No Start

A few weeks ago my car died on me. It would crank, but there was no fuel pressure. I swapped out the fuel pump to a racetronix, and she fired right up. Now she died on me again. Same exact thing...cranks but no start. I scanned for codes, and have none.
Weird thing is, my wife said the horn started blaring yesterday while I was at work. Not like the alarm was going off, but steady. She said she had to get in the car and start it to get it to stop. The security light is not on. Don't know if the security system is screwed up.
Both times it has died on me the car runs fine, then I park somewhere, and come out to get the no start. I don't even no where to begin at this point. Any ideas?

Sounds like maybe an exposed wire causing a short somewhere. Time to do some tracing. When you replaced the pump, did you cut any wires or possibly pinch any while under the car?

Fuel, air and spark. That's what she needs to run so start with the basics and check your fuel pressure both with the key on and while cranking.

Cammed Goat: I didn't swap the harness when I replaced the pump, and I went through the trunk, so the only wires Itouched were at the unit. I am getting 12 volts at one wire when I jump the relay. I hope I didn't get a bad pump.

Jeff: No fuel pressure when sitting, none when cranking. The pumps not running.

The relay firing circuit could be bad. Did you test that? If that wire got pinched, it could be sending an inadequate amount of current to fire the relay.

Did you try just bypassing the relay?

Yes, I bypassed the relay, and got 12 volts at the pump. That's why I'm thinking I got a bad pump.

This is odd though. Your car was running fine, then the horn goes nuts and now the car won't fire. I'm tempted to say a ground issue is the cause.

Might be ignition relay, swap it with the cooling fan relay and see what happens.

never mind, missed the part about you NOT having fuel. sorry

I'm wondering about a ground issue myself. Doesn't matter if I have 12 volts to the pump, if there's no matching ground. The shop did "wire tying" when they were tuning my car. They found a harness that was too close to the header. I believe it was to the front passenger O2. May have to look a bit closer at teh harnesses on the drivers side.

Now, chasing a ground problem to the pump....
I have 12 volts while grounding the meter to the body. I assume I should still read 12 volts if I ground to the black pump wire? And if I don't, ground issue?

do you hear the pump prime when you turn the key? I guess I'm a little confused. You have 12 volts back and the pump isn't running or you when it won't start you have no voltage back there? I'm trying to see if your pump is running but just not sending pressure up the line.....that hose directly on the pump might've blown off or have a crack/hole in it.

you can check for continuity between your pump hot and chassis ground (with battery unhooked) to see if it's a short to ground issue. I *believe* you will only show 12 volts across the grey/blk when the relay closes. Pretty sure that's how it works but electrical isn't really my strong suit. Example....if you jump the relay up front the pump should run all the time.

The pump is not running. Not for the prime, or starting. When I jump the relay, I get voltage at one wire with a test light(forgot which color). But that's grounded to the body. I assume if I test with a meter, I should be able to read 12 volts when probing the power and ground to the pump. If I don't see that voltage, it could be a bad ground?
I would just assume a bad pump if it wasn't brand new, and didn't have the other electrical gremlins.

Set your meter to "ohm" and see if you get 12 volts to the ground. If you do, if I recall, you have a short to ground, or a shorted pump.

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Originally Posted by cammed goat

Set your meter to "ohm" and see if you get 12 volts to the ground. If you do, if I recall, you have a short to ground, or a shorted pump.

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you don't want to send voltage through the meter in the ohm setting....it can kill the meter. My memory is terrible these days and I'm having trouble remembering how to trouble shoot all this electrical stuff. It's been a while. :D I believe you put the meter in ohm/continuity mode and checking blk to chassis will tell you if the ground wire has a break in it. If it tones there's continuity and your ground wire is fine. To check for a short you disconnect the battery and check red to chassis ground and if it tones you have a short to ground. Believe that's how it works.

I'm gonna have to go dig out my manual......I'm thinking grey is actually the pump hot and blk is the ground.....not red and blk.

I was trying to find a wiring diagram for the pump, but no luck. The red I was talking about is to the actual pump inside the tank. If I can't find a diagram, it will be easy to pop the whole unit and see what wire is what. I'm just REALLY glad I decided to cut a hole rather than drop the tank. Having to drop it all over again would have killed me.

Are you looking for the stock wiring diagram for the car, or the Racetronix setup?

well.....like I say.....it's been a while but I'm pretty certain at the plug by the rear firewall you'll have a grey (hot), blk (grnd), and 2 purple ( sending unit) wires. Since you cut the hole did you inspect the wires to make sure you didn't cut into any making the hole?

Did you use everything that came with the new pump? Harness included in the kit?

I'm looking for the stock wiring, Jeff. I did not buy the racetronix harness, just the pump. The wires look fine, with no breaks in the insulation. I think Orion is right, but this rain just won't stop and I haven't been able to get out there.What is the point of the second plug that goes to the pump? It's got 3 wires and one is orange.