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I am thinking about supercharging my 2001 Trans Am Ws6 with SLP headers and exhaust on it. I have read good things from you guys on the ATI prochargers and i was wondering which one should i get?
Theres the D1-SC and then theres the P-1SC-1
Would i need to reinforce engine at all?
Any ideas would be great and a ruff estimate about how much this would cost.
Thanks!
If your buing new get the D1 - As it should only be a couple hundred more but better in the long run
AGREED!Quote:
Originally Posted by NVEEOUS
Here are a few basics:
First and foremost, forced induction is not for the faint of heart OR the "light of wallet"! HAHA!
As a general rule of thumb, the stock bottom end can generally handle 7 - 8 lbs of boost before you start running into serious durability issues. That being said, it's going to take some work to help ensure the rest of your car is setup to handle 400+ rwhp. (i.e. clutch, rear end, sub-frame connectors, etc.)
If you purchase a kit (new) and pay for someone else to install it and tune the car, it will likely cost you in the range of $6K - $10K (depending on what type of setup you're looking for). The ATI kits are generally well regarded...they deliver good power along with pretty good reliability and they're relatively easy to install.
Yeah, you should definitely swap out the stock 10 bolt rear end before buying a supercharger...better to have the piece of mind when you put on the supercharger than have your stock rear break on you....subframe connectors are much needed (as was mentioned before me) as well...it wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade suspension components either.....
I agree with just about everything "said" in this thread.....DEEP POCKETS!!!!.....As mentioned before, do the sfc', rear and clutch....1st....get ready for the setup and do it right....I did everything @ once, however, I know not everyone can afford to do this....Good luck and feel free to ask...As a matter-o-fact....ask alot of ?....and research is key....BTW It would be a good Idea to get an after-market balancer/pulley/damper too...tell the builder you want the crank keyed....(saved gm about .32 a block by just pressing and bolting them on....LOL...
Brad
Ok cool. Great advise guys.
I looked up the numbers, and SFCs are about $350, Bilstein/Eibach Shocks/Springs, Front/Rear are $644 and i already have a stage 3+ clutch.
How much would a better rear end cost? Like the ford 9 bolt i heard was a beast
If you keep sticky tires off of the car and don't race at the track, the 10 bolt will hold up much longer than posters in this thread will have you believe. Also, if you break a 10 bolt, you could get another 10-bolt for about $250. A comparable 9" with ABS/TCS(ASR) will be over 3 grand!Quote:
Originally Posted by TransAmlover90
Before the rest of you jump on me, I am on my second set of drag radials in my 6-speed car that makes well over 700 to the tire on pump gas. It has been there for nearly 100 uhhhhhh "challenges" on the highway, hundreds of power shifts under 16 pounds of boost (front mount turbo) and 9000 hard boosted street miles. My friend Adam ran his supercharged 6-SPEED car into the mid-low 10s for 2 years of racing on his 10-bolt. He went through a pile of clutches, but the rear held just fine.
Breaking them seems often to go hand in hand with driving style. Some people repeatedly tear them up while running no faster than 12s; same with drive shafts. My car has dead hooked a few times in second gear with the tires sticky and yet it holds up.
Don't get me wrong, sooner or later something will likely happen, and I am prepared for it; it just hasn't happened yet.
If you go with the D1SC, which is a $220 upgrade, you will also need to upgrade to the 8 rib pulley, which is $240. To use an 8 rib pulley, you will need a new balancer which is around $500.
It adds up fast!