Throwing AIR code, how to pass inspection?

OK, so I took my car in to get inspected the other day and it had a SES on. The guy I took it to also inspected it last year with the SES on and passed it. Well this year he said I need to get it taken care of.

He told me the SES code said it was P04xx for the AIR injection system. I don't remember what the last two numbers were, other than that if I had to guess I thought it was 0400.

So, look, I know I'd be a lot better off if I knew the real code, but I'm 100% certain he said air injection system, so I'm guessing its definitely one of these:

DTC P0410 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System
DTC P0411 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System
DTC P0412 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Solenoid Relay Control Circuit Bank 1
DTC P0413 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Open
DTC P0414 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Shorted
DTC P0415 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Malfunction
DTC P0416 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Open
DTC P0417 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Shorted
DTC P0418 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Relay Control Circuit Bank 1
DTC P0419 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Relay Control Circuit Bank 2

When I picked up my car yesterday after him telling me I'd need to take it to a GM dealer to get it fixxed to pass inspection the SES was off. I drove it home in the evening 12 miles, to work this morning 20 miles, out to lunch 2-3 miles each way, and then when I was about 30% of the way home today, it came back on.

Its my understanding that the AIR system is something for ventilating the cats to keep them cool, and this afternoon was much warmer than yesterday, and I was sitting in traffic, when the lite came back on.

So my question, to anyone who might have any advice they're willing to share is... is there anything I might be able to check out myself before I have to take it to a GM dealer, and spend $85 on a diagnostic to tell me what I already know, and then overpay for parts and labor?

Since the SES is on just take it to some place like auto zone, they'll read codes for free, then post it. Might be something as simple as a clogged air check valve.

If you have already have made several attemps to correct the faulty AIR system and you aren't having any luck--then i would just take it to a local tuner and have him,turn off the MIL lights and the DTC enablers for the exact code that it is throwing--The light won't come on again- for that problem--ever--and it is probably a false code anyway so it won't affect emmisions or performance--Where we live you can get codes turned off for about $50--You don't need a whole tune---

had same problem. I replaced the air check valves and it didn't go away. New air pumps are around $250. so what I did is i pulled the air pump and the plunger that opens and closes was all carboned up so i sprayed some carb cleaner into it let it dry the followed with some wd40. That was 5000 miles ago and i havent had the code come back yet. cheap and easy thing to try before you go spending money to chase the problem.

Need the exact code-as stated Auto Zone /Advance does free readings. The dealerships and other shops charge for the diagnosis-in anticipation of the repair. Then they have to back it up with a warranty on the repair, in other words they're not guessing or they have to repair it again. Time is money at a business. You don't work for free do you?

I'll get the exact code and repost later today hopefully. Does anyone know if Pep Boys will read a code for free, the only autozone I can think of is a bit of a drive for me.

Probably-most of these chain store do-it -yourself places have jumped on that bandwagon.

Go to AutoZone.com, they should have a store locator button using your zip code.

Here's what is being thrown now.

DTC P1416 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Bank 2


Any suggestions what I might do?

Just what I thought, happens a lot. Clogged passenger side air check valve most likely - had the same code a couple years ago - fixed mine. Easy, pick one up at the parts store and replace it yourself. GM PN on mine was 12565503. It's the black "disc shaped" valve coming off the air pipe/header and connects to a hose - just above the #4 coil pack. Part is not expensive...

I'll take a look and let you know. When I replace it will the code just "go away" or do i have to go and get it reset?

I just cleared mine with a scan tool, the SES will go off by itself after a few cycles - but stay in history for about 40? cycles. If you look up the code at gearchatter.com for your year it'll tell you exactly when the MIL will go back off. Since you're up for inspection I wouldn't reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery/removing fuses method because it'll also reset all the emissions readiness tests, possibly requiring several OBDII drive cycles to get them back.

does anyone know what the p0410 code is for i keedp throwing that one and can't figure it out

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Originally Posted by tblu92

If you have already have made several attemps to correct the faulty AIR system and you aren't having any luck--then i would just take it to a local tuner and have him,turn off the MIL lights and the DTC enablers for the exact code that it is throwing--The light won't come on again- for that problem--ever--and it is probably a false code anyway so it won't affect emmisions or performance--Where we live you can get codes turned off for about $50--You don't need a whole tune---

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Here is the problem with that analogy, In the state of California, you have to have your vehicle smogged, it is the law, if you do not correct the problem with the vehicle, the code is stored in the PCM memory "WHETHER OR NOT THE LIGHT IS ON". After you correct the problem and clear the code to shut the light off, "THE CODE STILL STAYS IN THE MEMORY" for at least 2 driving cycles (I do not know how long the cycles are), which I believe are milage driven.

In conclusion, if you do not correct the problem, you wont pass smog, if you do correct the problem, you need to go through 2 driving cycles before getting the vehicle reinspected.

SteveC :)

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Originally Posted by 2000dreambird

does anyone know what the p0410 code is for i keedp throwing that one and can't figure it out

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Hey I always get that code...I was talking to a friend of mines and he told me when it rains sometime rain (water) get's in and seats on the senor I can set a clock that after it rains I get in 2 hours into driving .....I just get it cleared and keep on moving

Posted this up the other day in response to a similar inquiry:

Okay -- how to diagnose your secondary air system:

First thing to check is if the pump runs after cold start up. Over the top of your driver side wheel well is a hose. Disconnect the hose at the union and start your car. There should be air blowing from the hose which runs up from the front end. If not, you'll need to check fuses and relays to ensure that there is power to the pump. If power checks out, but the pump is still not running then you will need to inspect the pump. It is located in front of the driver side wheel house and is accessed from underneath by removing the splash shield. Check connections and both the inlet and outlet hoses for any blockages. Remember -- the pump only runs on cold start up for a short period of time.

If that all checks out -- you then need to check if the air is flowing to the exhaust manifolds. On each side of the engine there is a tube bolted to the manifold. This runs up to a check valve onto which is clamped a rubber hose. Disconnect each clamp and pull the hose. Again, on cold start up you should have air blowing from the hoses. If not, you need to check the solenoid and diverter valve that are located on top of the engine, driver side, to the rear. The electric solenoid allows a vacuum signal to open the diverter valve such that air flows to the manifolds.

If this checks out, then the most likely culprit is that the check valves or manifold tubes are bad, or simply plugged up. This is what was wrong with our car. Two new check valves and all was good. Good luck.

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Originally Posted by 2001NBMZ28

Just what I thought, happens a lot. Clogged passenger side air check valve most likely - had the same code a couple years ago - fixed mine. Easy, pick one up at the parts store and replace it yourself. GM PN on mine was 12565503. It's the black "disc shaped" valve coming off the air pipe/header and connects to a hose - just above the #4 coil pack. Part is not expensive...

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hey u have a pic of where this valve is at?

Follow the pipe up from the front of each exhaust manifold. The black canister (if stock) screwed onto the pipe is the check valve. Should be a rubber hose attached to the back of the valve.

so i am changing the hose right

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Originally Posted by War Theory

so i am changing the hose right

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The hose is held on by a black plastic clip. Remove the hose and see if you can unscrew the valve from the pipe assembly. On our car, I ended up unbolting the pipe from the manifold (2 - 10mm bolts on each pipe) and had to heat them up with a propane torch to unscrew them.

Be very careful, you do not want to snap the bolts off in the manifold trying to remove the pipe. Maybe your valves will not be quite as tight as ours. Other thing to be aware of is if you buy the valve from Autozone, they actually have 3 different suppliers. Each valve has a different look -- some silver, some green, some black. They had to order ours twice to get a matched set that I liked.