I remember seeing on here somewhere a picture or someones post about their stock LT1 being dyno'd. I believe it was a 1994. I am just curious as to what those numbers were is all.
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I remember seeing on here somewhere a picture or someones post about their stock LT1 being dyno'd. I believe it was a 1994. I am just curious as to what those numbers were is all.
my 97 dynoed 260hp and 290tq if that helps. its a m6 with 3.42's
Was that stock or with the muffler/intake mentioned in your sig?
that was stock, m6 with 3.42's (stock gears)
nice:yup:Quote:
Originally Posted by ice97ta
thanks, ya it suprised a lot of people.
Seems like LT1 numbers vary as much as LS1 numbers do. I guess it depends on what day of the week the engine was assembled :yup: . When I had my 96 Z28 vert it dynoed at 245rwhp and 300rwt. This was with an A4 with 3.23 gears and 40,xxx on the clock. This was the baseline before I started modding it. It ran 14.20's @ 99 in AZ @ Firebird stone stock.
i found this one: http://69.141.234.60/OrgDyno.jpg think it was a 96 m6
Those numbers look good. I wish I had a standard trans in my car, but, its an auto, unfortunately.
i feel real dumb but how do u read the dyno shit
the bottom of the scale is the rpm... so as you move to the right, thats the engine going faster and faster. the scale on the left is the horsepower the engine is making at the rpm, and on the right is the torque scale. usually its labeled or color coated, but there are 2 lines per dyno run, one for horsepower and one for torque.
on that particular dyno sheet, he ran the car 3 times, so there are 3 different sets, or 6 measurement lines (3 for hp, 3 for torque). On this sheet, the horsepower measurements are the lines that start at the very bottom left and go up steadily... the lines that start high and trickle down are the torque... where the hp lines and the troque lines intersect is where you know what rpm the motor is getting good :) right around there is the sweet spot where the powerband is where you want to keep the motor for max power while shifting and running up the gears.
they do some color coding for the 3 different runs too on this one, which is listed on the top of the print out. each run was a different color line on the graph so you can tell how each one went individually. the first run was blue, the 2nd red, 3rd green.
since its kinda hard to read acuratly sometimes by eye, the computer usually generates a list of the max hp/torque levels reached for each run... these are the two numbers most people car about when bragging about thier car on the street..."yo my car dynoed at 300 rear wheel horsepower!" they got that (if they arent bullshitting) from the highest peak of the horsepower scale line. follow the horsepower line to the very highest it goes, then run your finger to the left horsepower scale and you get what that number is. because you might not be able to tell sometimes by just eyeing it, the computer printed out those 3 lines in the center of the printout that tell you what the max power levels were for each of the 3 runs, in this case 255.9/293.9 hp/trq for the first run, and 251.2/291.8 and 262.7/294.5 for the 2nd and third run.
other then finding out the peak power levels, the MOST important thing about a dyno is that it tells you exactly where the motor is making power at any given rpm. one motor might make 175 horsepower at 3500rpm and make over 300 at 5000rpm, and another 200hp at 3500rpm but only 280 at 5000rpm. which car is faster? on the street, the first car looks like its going to be more powerfull since it dynoed at 300hp peak and the other only 280, but i'm bettin that the 2nd car is going to be ahead a bit becuase it makes MORE power FASTER then the other car. now thats just an example and there are hundreds of other factors, but when tuning a car, the peak numbers arent as important as the individual results on the entire scale.
you can also use a dyno do diagnos hiccups in tuning, perhaps the hp curve goies up at a steady rate, then flattens out a bit, then increases again. this isnt efficient, somethings probably wrong... but now you know at what rpm it happens at so now you can go in and see if its the timing, fuel, air etc thats causing the hiccup.
thats about it for a dyno graph... its a cool little thing. you can download software dynos that estimate a dyno run by calculating airflow etc. by entering in data such as engine volume, flow, compression, boost if applicable, head flow rates, fuel flow etc. they are fairly accurate, but are usufull beause you can custom change things right in the computer and see results without doing the work. when i was looking at what cam to get, i entered all the data in and compared which cams did what kinda power where in the power band (rpm scale). i have a stock bottom end and its a 96, so i didnt want a cam that was going to make peak power at 6500rpm, too fast for my comfort... so i found a cam that had a lower peak, which cost me some horsepower, but down low in the rpm range, makes more hp and alot more torque then the other cams that made more power at high rpm... and i did it all in 10 minutes without tearing down the motor and dynoing each cam which obviously could have cost thousands :D