2006 Gto

I have a Gto, has anybody else had problem's with the key not turning on there car ? I sat for 5yrs once in front of a store because my key wouldn't turn..so i called "GM" about it cause a buddy of mine in s.fla said there was a re call on that problem. But GM said there was just not on my vin# lol....they wanted all kinds of $$ to tow an everything else...to make a long story short...i called A locksmith...it took him 8sec's to get my car started an $100 but well worth it....the trick he showed me is put alittle wd40 put the key in an while turning tap on the back of the key with something hard...but don't hit to hard lol....just thought id share cause i hear gto an gm owner's it happens alot...

I've had my cars key not come out but this is the first I've heard of this

I've heard of this. The lock cylinder seizes from the temperature. There is a DIY fix online. It involves removing the colum covers, removing the cylinder and removing, I think, a tumbler or a pin that locks the column. There is also a TSB for this with GM.

We have a 2004 GTO and have never had this problem. But we will know what to do if it does happen in the future. Thanks.

I don't think the 04s had that issue, just 05/6, but I could be wrong.

yep....this is an 05/06 issue and there are how to's online as far as fixing it.

About twice a year I put a little white lithium grease on my key put the key in and out a few times then wipe in off then repeat until the key comes out fairly clean. So far my ignition has not locked up, the ignition has felt tight a few times in the hot hot summer but thats when I know its time for some more grease.

I had the same problem happen to me. Its a factory defect in the stock cylinder. Go to a GM dealership or order the new "revised" cylinder from GM parts direct. The new cylinder has a revised ramp for the spring loaded pin to move smoothly form the off, to on position. The OLD cylinder design would pit. This would cause the pin to get stuck in the pit.

It's easy to replace just when you put everything back together, make sure the pin that locks the steering wheel is pushed in. The steering wheel should be UNLOCKED at that point. If you force the cylinder back in, you WILL BREAK the dog ear off and it won't retain itself in the housing (you pull the key out and everything will come out). I just did this fix and unfortunately broke the ear off of my first cylinder, so I'm speaking from experience lol.

Here is the new part #: 92234035
Old "Obsolete" #: 92172018

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AKA Speedy

I had the same problem happen to me. Its a factory defect in the stock cylinder. Go to a GM dealership or order the new "revised" cylinder from GM parts direct. The new cylinder has a revised ramp for the spring loaded pin to move smoothly form the off, to on position. The OLD cylinder design would pit. This would cause the pin to get stuck in the pit.

It's easy to replace just when you put everything back together, make sure the pin that locks the steering wheel is pushed in. The steering wheel should be UNLOCKED at that point. If you force the cylinder back in, you WILL BREAK the dog ear off and it won't retain itself in the housing (you pull the key out and everything will come out). I just did this fix and unfortunately broke the ear off of my first cylinder, so I'm speaking from experience lol.

Here is the new part #: 92234035
Old "Obsolete" #: 92172018

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Thanks for the great info!!!!

No problem!

ive had this happen a few times because i live in the great state of Texas during the summer. All i usually have to do is remove the key from the ignition, lock and unlock the car and its good to go from there. Tell me if this works for anyone else.

I caution anyone who has had this "act" up. If the problem presents itself then its only a matter of time before it permanently seizes up. At that point you'll have to pay the stealership $1400 to replace the entire steering column because they won't be able to remove the tumbler without turning the key to the "on" position.

Okay, here are some picks with captions.

New Cylinder: It's got a revised ramp design and it's made out of a stronger material that shouldn't pit like the old one did.
Attachment 24012

Old Cylinder: Before it pit's. Notice the different design and aluminum color.
Attachment 24014

Here's where the old cylinder would pit. It creates a bad transition and the spring loaded pin gets jammed. Without a smooth ramp to transition to the guide located around the rim of the cylinder, it just stops and won't turn.
Attachment 24017