blown head gasket? or something else very strange happenings

Hi everyone, need help
Last night driving home car seemed to be fine, then about 4 blocks from home my car suddenly ran and sounded like a really bad exhaust issue, and while on the gas my car wasn't excelerating, then it just shut down. I called my hubby and upon arrival, the car started,and seemed OK, so drove it home. Now hubbys checking it out, and notices coolant seems to disappearing slowly since he just checked it a couple weeks ago. He doesn't see any leaks, and says the car is now running super rough almost as it did when this happened last night,
Is this a head gasket issue? No smoke!
And has not overheated. (2000 ws6) ALSO **NOTE...SON SAID HE SMELLED POSSIBLE ANTIFREEZE BURNING OR SOMETHING, WHEN WE GOT THE CAR HOME LASTNIGHT

Take a look in the coolant see if any oil might be in it and also check the oil. If the oil looks like it's turning into chocolate milk then you have a bad gasket leak.

You can pull the plugs and see if any of the cyl have coolant in them or if the cyl has coolant in it.

White smoke coming out the rear is a definite sign.

If all else fails you can do a compression test on each cyl to see. This will let you find which cyl has the issue.

Make sure to get it check soon, if you have a bad leak and it fills a cyl it will cost a lot more if you have a hydrolock.


Another location to check are the coolant crossover tubes. On the LS1 you have 2, one front and one rear. To check the rear you will need to remove the intake. They have o rings that can sometimes fail.

One more thing to check. Just humor me and check the fuel pressure on the rail. You should have about 56-58psi when you turn the key one but not start. It should also hold it, if you see it dropping down or no/not enough pressure then you need to check the fuel pump.

Sounds like a misfire... have you scanned it for codes?

Thank u! I'm printing this out for hubby to view when he gets home

The disappearing coolant sounds like a head gasket but the loud noise has me worried. Please do a compression test and post the results.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

One more thing to check. Just humor me and check the fuel pressure on the rail. You should have about 56-58psi when you turn the key one but not start. It should also hold it, if you see it dropping down or no/not enough pressure then you need to check the fuel pump.

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We discussed this before lol

The fuel pressure will not be at 58psi running pressure with the key just to the "on" position - it will be much lower. The on position without the car running only temporarily primes the pump to ensure there's enough fuel at the rail to start the car. Fuel pressure will be around 47psi, or thereabouts.

Will do, car just suddenly with no warning sounded like an exhaust leak or bad muffler, and while trying to drive a lil further to pull over It wouldn't excelerate and it died

Fuel pressure, spark, a failed crank or cam position sensor, jumped timing chain, blown head gasket, burned plug wire, cracked intake... lots of possibilities.

Initial diagnostics, as mentioned above, should include checking fuel pressure, scanning for codes, a careful visual inspection, pulling spark plugs (a super clean plug is a sign of coolant infiltrating the combustion chamber), compression check... let us know what you find.

I would start with the fuel pressure on your running issue......as far as the coolant disappearing have him look at the weep hole on the back of the water pump and see if it's wet.

Thank you everyone who responded, your help is always a reminder of how great this site is! As for my t\a hubby hasn't really had a chance to look over it yet, but believes its most certainly a head gasket, once we know for certain I will certainly let you all know, once again thank you all!

If it is the head gasket get MLS gaskets not the graphite ones. If you do have graphite you need to clean it carefully. Use a brass wire brush or a chemical gasket remover. Also make sure each and every head bolt hole is cleaned out and dry. If not it will crack your block. Head bolts are TTY (Torque to Yield) meaning only one time use. Do not reuse the current ones.

Take a metal straight edge and run it along the surface of the cyl head. Looking to see it is flat. If you see light in the space between the head and straight edge then you need to have the heads checked. Not doing so runs the risk that the head has warped and will not seat properly.

I had disappearing coolant. Ended up being a cracked head

Ouch. If you're looking for heads try to pick up a used set of 243 or 799 heads. It will mean new valve covers but it will be worth it. I picked mine up for $450 and paid $40 for the valve covers.

If you do get used heads make sure an auto machine shop looks over.

Double ouch. Since you have to tear into it anyway good time to make some upgrades.