Printable View
I order Ã* wsq hood body working on it for a couple of days it's says bolt on holes don't match got that fix now the bump lines does not match the hood line don't match this hood for a 1000 bucks with shipping is a disaster please let me know what problems you guys ran in to greetings barry I am gonna send ws6 project a mail see how they are gonna fix this I am not getting my complete car painted with a hood that does not line up and look like sh(tted together rice bucket
Could you be a little more specific on what parts are not lining up. I don't have that hood but have a super hawk hood and when first put it on was like oh shit this thing don't fit for nothing. After lots of little tweaks here and there I'm more than pleased with it. I will look later and see if I still have my directions my hood builder sent me and post it for you. There are lots of guys running that particular hood and really haven't ever heard anything bad. Patients my friend
Thanks king the part by the bumper does not line up at al how can I share pictures? Greetings bArry
Photos - need to upload on Photobucket then copy the url link and post here.
I have the hood, I still haven't fully fit it yet. There are a couple of things that the instructions state. It is in a raw form, you or a shop will need to shape the hood to get it right. The biggest issue is the hood release. You'll need to add some spacers to the loop and bend the grip handle to have it work properly. You also need to remove the rubber hood pegs and there are tabs on the hood hinges that need to be bend flat.
One more thing did you get their hood struts. Do not use the oem struts or you'll crack the hood.
As far as the fitting goes, I'm sure there's plenty of different ways of doing it... and you can first attempt to simply bolt it to the hinges right away and see how it sits, but the inconsistency I've always found from one bird to the next is the headlight covers.... So the very first thing I'll do after removing the factory hood is remove the covers (2 phillips head screws in the rear while in the down position), then turn the lights on to pop them up (turn switch back to parking lights to not drain your battery), then remove the 4 phillips head screws from the plastic bezel around each light to get that off, then you'll have access to the 2 remaining screws for the cover. Put them back in the down position once the cover and bezel are removed. Now is when I bolt the hood to the hinges. Don't bother installing the latch and lever yet, just finger tighten the hinge bolts until they're secure, but allowing for some movement of the hood. Then you can lower the hood to get an idea of how it sits. There are two guide tabs on the hinge assembly that can be a real pain... but you'll just basically have to do some trial and error to get them to feed into the upper portion of the hinge properly when lowering the hood. Once lowered, you should still be able to move the hood in any direction you need to align it to the fenders and bumper cover. I do leave a bit of extra material on the front edge of the hood, so if it appears to be too tight to the bumper cover, you can shave down some of the material on the front edge to get it to sit properly into the bumper. Over time, the soft plastic bumper and the plastic push pins that mount it stretch under their own weight... and more-so if the car has ever been bottomed out on a parking block or something of that sort... that's why build it with a bit of extra material, to compensate for any sagging of the bumper. Once you've got the fender and bumper seams aligned uniformly, go ahead and torque the hinge bolts down to keep the hood in alignment. Now you can go ahead and install the struts and the u-bolt latch (you can leave the lever for last or install it now if you prefer). The latch piece has slotted holes, so it's best to finger-tighten the bolts and lower it into the receiver slowly, watching it feed into the receiver, so you know if it needs to move left or right, then you can tighten the bolts. It may not lock into the receiver yet, but that's okay for now. Next step is setting the levels right. I first crank all 4 rubber bumpstops (2 behind headlights, 2 in between) all the way down to not interfere with the hood yet. If the level is a bit high or a bit low at the front of the hood, you'll want to adjust the latch receiver mechanism first. It's held to your secondary core support with two 13mm bolts into slotted holes. That gives you about 2 inches of vertical adjustment. Use that to set the level of the nose of the hood with the bumper. Once again, if there's any interference, you can sand down the edges a bit to fit the bumper's contours. After that is set, then you can use the bumpstops to make the fine adjustments at the front corners of the hood. If the hood requires some pressure to close, don't worry... once it goes through a few heat/cold cycles by driving it, the tension will relieve itself as the hood settles into position. Once all the levels are set, then you can tackle the headlight covers. They may already sit pretty close without any adjustment, but I always prefer to get the seams perfect for clearance and appearance. With the hood latched shut and the lights in the down position, place the covers on top of the lights, aligning the screw holes in the rear so you'll be able to see how it would sit if they were mounted. It's probably easiest to do one cover at a time of course. At this point the cover may sit above/below the hood line, or the gaps may me inconsistent. You'll see a few small white-headed rubber bumpstops... I usually crank them down first and concentrate on the gaps before doing the levels. If you have inconsistent gaps, you'll want to locate the tiny torx-bit screws on top of the headlight bracket. It's pretty self-explanatory... once you loosen them, the bracket will slide in whatever direction you like. Just be careful not to loosen them by more than a half turn at a time, otherwise they'll be too loose and slide forward, and you'll lose your starting position. If you need to close a gap on one side or the other, loosen the 2 or 3 screws on that side a small amount and press the bracket in the direction required. This is difficult to explain this way, but once you get into it, you'll see what I'm talking about. Once you make any adjustments, just place the cover back on and line it up with the rear screw mounting holes to check the gap. This just makes it much easier than reinstalling everything and hoping it's aligned properly every time. It can sometimes take some trial and error to get the gaps just right. Be sure to leave a bit of room at the rear so it doesn't rub against the hood when turning the lights on. If the cover is sitting two low in certain areas, this is when you can raise the little white bumpstops to get it level with the hood. Once everything is lined up, go ahead and reinstall the cover by turning the lights on, installing the 2 front screw for the cover, then the plastic bezel, and finally lowering the lights and reinstalling the two rear screws. Whew... I believe that's just about it for the install and adjustment. Sorry for this mass of text here Jeff... I was just trying to run through my whole process in my head here. I really should prepare a formal installation guide sometime, that would make things much easier. Now as far as the post-curing goes... I honestly don't think that the sun exposure will do a whole lot for it. The engine heat is much more effective, so letting the car idle with the hood installed for 45 minutes or so is always good. I prefer driving the car with the hood on a few times, but not everyone can do that. Typically the body shop will use infrared curing lamps to cure a part after the primer and the paint stages. I always recommend putting the heat to it before the primer. As I said before, this is just a precaution. When you expose the hood to the proper amount of heat, you'll notice that it will lose some of it's shine... the surface will dull a bit. That is the gelcoat drying into the fiberglass a bit. What I wouldn't want to see happen is for that process to take place after the hood is painted, otherwise it may dull the finish of the paint, requiring another wet-sand and buffing.
Here is what my Hood maker sent me maybe it will help.
Here is what I did to my latch to make it work. Cut it and rebent it and welded. Sorry if the picture comes out upside down took it with the iPad and it was upside down and won't let me change it. Also I had to pull my bumper cover up and screw it where the push pins are as they sag over time and the push pins don't hold it where it needs to be.
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfcaf1991.jpg
Here is an idea of what we are working the that I bought it from said it was bolt on so did not need extra parts thanks for the reply what is a total list of everything I need to get?
Gerard's barry
Is will send al the replies to the bodyshop
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps731290d9.jpg
My hood fit just the same in the front, you need to use a file around the air inlets on the nose piece and keep working with it. Look just inside the hood where the nose piece attached to the car there are black push pins, you may have to hog out the hole a little and keep filing and moving nose piece to match hood then put a screw in them next to the push pin so they can't move anymore. I don't have any pictures but mine was kind of the same and as you can see it came out fine. I worked at it for about a day maybe two until everything was perfect. Once you get it where you want it drill a 1/8 inch hole where it bolts to the hinge so if you remove it to paint the bottom it will go back exactly where you need it. Just put a rivet in the hole and then your bolts and everything should line back up.