Center force Clutches

http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php...oducts_id=2435

This is the clutch that I am looking at putting in my gto. I am currently running 380rwhp and 360rwtq I will soon have those same numbers + 100. So I want a clutch that wont give up on me. I have had friends in the past have some bad luck with centerforce, as far as the clutch braking then they act like it was all your fault and not their product and then not replace the part or refund a dime of your money. This however it in was the past and I was wondering if any of you know of someone running this clutch in there 450rwhp + car and have good luck with it.

Thanks for any comments

Don't forget to have your flywheel resurfaced, IMO I would wait till it goes out, If I am not mistaken the clutch in the GTO is a little more "beefy" than the ones in ealier yrs f-bods. I think it is a z06 clutch, However I could be wrong have been before, I am about 470ish @ the rear wheels and I have had 0 problems, when it starts to slip I will be going with textrellia(sp).....Good luck

centerFARCE. they blow. Mine is like 2 pieces of silk rubbing together-slips great, but no grab for hard launches. It's nice for street driving. I like the spec 3 for hard launches

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by red_04_gto

http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php...oducts_id=2435

This is the clutch that I am looking at putting in my gto. I am currently running 380rwhp and 360rwtq I will soon have those same numbers + 100. So I want a clutch that wont give up on me. I have had friends in the past have some bad luck with centerforce, as far as the clutch braking then they act like it was all your fault and not their product and then not replace the part or refund a dime of your money. This however it in was the past and I was wondering if any of you know of someone running this clutch in there 450rwhp + car and have good luck with it.

Thanks for any comments

---

DON'T DO IT!!!
I would put the LS7 clutch that you can get with a billet flywheel for a little more before I would run that junk! I think they are still on sale at another site just for GTO's from a sponser.
I would look into a McLeod ifit was me.
http://www.mcleodind.com/index.html
:goodluck:

Thanks for the advice guys I figured center force was still junk. I will probably go with the Spec 2+ or Spec 3 clutch depending on how bad they are for street drivability.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by red_04_gto

Thanks for the advice guys I figured center force was still junk. I will probably go with the Spec 2+ or Spec 3 clutch depending on how bad they are for street drivability.

---

For the money you'll spend on the Spec I would buy a Mcleod!!
If you do a couple different worded searches with our toolbar we have discussed Specs issues in vast detail before also.

The dual disc RST Street Twin has came down a couple hundred in the past year or so. For the $650 or so it CAN'T be beat!! It has LESS pedal effort than stock,small light weight 9" discs,and can handle 850hp.

I would save the money and buy one of those that way you only buy one clutch! You won't hurt it and it won't hurt your left leg either.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=847124

http://www.mcleodind.com/images/App_...e002_group.jpg
http://www.mcleodind.com/application...treetTwin.html

http://youtube.com/watch?v=qYP8vpXcT2U&feature=related

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=795970

http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/gener...reet-twin.html

maybe try a borg n beck type setup instead of diaphram type. you'll have to use a little more leg but shouldn't slip

http://www.astroperformance.com/prod...071fa9805b748d

I am about to get this clutch the olny thing that I am concerned with now is if I should get a new flywheel or if I am good to go If I just have my slp billet steel flywheel resurfaced? If it is resurfaced should I go ahead and buy a .150shim to increase the throw on the clutch to ensure a complete disengagement when shifting? $780 is about the best deal that I have come across for the RST setup is this a good deal in your opionion? Any other suggestions you have will be much appriciated. Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LS2Tuner

For the money you'll spend on the Spec I would buy a Mcleod!!
If you do a couple different worded searches with our toolbar we have discussed Specs issues in vast detail before also.

The dual disc RST Street Twin has came down a couple hundred in the past year or so. For the $650 or so it CAN'T be beat!! It has LESS pedal effort than stock,small light weight 9" discs,and can handle 850hp.

I would save the money and buy one of those that way you only buy one clutch! You won't hurt it and it won't hurt your left leg either.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=847124


http://www.mcleodind.com/application...treetTwin.html

http://youtube.com/watch?v=qYP8vpXcT2U&feature=related

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=795970

http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/gener...reet-twin.html

---

Since your on the East Coast. Here is a link for $719 and they will drop ship.
I was on the phone with McLeod on Fri. and they have the hubs now so clutch should be in stock. I had one on backorder for the last 3 weeks.


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

You might give Jegs a call also and get quicker drop shiping due to there new 1-2 shipping.
1-800-345-4545

The flywheel should be fine if it hasn't been turned already without buying the shim.
You could call McLeod and ask them there tec. line is option 5 after you call them (714) 630-2764.

After having read 30 some threads on ls1 clutches I am starting to think that the ls7 deal thats out there might be the way I want to go. I can get everthing I need for just south of $700
New LS2 flywheel
New slave cylinder w, throw out bearing,
the clutch, pressure plate and pilot bearing, If I get all that with the Mcloed I am going to pay right at 1400. So unless highly advised other wise I think I am going to join the ls7 crew. What do you think?

Thanks alot for your time and effort in helping with this clutch issue,

James

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LS2Tuner

Since your on the East Coast. Here is a link for $719 and they will drop ship.
I was on the phone with McLeod on Fri. and they have the hubs now so clutch should be in stock. I had one on backorder for the last 3 weeks.


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

You might give Jegs a call also and get quicker drop shiping due to there new 1-2 shipping.
1-800-345-4545

The flywheel should be fine if it hasn't been turned already without buying the shim.
You could call McLeod and ask them there tec. line is option 5 after you call them (714) 630-2764.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by red_04_gto

After having read 30 some threads on ls1 clutches I am starting to think that the ls7 deal thats out there might be the way I want to go. I can get everthing I need for just south of $700
New LS2 flywheel
New slave cylinder w, throw out bearing,
the clutch, pressure plate and pilot bearing, If I get all that with the Mcloed I am going to pay right at 1400. So unless highly advised other wise I think I am going to join the ls7 crew. What do you think?

Thanks alot for your time and effort in helping with this clutch issue,

James

---

Your trying to compare apples and oranges. The LS7 clutch by NO means is anywhere near a 800+ rwhp clutch.
Also I'm confused about why you want to replace things that are not needed.
You said you already had a SLP billet flywheel......... Is there something wrong with it? And the slave cylinder is bad you have now?
McLeod designed this clutch to work with the stock flywheel to save money. It also has less pedal effort than stock so I wouldn't mess with your slave unless you have had prior issues.
If you do the dual I'm sure you could enjoys YEARS of nitrous abuse with drag radials. We can almost hot lap cars on test and tune days with no clutch issues that is NOT possible with a single disc clutch.

Ok, well then that being said I guess I can take another look. There are so many freaking factors in this, Looking for the best deal being one of those factors, I am still not sure what to do. I will continue to do a more research and then try spending my money as wisely as possible. Thanks once again for all your input. No there is nothing wrong with my flywheel that I know of, but I have not removed it from the car yet to take a good look at it. I was just worried that if I take anything off of it that it will effect how soon my clutch engages. There is about 50k on the clutch and flywheel thats in the car and 30k on the slave. The way it is now it engages about an inch or two off the floor when its cold, but when I really get on it, it will not disengage for anything. Tell me what you think.

Thanks,

James

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by red_04_gto

Ok, well then that being said I guess I can take another look. There are so many freaking factors in this, Looking for the best deal being one of those factors, I am still not sure what to do. I will continue to do a more research and then try spending my money as wisely as possible. Thanks once again for all your input. No there is nothing wrong with my flywheel that I know of, but I have not removed it from the car yet to take a good look at it. I was just worried that if I take anything off of it that it will effect how soon my clutch engages. There is about 50k on the clutch and flywheel thats in the car and 30k on the slave. The way it is now it engages about an inch or two off the floor when its cold, but when I really get on it, it will not disengage for anything. Tell me what you think.

Thanks,

James

---

Sounds like a wore out weak diaphram clutch. Thats what happens when you rev the motor high it can't over come that force due to the fact it has lost finger pressure and needs replaced.
The flywheel shims are only needed if you had to make excessive cuts on the flywheel. I have only used one in the 16 years I've been messing with this shit and that was 14 years ago......:hahano:
The slaves can be VERY tricky some times to get ALL the air out which effects there performance. I recommend pressure bleeding them with the correct tool.
If you have mot had your flywheel resurfaced before since you purchased it I wouldn't even think about that shim.
:goodluck: