Converting 5 lug trailer hub to disc. Brake’s what donor car

Converting 5 lug trailer hub to disc. Brake’s what donor car

I have a 24’ overall length boat trailer, it does’nt have brakes I would like to build my own caliptor bracket out of galivinized steel and have it welded to my new 93” long 2 ½” square axel tube.

Capacity of axel is GVW 3500LBs

?1.please recommend a newer small Chevy or import for a rotor w/ trailer hub spaced 5 lug and a calipoter? I’m not sure of exact size as of now.

I’m thinking a 10” disc will not fit into my 13” wheels? So probablley the next size smaller.
?2.I would like to leave the trailers hub alone ,really I have to because my trailer is a torsion type suspension so the splindle and torsion arm are pressed onto the axel,

And just layer the disc. Ontop of the trailers hub.

Attach image of homemade bracket.
woops I can't upload here I only have 5 images and I'm over my quota.
Thanks

Can we assume that your trailer either doesn't have brakes or doesn't have working brakes? Rather than going through a bunch of fabrication that may or may not work, I'd really suggest you look at some of the trailer parts stores. They carry complete brake sets for all kinds of trailers. For a home build I'm a fan of the electric brake sets as you can just run the power off of a standard 7 pin trailer wire harness and then install a brake controller in your vehicle. Going with a home built disk set up from a car you are going to have to figure out how to operate the brake with a hydraulic system and how to activate the hydraulic master (mounted on the tongue of the trailer) with some trigger. I've seen these on military trailers using a slide mechanism where when the tow vehicle decelerates the slide (part of the trailer hitch) puts pressure against the brake master cylinder and applies the brakes. These systems seldom work well. Even if you can figure out how to make that work you are going to have a hell of a time making the brakes work in proportion to your tow vehicle without locking up the wheels on the trailer at every stop. A single wheel electric/drum brake (backing plate, hardware, shoes) for around $50 per side, brake drums are another $60 per side. Total around $250 with shipping. Much less headache and a lot more likely to work. You might also want to consider adding some sort of break-away braking mechanism for safety.

woops I should have mentioned my old trailer has a hydrolic surge brake actuater that I will swap onto the new aluimin trailer I will also swap as much of the brake line as I can gewt off the old trailer,

then I'll swap the aluimins regular coupler onto the old trailer which most likely will go w/ my current donor boat.

I have priced kits (you suggest), online it's kindof pricie. the bracket look easy to make I have a angle grinder/ cutoff wheel and a Buddy can weld the brakcet to the axel.

OH can't use electric brakes dunking into saltwater.

the surge brake master cylinder built into the tongue coupler accuates itself, this design has been around a very long time. if maintained well even my old surge master cy;inder should have many more stops in them
Thanks

22-46260 Tie Down Aluminum Disc Brakes - Trailer Depot


to me this is the way I would go.....your time and trouble is worth something and really that's not a ton of money for the whole shebang. I just dealt with these guys on some hubs and they were great to deal with.....ask for Joe.


edit: nevermind...just saw you were looking for a chevy stud pattern. Those are on a 4.5"

Brakes are nice but for a trailer with a 3500lbs capacity.... pretty unnecessary if you're pulling with a standard size truck.

That being said I would agree with sjgreen and look for a brake kit. It is cool to fab one up yourself but for far less work and headache in the future a kit would probably be better.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 0rion

22-46260 Tie Down Aluminum Disc Brakes - Trailer Depot


to me this is the way I would go.....your time and trouble is worth something and really that's not a ton of money for the whole shebang. I just dealt with these guys on some hubs and they were great to deal with.....ask for Joe.


edit: nevermind...just saw you were looking for a chevy stud pattern. Those are on a 4.5"

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excellent advice as usalle.

I have decided to reuse my old axels off my tandom trailer onto my new to me aluimin single axel trailer the old axels have drum brakes.

don't like dunking the leave springs in saltwater.

why cant I attachs images here anymore?

thanks

update on the trailer ans brake upgrade.

I picked up a nice fresh water (kindof) trailer just for the two solid 2200LB axels it's a tamdon so the total load
GVW is 4400LBs my load is excludeing the weight of aluimin trailer is 2500LBs .

I'm in the process of removing the axels/fenders/guide poles/LED taillights/ surge master cylinder
bunks.
then will swap into the frame of the first trailer which will give me three feet of bunk adjustment/tongue weight adjustment the donor trailer also had very brake lines.

what type of a tie wrap is secureing brake line? like is there a double hole this tiewrape is threaded though?

current problem
the top mount bolt to the brake caliptor has been removed the bottom bolt which is a tad smaller top is 9/16
bottom is 11mm thr bottom bolts has rust fused itself together.

what I'm gonna try grind a screwdriver grove in bolt head then use a big ecaiblier screwdriver.
I have been sparying the correorded galvanized hardware w/ WD40.

plan to soak all unquestionable bolts nut replace worn stuff w/ metal resuce.

wheres the best place to obtain the following stuff

disc brake kit which includes disc.calipatoer/pads/bearings /race ect.

Dico Disk Brake Assembly Kit | Brakes & Actuators
Thanks still can't upload images.

Try some pb blaster on the bolts instead of wd. It will take a few soakings to get them loose. Why are you set on using a chevy bolt pattern? West Marine has this. TIE DOWN ENGINEERING Eliminator Disc Brake Kit | West Marine. Has everything you need brand new. Buy some galvanized paint to cover anything new you put on.