General, removing components (engine bay)

Hi again guys,

I've read various threads about removing certain components to tidy up the engine bay, example AIR; EGR and so on, but I've not seen anything about removing the air conditioning unit and associated pipe-work. This is something that I've given a little thought to because as I live in the UK and it doesn't uaually get unbearably hot for too long or too often, but when it does; I've got T-tops.

I'd like to hear opinions for and against removing the air con system.


Also, would detaching the AIR tube from the airbox lid and fitting some kind of filter to the end of the tube throw a code? I was thinking about this approach for when I get an SLP lid, it would be purely temporary until I got the AIR system tuned out.

Thanks guys,

Mike.

The SLP lid has a provision for hooking up the tube for the secondary air. You want filtered air, so I would not leave it hanging free. Other option would be to install a small conical filter into the end of the tube, at least until the system is completely removed.

The AC components certainly takes up a lot of real estate and have some weight to them. I believe that UMI Performance makes an aluminum block off plate for the firewall. Only drawback to removal that I am aware of is that your defroster will not have the benefit of blowing "dry air".

You would also want to properly recover the refrigerant from the AC system before removing any componants.

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

The SLP lid has a provision for hooking up the tube for the secondary air. You want filtered air, so I would not leave it hanging free. Other option would be to install a small conical filter into the end of the tube, at least until the system is completely removed.

The AC components certainly takes up a lot of real estate and have some weight to them. I believe that UMI Performance makes an aluminum block off plate for the firewall. Only drawback to removal that I am aware of is that your defroster will not have the benefit of blowing "dry air".

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I always thought and heard that the reason the ac pump kicks on and off durring defrost usage was to circulate the r34 refrigerant..:dunno:




To the OP, If you think you don't really need the AC then I'd get rid of it.

As Jeff states it takes up a lot of room and adds weight, along with putting drag on the engine as it takes/robs horse power to drive the compressor unit.

Also the condensor sits ahead of the radiator and on some cars as it ages it tends to collect road debris and can cause poor air flow across the radiator.

This can force the cooling fans to work harder and also cause the radiator to not be able to do it's job cooling the engine as effectively.

Though the AC harms fuel mileage,,, here in Pennsylvania, it's not uncommon to see temps into the 90's in the summer with high humidity.

Now that I'm getting older, I like having the option, and usually keep up on the systems workings so it always works.

However,, in my project car, I have stripped it completely from the car because it's added weight I don't want, even though the car is solid black.

I guess it boils down to the individual and the wether they want the added comfort AC brings on steamy hot days or not.

With all that said, I must add,, if you do deside to do away with the system, or any time you service the AC, to wear proper eye protection.

As R34 refrigerant can blind you instantly..

I recommend as Knight suggests to have it drained/recovered prior to taking any part of the AC system off the car.

Thanks for the replies guys, I think I'll see how things go during this (my first) summer with it. I didn't get the car until late summer early autumn last year.

Mike.

Mike there is a fuse in the fuse box for the air pump that you can remove. It will kill the air pump and there are no codes thrown.

I still have the POS in mine, just haven't had a reason to go and remove it.



Also you can do a wire hide mod that also cleans up the engine bay very nicely.

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Mike there is a fuse in the fuse box for the air pump that you can remove. It will kill the air pump and there are no codes thrown.

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Thanks very much, that's very interesting to know.

I always thought that cats worked optimally once they were up to temperature. Taking cool air meant for the intake and introducing it into the exhaust, before the cats, I can't help thinking that would delay them from warming up. I could be way off, it wouldn't be the first time.

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

I still have the POS in mine, just haven't had a reason to go and remove it.

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It's on my list of things to do........ eventually.

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Also you can do a wire hide mod that also cleans up the engine bay very nicely.

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I've seen the thread on that mod, it looks very impressive. I fear I'd screw something up, I'm not confident working with wires.

Mike.

Wire hide mod is quite simple and takes less than an hour to complete. Only stressful part is drilling a hole in the wheel house with a hole saw. Other than that, the wires simply unplug, run through the hole in the area above the wheel well liner, and then plug back together. The wire harness is then taped for an added measure of protection.

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Originally Posted by SS Camaro UK

Thanks very much, that's very interesting to know.

I always thought that cats worked optimally once they were up to temperature. Taking cool air meant for the intake and introducing it into the exhaust, before the cats, I can't help thinking that would delay them from warming up. I could be way off, it wouldn't be the first time.

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When you install headers and delete the cats the air pump becomes dead weight. IMHO I think the air pump was a gimmick that GM tried to help in fuel ratings.

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Originally Posted by SS Camaro UK

It's on my list of things to do........ eventually.

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I know how you feel.

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Originally Posted by SS Camaro UK

I've seen the thread on that mod, it looks very impressive. I fear I'd screw something up, I'm not confident working with wires.

Mike.

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Like Jeff said, drilling the wheel well can be tricky but rerouting the wires is so easy. It's funny when at shows the 3 things that I'm asked the most are - 1 - the snowflake wheels, 2 - LS6 VCT and catch can mod, and 3 - the wire hide mod. it really cleans the bay up nicely. I've thought about doing the drivers side but I think the hood latch cable might have issues if I rerun it.

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Originally Posted by pajeff02

Wire hide mod is quite simple and takes less than an hour to complete. Only stressful part is drilling a hole in the wheel house with a hole saw. Other than that, the wires simply unplug, run through the hole in the area above the wheel well liner, and then plug back together. The wire harness is then taped for an added measure of protection.

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. Jeff is there any write ups on that wire mod that I can look up to get some direction, thought about doing that and was looking and did not know where to start

This is the one I followed from our Appearance section of the forum: Wire Mod - a set on Flickr

Thanks Jeff I did find it last night after looking for a bit I came across it after looking at I think everything else on the site, also read your wright up on the K-Frame awsome job you do the same work(attention to detail) I have done to my bikes for years, now I can start on the TA.... Thanks

Thanks! I just enjoy wrenching on cars and really try to do it right. We ended up selling our bike about 3 years ago - just wasn't riding it a whole lot and with all the oil and gas crap up here the truck traffic was getting ridiculous.

I watched a video on You Tube recently and saw that someone had removed their power steering, ABS and installed an electric water pump, all in the pursuit of a tidy engine bay. I didn't realise that ABS and power steering could be deleted.

Has anybody on this forum done it, know someone that has, or would do it themselves?

I would be very interested to hear both opinions about this.

I saw a ws6 at a car show a few weeks ago and he had everything striped out,power steering, a/c, all the EGR stuff, the engine bay was tidy. He uses it to drag, took seats out,radio heater controls, you name it its gone...myself to much! To me it would be only good for straight line, not much fun to drive elsewhere! I guess you have to decide you want a race car or a street car you can race, ways to do both...

ABS would be a bad thing to get rid of....

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Originally Posted by az gt eater

ABS would be a bad thing to get rid of....

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I also think this.
How about power steering, are f-bodies hard to steer without it?

Only when not moving. A few members here have installed manual steering racks.

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Originally Posted by SS Camaro UK

I also think this.
How about power steering, are f-bodies hard to steer without it?

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Hope you wont be making any 3-point turns, or parallel parking. :lol:

Easier when rolling, but still dead.

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Originally Posted by Knight

Only when not moving. A few members here have installed manual steering racks.

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This...

:yup: A manual steering rack makes it easier to turn than just cranking on a dead P/S system..

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Originally Posted by Smittro

Hope you wont be making any 3-point turns, or parallel parking. :lol:

Easier when rolling, but still dead.





This...

:yup: A manual steering rack makes it easier to turn than just cranking on a dead P/S system..

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Oops, my mistake :o I meant to say with a manual rack.

What are peoples' preferred option here; power or manual?