Printable View
I have a 98 trans am, 90k on it, WS6 hood was added,no cats, y-pipe to a flowmaster(shitty i know but it was free), 3 in y pipe and 3 in outlets, SLP lid k&n filter, and the rest is stock.
I was wanting advice on making this car faster, and in what order?
Recommendations on headers, cam, exhaust, tranny cooler,shift kit(auto),torque convertor....etc....whats the best bang i can get for my buck. I would like to hear some opinions from people that have gone through this process.....
thanks alot
3000-3500 rpm stall, long tube headers, hooker catback, ls6 intake, sub frame connectors, cam kit ( you need to figure if you want the car to be street friendly or just a weekend warrior).
when you figure what the car will be, can give better advice reguarding cam.
I think I would want it to be street friendly because I dont want it to be unbearingly loud....I think the cam would be the last thing I would do...quick quest? what does the rpm stall do?Quote:
Originally Posted by nhraformula
The best bang for you buck is the stall convertor. Knock .5 off in one chunk. Headers are a great mod also. I would just do everything on your list then add everything from nhraformula's list to it. :D You can have headers and still not be real loud. I run basically the same exhaust set up you do except I have longtubes and have had zero issues with the po-po and with my cutout closed the car really isn't that loud. Research a cam. You can find a cam for almost any situation.
definately stall converter, put a 4300 in mine personal, I would probably go a little smaller if I did it again.
When i had stock motor in mine- I had a 3500 stall that was really street friendly. I would do headers definately- I used to have jet hot 1 3/4's and they sounded good and are reasonably priced, my recommendation would be kooks but they are more $. Also a LS6 intake manifold. As for a cam that all depends on your goals for the car- so would need more info to give any advice.
As far as suspension stuff- SFCs were already mentioned, and also LCAs and relocation brackets, and torque arm for starters.
Hope this helps!
-Ashley
I vote for 3500~3800RPM stall with a 2.0~2.3 STR and a set of headers. The stall multiplies the torque you have to get you off the line in a hurry. It's kinda of like slipping the clutch in a manual to bring you up into the power band, only better. Sticky tires will be a wise investment if you plan on racing. :)
Stall and a tune/
i always see people say the LS6 intake manifold for the first mods. how much power does it really give?
Its worth about 15RWHP on a stock LS1, over the standard LS1 manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by biga0206
SLP has the LS6 manifold and kit for $370, I'm planning on buying one soon :)
Yea, I like my stall, but if you want to drive a little relaxed, its sucks... Full throttle is nice though
Nitros is better than any thing :):firedevil:
how's gas mileage with a 3200-3500 stall? is it much worse than stock?
WOW 3000-3500 on a stock cam..........? Can you say high 14's!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by nhraformula
Don't even consider this advice UNLESS you want to slow your car down!!!
Maybe a real 2200 on the stock cam at the most. But you already stated you wanted the best bang for the buck... So I would not start there.
I'de change the rear springs so it will hook,then subframe conn.,then a nitrous kit,and then a computer tune. And with a pair of drag radials that = a 12 second car ALL day.
I have no clue why you would say that.?.?.? My '02 Z28 picked up 4-tenths in the 1/4 mile because of a ~3500 stall. Peak torque in the LS1's is over 4,000 rpm. Why wouldn't you want the stall speed closer to that???Quote:
Originally Posted by LS2Tuner
Yeah I've put 4.88 gears in a stock camed car too.....? And it picked up et also but that doesn't make the combo correct!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
But if you want to run a 3500 conv. with a stock cam feel free. I'd NEVER do it.Your loosing too much of the tq curve. You need more than just the peak.
I'm going very low 11's right now in my Goat with the stock convertor on 17"s but what do I know.
All I can tell you fastassbird05 if you do chose to put a loser con. call the manufacture and tell them exactly what you have and I highly dought they recommend anything near 3500rpm for your application.
Low 11's on the bottle though, right? That's almost a standard for LSx motors. I'd bet you'd be in the 10's if you had the right converter.Quote:
Originally Posted by LS2Tuner
I have yet to hear one person who has a stall'd, stock cam'd engine complain about the stall slowing them down or even keeping them at the same performance level. Yes, the converter might be looser and you might lose a little on the top end. But, the torque multiplication you get on the bottom end more than makes up for it. I saw most of my gains in the first 60-feet (3 tenths). But hey, what does hundreds of f-body owners' experience account for??? You run low 11's... :worship:
Well I have more tq than I can use now.:Ot: But as soon as I get rid of this wheel hop I'll be in the 10's with true bolt ons. I'm doing 1.6 60's now on 17".Quote:
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
You say that's almost a standard with LS's. Not here in AZ there is 20 cars out at the track every week on the bottle that are barely breaking 11's let alone 11 teens. Must be different in Mich. cause it sure isn't that common out here on the west coast.
I gained .4 with a 3500 stall on the stock cam. I don't pretend to be a stall expert but I can see no way anyone could put a stall in and lose ET. It basically puts the motor in the sweet spot and keeps it there with shift extensions. I can see maybe no needing a 3500 but if you have plans for a cam in the future why not just do the stall once? Like I say, I'm not an expert by any means but I just don't see how a stall could ever be a bad decision.