Originally Posted by
FinZ28
According to Kelly Blue Book, that price is right on the money. Read up on here, as there are several threads regarding buying a used F-body. A few basic things, though.
Make sure all the lights (headlights, turn signals, fog lights, etc) work. Since it's a T/A, make sure the headlights go up and down as they should. Also make sure the keyless entry remote works as it should.
Look at belts and hoses for signs of wear (dry and cracked). Same for all the weatherstripping, especially around the doors and rear hatch.
Look at the paint and see if there are any chips, cracks or other damage. Also look at the body lines and make sure doors line up with fenders, the hood sits right and looks even between the fenders, and check the rear hatch, too. Look at the rubber trim at the base of the side windows and other non-painted areas and make sure they don't have paint on them, which could indicate the car having been repainted at some point in time.
Check all 4 tires for even wear. Look at the wheels and make sure all the lug nuts are in place. Assuming nobody removed them, each wheel should have one locking lug nut. Make sure you have the key to the lug nut, too. Also look for curb rash on the wheels.
Check the interior and make sure nothing is missing. Check the center console and make sure the hinge isn't broken. Same goes for the glove box.
Start the car and let it idle. Does it idle smooth? Do any of the dash lights stay on once the car is running? If they do, find out why. If there is an auto parts store nearby, when you test-drive it, take it there to have the battery and alternator tested. If for some reason the Service Engine Soon light is on, they can plug a code reader up to the car and pull the codes to find out why the light is on.
Shift the transmission in to drive. Does it shift smooth or does it go in to gear with a clunk?
Drive the car. Does it drive straight on a good level road? Any vibration in the steering wheel? When you brake, does the car stop smooth or shudder as it stops? Do the brakes squeal any? Does the engine feel like it has plenty of power, are there any misses? Does the transmission shift fairly firm and smooth, or does it feel like it's slipping any? Is the ride relatively smooth, or is it harsh? Any clunks or similar noises when driving over uneven surfaces? Turn the wheels and listen for any whining, which could indicate a issue with the power steering pump. You can check the emergency brake by putting the car in drive on a level surface where it's safe to do so, engine running, with the brake up. The car should not move.
In park with the engine running, get a friend to rev the engine up a couple of times. Does it smoke any from the exhaust? Blue-gray smoke typically indicates burning oil, while white smoke indicates burning coolant. Shouldn't be an issue with a rebuilt motor, but it doesn't hurt to check.
Look under the car with the car running and see if you see any leaks (oil, transmission or coolant). Does the oil pan or transmission look wet anywhere?
Check your fluids under the hood once the car is shut off and cools off. Check and make sure everything is full and clean. Motor oil, at least when new and clean, should be almost an amber color and shouldn't look milky. Transmission fluid is red, and the coolant (assuming it's Dex-Cool) should be orange.
Check all your switches inside the car and make sure they work (power door lock switches, power windows, trunk release, fog lights, ASR, cruise control, stereo and steering wheel controls). Also listen to the windows as you roll them up and down to see whether the motor is on the way out.
Listen for engine noises, like knocking or tapping. If you hear either, does the sound go away once the car warms up? Some engine noises can actually be exhaust leaks, which can be a pain to locate unless you have a mechanic's stethoscope.
Also, check the HVAC. Make sure the blower motor works, and that the heat and A/C work.
Make sure the power seat works as it should.
Check the driver door (or door jamb) for the RPO code sticker. It's white with black print and a bunch of 3-digit codes. One of the codes should be WS6, indicating it's a true WS6 car and not a clone.
I would say look at the tail lights for water damage, but the pics seem to indicate they are okay. Tail lights with water damage usually appear dark and murky. The pics don't indicate this problem.
Also look in the rear wheel wells and see if you find any old, dried-up rubber indicating the car has been raced or subjected to burnouts.
Get somebody to show you where the spare tire and jack are (rear hatch, right-passenger side under a plastic cover with 3 screws) and make sure they are indeed there. The amp for the Monsoon sound system is located in the same area, although, if the car has had any work done on the stereo, it may have been removed. On that note, listen to the stereo and make sure the speakers work. This is a good time to check the weatherstripping in the trunk. Also look for any rust around the lower part of where the hatch closes in to the car.
Any issues that arise can be haggling points for the price of the car. Don't be afraid to lowball their price to get the best deal possible, if indeed this is the car you decide to buy. Get any warranty on the car in writing, and figure out what is covered by said warranty, and what isn't, to prevent headache down the road.
Good luck!
