hesatation problem finally solved

:vodka: Ive had a big hesitation problem for two years.The ole ls1 would just about fall on its face between every gear and was running lean.Id done alot of investagation and asked alot of questions and kept checking back on the board and finally blue sky. My kn filter had oiled the maf,well Id thought this earlier but had tried to clean it with alcohol and a q tip,it didnt work so I thought something else was the problem.Then id read about cleaning it with crc electrical contact cleaner-- vooowallla--Id forgot how much toqure the ole ls1 had,and it now knows when to shift gears, its amazing.Back to paper filters for me.Now my only problem is that from day 1 and i bought this new it has always hit the rev limiter before shifting.I ran a 13.4 with it hitting the rev limiter 4 times.Any body know why this is? It has an a4 with 323 gears and i run it in 3 and let it do the shifting although it doesnt mater whether I shift or it shifts on its own. 2000ta 66668 miles ftra

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Originally Posted by drdon51

:vodka: Ive had a big hesitation problem for two years.The ole ls1 would just about fall on its face between every gear and was running lean.Id done alot of investagation and asked alot of questions and kept checking back on the board and finally blue sky. My kn filter had oiled the maf,well Id thought this earlier but had tried to clean it with alcohol and a q tip,it didnt work so I thought something else was the problem.Then id read about cleaning it with crc electrical contact cleaner-- vooowallla--Id forgot how much toqure the ole ls1 had,and it now knows when to shift gears, its amazing.Back to paper filters for me.Now my only problem is that from day 1 and i bought this new it has always hit the rev limiter before shifting.I ran a 13.4 with it hitting the rev limiter 4 times.Any body know why this is? It has an a4 with 323 gears and i run it in 3 and let it do the shifting although it doesnt mater whether I shift or it shifts on its own. 2000ta 66668 miles ftra

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Run it in OD. I had that problem before.

I my be wrong but the last thing you want to do is run the car in OD.3rd is the best gear I have found to race in. it has alot more pull through the gears.As for shifting the gears, you need to put it in 3rd and let it do it's own thing. you will find that it can do it better than we can.

where do you get that electronics cleaner?

radioshack, I'v found that my best runs have been in OD.
J

This might be a stupid question, but I also have had some hesitation since I pulled my car out of storage. I thought it was old gas, but I am on a new tank with the same issue and I do have a K & N filter, have had it for years.

How do you clean the MAF?? Is this something that can be easily done?

Thanks in advance,
Matt

You can buy MAF cleaner by CRC. Get access to the cleaner and spray - just like WD-40. 2 band clamps on an LS-1 and you are good to go. No need to remove it either.

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Originally Posted by drdon51

:vodka: Ive had a big hesitation problem for two years.The ole ls1 would just about fall on its face between every gear and was running lean.Id done alot of investagation and asked alot of questions and kept checking back on the board and finally blue sky. My kn filter had oiled the maf,well Id thought this earlier but had tried to clean it with alcohol and a q tip,it didnt work so I thought something else was the problem.Then id read about cleaning it with crc electrical contact cleaner-- vooowallla--Id forgot how much toqure the ole ls1 had,and it now knows when to shift gears, its amazing.Back to paper filters for me.Now my only problem is that from day 1 and i bought this new it has always hit the rev limiter before shifting.I ran a 13.4 with it hitting the rev limiter 4 times.Any body know why this is? It has an a4 with 323 gears and i run it in 3 and let it do the shifting although it doesnt mater whether I shift or it shifts on its own. 2000ta 66668 miles ftra

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I ordered mine too I have an A4 SS 2002 and mine does the same when running the track I thought I was going to blow it up but eventually it shifts haha its a beast man I love the fucking car and wouldnt get rid of it ever

I also have a K&N filter.. and now that you mention it .. it does have some hesitation I have about 60000 miles on it long road trips across country .. what are you sayin you did to get it back to normal? Cleaned the MAF with what?

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Originally Posted by Street Fighter

I my be wrong but the last thing you want to do is run the car in OD.3rd is the best gear I have found to race in. it has alot more pull through the gears.As for shifting the gears, you need to put it in 3rd and let it do it's own thing. you will find that it can do it better than we can.

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It can't have "more pull through the gears" since they're the same gears whether you're in 3 or (O). The only gear it will stay in longer is 3 possibly but you would have to figure out whether the car wants to shift to 4th gear before the finish line and if you are getting better times and trap speeds by holding that shift off. I found early on that my car would shift itself at a higher rpm then if I tried to shift it manually. It will "idiot override" holding it in gear sooner (lower rpm) than it will wind itself at full throttle. My best runs were in (O). 13.44 @ 105.75 and 13.52 @ 107.43. Not bad for a stock 2.73 geared car.

I ran a K&N filter in my car for years until my mechanic found that the MAF was fouled with oil from the filter. The car had developed a bad miss and crappy idle. He hates oiled filters and told me to just swap back to a paper element after he cleaned the MAF. To be honest, the K&N was a fricken mess to clean and I probably did put it back on the car with too much oil in the gauze. Paper filter is so much easer to deal with and I'm convinced the difference between the K&N and the paper is neglegible with regard to air flow.

clean it with "crc electrical contact cleaner"

To clean the MAF is it just unclamp the airbox Lid and spray on the MAF wires? Or do I need to unclamp the MAF from the Throttle Body also?

Is it that simple? I am assuming it woudl be best to wait for the CRC cleaner to dry befopre starting car? The CRC Cleaner will it hurt the Throttle Body when I put everythign back together and run the car?

I don't think my K&N is over oiled but I would like to clean the MAF wires just in case they have got oil on them if it is simple and harmless as it seems?

Thank you in Advance
Eddie

the reason i ditched my k&n filter ;)

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Originally Posted by funlman

To clean the MAF is it just unclamp the airbox Lid and spray on the MAF wires? Or do I need to unclamp the MAF from the Throttle Body also?

Is it that simple? I am assuming it woudl be best to wait for the CRC cleaner to dry befopre starting car? The CRC Cleaner will it hurt the Throttle Body when I put everythign back together and run the car?

I don't think my K&N is over oiled but I would like to clean the MAF wires just in case they have got oil on them if it is simple and harmless as it seems?

Thank you in Advance
Eddie

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In my experience, yes. The stuff dries very quickly and any puddles are gone in 10-20 seconds, so drying isn't a big deal. The only MAF I removed was the one on my Z28, and only then because I had it off for the FlowPac installation. My beater maxima and my '02 K2500HD 8.1L have MAFs that are easy to get to, so I didn't remove them either. My wife's Pathfinder may be a different story. if you spray enough in there with good access, it should get the back side without removing the MAF. The Cleaner is probably little more than contact cleaner - probably either a plastic-safe alternative or lower concentration - than standard contact cleaner.

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Originally Posted by wolfews6

This might be a stupid question, but I also have had some hesitation since I pulled my car out of storage. I thought it was old gas, but I am on a new tank with the same issue and I do have a K & N filter, have had it for years.

How do you clean the MAF?? Is this something that can be easily done?

Thanks in advance,
Matt

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Well, I finally got a chance to clean the MAF. When I opened the filter area on the Ram Air I could see how black the screen was. It is now clean and running like the champ it was when I bought it 6 years ago. :happy:

Thanks everyone for your help in solving this maintenance type issue. I had never cleaned the MAF and the K & N has been in it for over 5 yrs and reoiled a couple of times.

Matt

CRC industries just released sensorkleen. It is Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner.

It works, I just used it and I talked about in another post.

I gotta add my 2 cents, I just tossed my K&N and will never go back, the crc mass sensor cleaner is great...
J

Well I vote for the K&N I've been running them in my cars for over 10 years not and never had a problem. If you follow the instructions on the back of the recharge box you will never have a problem. It specifically says to oil one pass per pleat let sit for 10 minutes and only oil white spots. If you follow that there is NO way you can put so much oil on it that it will suck into the MAF and dirty it. I have friends who have done that but they just didn't READ the instructions.:whip: