6.0l engine block help

I blew my 03 6.0l in my silverado 2500hd.

Well ended up buying a short block and after putting in my mild cam and timing chain I noticed some differences there are two threaded holes under the came gear that we're not in my 03 block. the block I had purchased from summit was an 05 also the head bolt holes for the 05 are different from the one in the block of the 03. The bolts drop about 2in in the 03 block before they start to thread and in the 05 block they are threaded right away and are tightened before they reach the head about 2in away. Also what else is different on this block? Oil pan? Seal? Gaskets?

One other question is for headers.

I am stuck between shorties and long tubes. I currently have Gibson pipes with a magnaflow muffler. Stock cats and manifolds. Was thing stainless shorties or stainless long tubes with a cat delete? Any issues with no cats? What's best for power and fuel economy?

Thank you. I'm new BTW! Names Tyler:woot:

Ps: if any one knows anything about torsion systems my truck does not have front suspension after new ball joints bds lift tie rods control arm bushings shocks ext. the torsion bar when loading it was very tight it actual bent our ball joint press..? Now it seems that the truck is cranked all the way and is so stiff it has no suspension like it is up on jacks.

Welcome.


Can you post a pic of the holes under the cam?


IIRC The 05' and up GM changed the threading of the bolt holes for the heads. That is why there are 2 different head bolts for the >04' and 05< yrs.

Block wise you should be good, it's the reluctor you need to pay attention to. You are on a 24x reluctor, in 05' GM changed over to the 58x.

YOU NEED TO VERIFY WHAT RELUCTOR WHEEL YOU HAVE!!

You will not run unless you change it OR get a 58x convertor module.

This is the only module that I know of that does this. (not cheap)

Lingenfelter TRG-002 58x-24x Crank Sensor Trigger Conversion Module - Lingenfelter Performance

It would be cheaper to change the reluctor wheel. Any shop that has a press can do so.



Cats, no Cats? It comes down to your state emissions and preferrence. No CATS is still illegal on the Federal level. There are cat back systems if you need to meet emmissions.

Personally I prefer LT's.

My truck is an 03 and the reluctor wheel is looking to be the 24x reluctor wheel. So I should be fine since the I have the 03 sensors ext?

Also no emission testing in michigan. So all good. But will I have a dummy light? If so any way to fool the sensor?

Also how do I post pictures? I'm a newbie

You said you were getting a short block. Usually that means it has the crank, rods, pistons etc already installed minus the cylinder heads, intake, TB, injectors (top end stuff)

Unless you requested the 24x reluctor wheel to be installed the 05's are defaulted for 58x reluctor wheel.

This is why I'm stressing for you to confirm what one you have.




If you get LT's you will need to tune out the rear O2's. There are simulators but I've heard they can be faulty at times. We have a popular tuner named Frost on here. Does great mail order tunes. His site is tunedbyfrost.com


For picture posting read this thread:

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f98/how-po...bucket-138199/

Already have the shortblock that was sent from summit. I'm pretty sure it. has the 24x reluctor wheel. So I'm good? I will look into posting pics

With reference to your shorties versus long-tube headers, get LT's. Shorties will not offer you much benefit or flow over the stock manifolds. Personally, I would go with a quality set-up that is preferably stainless steel so you never have to mess with it again once installed.

As previously noted, yes, you will get an SES light after installing them. You'll need to either get the rear O2 sensors tuned out, or install O2 simulators to fool the PCM. I suggest getting them tuned out with a tune by Frost also.

just purchased the long tubes.

I have the 24x reflector wheel in the short block from summit. does frost make pretty good tunes? able to take TQ all the way off turn off O2 sensors so I wont have a light? and be able to give me more HP and Torque when I want it? what does he charge? am I able to request a new tune if I add new things to my truck? I was thinking of a blackbear tune or a local dyno. but I wll look into frost if he is just as good and can save me some $$ :chuckles:

Simply put, he is one of the best in the business there is.

He street and dyno tuned my 02 SS which is Procharged. I personally have emailed him and talked to him on the phone even. Guy knows his shit. Unfortunately I didn't meet him because my car was 3 hours away being tuned by him and my builder. He flew in for the tune though. He had a dozen other built cars he tuned while he was in the area as well.

The answers to your questions are all yes. You fill out a form and tell him your mods...he works his magic based on the info you provide and all you want done. Retunes are discounted I believe.

FYI - his name is Steve.

:true:


I have his tune too.

Cost? Also how do I contact him?

www.tunedbyfrost.com.

All info is on the site.

I emailed him. also tech question the Drive by wire Throttle system keeps my truck feeling like a nanny because when on demand or when I went to show of to some people about the power of the 6.0l I can not break the tires loose... it holds the rpm right before it will break. any way to bypass this? I asked frost if he has messed with this before I am waiting to see what he will say.

I want to say he can in the tuning.....but throttle cable is about the best substitute

I have an older throttle body that is cable I just don't know how I would run it to my truck or what to do with sensors. Ill have to look into it. I want my full power when ever I want it.

I'm willing to bet there is already a hole for the cable in the firewall. It should be to the left of the brake booster and above the steering column.