first time at the drags with nitrous!!! =/..

first off i have a 01 trans am ws6 m6 with a nx wet kit. Okay ive never even ran at the drags before. But i just got the nitrous hooked up everything window switch on at 3000-6000. first run was a 75shot. like i said ive never ran my car at the drags or really from a dead stop. ran 13 something. traction was ok it was spinning some but not bad. but accidently hitt the break with my foot on the gas and was a sleeper at the line well thats what my buddy was sayin.. :dunno: im new at it. after that i put the 100 shot on. Okay THIS WAY A BIG MISTAKE WITH MY STREET TIRES. i made 2 runs id leave first time from 2500 then second at 2000. right when my nitrous came on ''3000rpms'' it was just pretty much a big ass burnout. i sihfted into 2and still just spinning like no other then i let out. then just curised down the track pissed off. im guessing my street tires are really shitty or something. it was spinning so much it wouldnt really go anywhere. it was hitting my redlimiter at this point. tryed one more run trying to ease more into it same shit happend. So i said screw it. The Clutch Was smellin some after that sense it hitt the rev limiter while the tires was spinning like no other. when i drove it home it seemed fine. Hope so :toetap:. So I need some DR tires V6 springs. Maybe a clutch? What all do i need To get this to hook. Because ive read that alot of ppl are running a 100shot easy without any traction probs on the track. Help me out here.. also yes im new at drag racing which is alot different then street racing.
What Kind of DR tires do you suggest that will fitt on my stock ws6 rims?
What else can i do to get traction.
and do you guys think my clutch is messed up?

Yes you need to add some junk yard V-6 springs first off. I would put some Mickey Thomson 275/40/17. If ti's your daily driver than don't they will wear quick.
Help your clutch out and put it on jack stands get a couple cans of brake clean and a drain pan. Spray it up into the bell housing area and you can spray the disc off which will aid in life. You can dis able the ignition and bump the motor over a little to rotate the clutch disc.

Were you making the HUGE mistake of driving through the water box and doing a burnout with your plane radials....... If so that is a Major issue why you spun so bad. Drive around the water box. Then back up stopping before the water and just pop the clutch at 2000-2500 just to spin the tires lightly then press the clutch right back in. You only want to clean them off. Passenger tires don't like heat.

The issue your having is another reason why 95% of my installs will be wired to a hand held button and not limited to the WOT switch. You could have pulsed you thumb on the button,or even let off the button and kept the gas floored just until it began to hook up and grabbed the kit again........

Anyways good luck.

What is your timing at do you know?

Get a good set of tires and that will help alot, im running Nitto 555DRs and dont have any traction problems when spraying. Also like LS2 said did you go through the water box? if so that is a big mistake to do with street tires, I dont even do it with my DRs. So tires, springs and a bit of a driver mod and should be gtg.

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Originally Posted by krug07

What Kind of DR tires do you suggest that will fitt on my stock ws6 rims?

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275s

no i went around the water. its when i hitt 3000rpms when the nitrous kicked in. then it was pretty much a all out spinning game which kept me almost at a dead stop just spinning.. really sucked. its my street tires and also im new at it everything. think my clutch is okay? it did smell some Should i be looking at getting a new clutch

I'm no nitrous expert but know a few things about racing, First off back down to the 75 shot till you can get more hours behind the wheel at the track and 100 is big hit with only a window switch as previously mentioned. And keep an eye that clutch even look at upgrading before it lets go if you plan on doing this regularly.

Again lack of experaince talking but possibly look at bumping the timing of the shot to 3500 to give you more room to to get moving, you will get less time on the juice but again the initial hit won't be as hard.

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Originally Posted by Orcus79

Again lack of experaince talking but possibly look at bumping the timing of the shot to 3500 to give you more room to to get moving, you will get less time on the juice but again the initial hit won't be as hard.

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x2 good idea I have mine set at 3200 plus its not so hard on the car.

i ve got a dumb question what will v6 springs do?

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Originally Posted by chuck4345

i ve got a dumb question what will v6 springs do?

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In short, they will soften the rear and help with traction.

You can also add about 3"-6" of length on the nitrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle or plate. It will soften the initial hit also.

You just need some good tires. There's people cutting good 60's on stock suspension all day long. Don't waste your time or money on v-6 springs

If you plan on going to the track a little more often, here's your best bet. Go find a set of salad shooters, and throw a set of 26x10.5 ET streets on there.

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Originally Posted by jmill96Z

You just need some good tires. There's people cutting good 60's on stock suspension all day long. Don't waste your time or money on v-6 springs

If you plan on going to the track a little more often, here's your best bet. Go find a set of salad shooters, and throw a set of 26x10.5 ET streets on there.

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Your obviously clueless without knowledge because if you were you wouldn't make that statement!!

Yeah don't wast your time on the $40 springs at the junkyard huh...........

And why would you waste your time with some bias ply ET Street's when the Drag Radials hook and drive better. But you already knew that.

Please listen to people that know not people that are confused. You could put a Pro Stock 31x16.5 with a stiff spring and still isn't going to weight transfer.

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Originally Posted by LS2Tuner

You can also add about 3"-6" of length on the nitrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle or plate. It will soften the initial hit also.

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i see you have some experience with NOS. also i dont purge

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Originally Posted by LS2Tuner

Your obviously clueless without knowledge because if you were you wouldn't make that statement!!

Yeah don't wast your time on the $40 springs at the junkyard huh...........

And why would you waste your time with some bias ply ET Street's when the Drag Radials hook and drive better. But you already knew that.

Please listen to people that know not people that are confused. You could put a Pro Stock 31x16.5 with a stiff spring and still isn't going to weight transfer.

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It seems that you're the one clueless on this one. The guy is spraying/launching on a straight street tire, and you're telling him to buy different springs




Nevermind. You are the LS1/LS2 nitrous and the drag racing god around here.:yourock:

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Originally Posted by jmill96Z

It seems that you're the one clueless on this one. The guy is spraying/launching on a straight street tire, and you're telling him to buy different springs


Nevermind. You are the LS1/LS2 nitrous and the drag racing god around here.:yourock:

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Yes because if the rear is actually soft enough to squat and allow weight transfer than the straight street tire will hook much better.
And yea we have a few cars that run low 9's that run better with the ET Drag Radial than the ET Street. You can drive through much more on the big end with the radial side wall. That is the reason why most of our classes out west here only run drag radials now.
We do 1.28 60 fts on a 275/60/15 drag radial. The best the car will do on ET Streets is 1.37. That is foot braking grabbing 250 from 1600-1800.

That $40 investment is the best cheap upgrade he can do to hook. You try to push the rear of any F body down that is a Z,SS,WS6 car they are stiff as a truck.

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Originally Posted by jmill96Z

It seems that you're the one clueless on this one. The guy is spraying/launching on a straight street tire, and you're telling him to buy different springs




Nevermind. You are the LS1/LS2 nitrous and the drag racing god around here.:yourock:

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Of course v6 springs will help weight transfer...ls2 tuner knows his shit too...i wouldn't question him.

i've been 11.97 @ 117 on street tires hooking just fine with a 150 shot and stock car. what it takes is good track prep and finesse of the throttle pedal. if you are spinning, then let out and get back in it. plain and simple. this is where people have their issues. when spinning, it's just a habit to stay in it with the thought they'll lose time if they let out. you waste more time spinning than letting out and getting back into it.

He also needs first gear lock out. No matter what he does if he hits a 100 shot in first he is gunna spin. First gear lock out will let you get rollin then ease into second. Do you even have a WOT switch ?

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Originally Posted by Danger731

No matter what he does if he hits a 100 shot in first he is gunna spin.

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Definitely not true. Yes, his tires might be crap, but with some adjustments he can and SHOULD be spraying thru first!

Now we are getting back on one of MY soapbox's.:soapbox:

This is why I ALWAYS wire in a hand held button. As Mr.23 has stated about spinning and getting out of it. With a hand held button I can keep the suspension under a load with the motor still being WFO and I can pulse the kit with my thumb. As for the first gear lockout Eagle is right about that being un true. That initial out of the gate gain is where you see the most gain from the bottle period. So if you are not grabbing your unit out of the gate you are loosing much of the gain you could accomplish.

All it takes is a working combo. The tires are sooooo great now we have a car that does 1.28 60 ft's on a 275/60/15 drag radial foot braking it. Thats right NO transbrake just grabbing 250 shot from 1600 rpm. And yes that 3000 rpm minimum is BS for a safety blanket. Anyone of my cars I tuned myself I'll grab the nitrous from idle and have NO issue's.