I Call BS! 5-min fuel pump swap with hand tools?

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The Racetronix F98 fuel pump module is a direct-fit replacement for the 1998 factory GM pump assembly. No modification is required to the factory sending unit. Simply remove the old plastic pump assembly and put in the new one. Installation of the Racetronix F98 fuel pump module can be easily done in under 5 minutes with basic hand tools.

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Looking at a fuel pump replacement and came up with the Racetronix. Lo and behold, it says it's a simple 5-minute drop in (with no reference to the trap door mod).

Can anyone confirm this or know what the heck they're talking about? This is from the product info at Tick.

LOL...it all depends on the start point.

With the trap door I can access my pump in 2 mins and that is being careful pulling the assembly out. I've had a lot of practice with it this yr.

It really isn't that long of a process.

Now as a fellow 98 f body here to let you know that if that o ring gasket is torn or just worn out you can only get it from the dealership for about $14. I had to deal with it here this past Aug. Make sure you get the pump for the 98. And also if you are doing the wire harness from them then add another hour to 2, because of the connections and repining.

If you have any issues pm me I'll try to talk you through it.

Ugh... I would probably need to do the cut out. If I do get the wiring harness, I'll probably have the shop do the install. I don't like mucking around with the "systems" on the car. I botched the catch can install (due to instructions that went over my head... so now I have a can bolted to my head that isn't even hooked up... LOL!)

And I'd for sure get the O-ring just because. After my experience with the TB install (bad O-ring), my policy to just replace everything that I can when I gain access.

The wire harness install isn't too difficult. It's only PITA is the repining. You have to push 2 pins/wires out of the stock harness and push in the 2 from the new harness. You'll also have to do it for the pump. That one needs to be very careful because the plastic is thin and can easily break if you get too aggressive with it. DO NOT SPLICE IN, YOU MUST RE-PIN IT. Splicing in can create a short in a tank full of gas = BOOM!

Cutting the trap door isn't too bad either. Just make sure you cut shallow, meaning just let enough (>1/8") of the cutoff wheel cut through the metal but not so much that you cut a hose or the tank itself.

If you look for pics of the trap door look for pics on 98's. 99-02 the tank sits different then the 98's. I added a 1" strip along the piece I cut & rivet together then I use duct tape to create a seal from vapors but lets me pull open if need be.

Thanks for all the tips, Scott. :bounce:

No problem, it's what this forum is for.

I had the racetronix fuel pump. 5 minutes? maybe if you the whole pump is out and you have done a few of them. I tried dropping the tank and I couldn't get it out because of the metal neck. I ended up doing a nice trap door. Make sure you inspect everything before you put it back. I had a pinhole on the flex tubing and was causing a leak. I had to pull everything out and seal it.

Racetronix does sell the replacement plastic tubes and those crimp clamps but for some reason you have to prove you have one of his pumps, weird.


I need 2 of those clamps just not in a hurry to order them from him.

I never read the "5 minutes" part back when I ordered my pump. Although I swore I would never cut our car up, it now sports a trap door for the fuel pump. No regrets.

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

I never read the "5 minutes" part back when I ordered my pump. Although I swore I would never cut our car up, it now sports a trap door for the fuel pump. No regrets.

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Yeah same here. It was painful to do it but worth it.

It was kind of scary taking a guess on the cuts for the panel. I looked at some pics on-line of other access panels to mark mine out. My only issues was that I just barely nicked the insulation on a wire with the die grinder. The harness was basically up against the underbody. Anyone planning on this can use the pic as a guideline for their cuts. I would recommend moving the rear cut line back at least 1/4" to 1/2" for additional clearance. I carefully drilled holes at the corners and used an air nibbler for all the flat areas. I had to then go at it with a die grinder and a cut off wheel in the contours. You need to cover up your interior with towels or whatever and have a friend with a fire extinguisher handy just in case you get into a fuel line by accident.

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/v...psfbab47c4.jpg

Last few f bodies I've picked over in the junk yards all have this done. More common then you think.