runs about 8 inches then ends in a metal crimped section. Somehow the hose burst right at that metal crimped area.
There was no way for me to fix it on the spot and the highway patrol was up my a$$ to get the car off the highway so I had to call AAA and have them tow me to the nearest station. They called the dealer and the dealer told them they didn't make that hose assembly anymore. So the shop wanted $300to fabricate me a replacement hose. I was like F-that. I live in the desert and don't really use my heater anyways so I'll just bypass the heater core.
After a couple hours and several trips to the parts store I was able to frankenstein a bypass together but it doesnt look too great. The hose coming out of the water pump is 3/4 and has to loop up around to the top of the engine onto a 5/8 fitting, and I had to t- off to a 3/8 that goes to the throttle body(which is bypassed). Has anyone else done a bypass of the heater core starting at the water pump like I had to do? I'm looking for suggestions on how to make it look less crappy. Any help is appreciated.
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Oops forgot to mention this is in a 94 Z28 (LT1, auto trans)
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there was someone on here asking about this a month or so ago. I'll see if I can find the thread.
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Yeah I saw that one, but I can't bypass it up at the heater core because the hose burst before it gets to that point.
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If you are bypassing the tb then you shouldn't need a tee. You could probably stretch a 5/8 hose around the 3/4 fitting. If not use a 3/4 hose around the 5/8 and use a worm clamp instead of the factory spring clamps. You should be able to get it tight enough to seal. Another option is buy a length of hose to replace the entire piece that is damaged from the heater core to the water pump. Just leave some slack for the engine to move and make sure that it wont rub on anything.
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The reason I did the tee for the 3/8 even though the tb is already bypassed is the line that is supposed to go through the tb terminates into the radiator hose on the drivers side. Maybe if I just replaced that whole radiator hose and pick up one without that 3/8 line going into it then that would clean up the hose mess a lot.
