What mod should I get?

I got some money saved up and not sure quite where to put it. Hood, Headers, or Tuner.
New hood - I got hail damage on my current hood and want to replace it. I like the SS hood, but I got a Z28 and was leaning towards the ultra-z.
Headers and exhaust - I would love to put some headers on. Was looking at the TSP headers with either flow master 10 series or loudmouth 2 and run duals to the axle and dump it. But I'll get the ses light because I'll rip out the air pump and egr system.
HPtuners - I can tune and change various other options.

What do you guys think?

any mods at all?

What are your plans? DD/street/track/autox or a combo

A4/M6?

Basic bolt on's that you can do without worrying to much on the rear end would be - air lid, LT headers, ORY, exhaust, delete egr/air, a Frost tune and fix any quirks. SFC's are a must to have. Our cars can flex on stock power, add bolt ons and it increases your chances.


Now the answers to the questions above will help me and others give you more targeted advice.

Skip the tuner.....till you know what you are doing you are just a danger to yourself and the car. The "tune" that these hand helds do is crap and I also say go to Frost and get a mail order tune and he can get rid of all your emissions crap so your SES light wont come on for that. :)

Get some headers and an ORY and I would leave the factory axle back set up and just put a cut out in front of it. That way its nice and quiet when you are street driving but you can open up that cut out to make some noise or if you go to the track. :)

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Originally Posted by TLS_Addict

Skip the tuner.....till you know what you are doing you are just a danger to yourself and the car. The "tune" that these hand helds do is crap and I also say go to Frost and get a mail order tune and he can get rid of all your emissions crap so your SES light wont come on for that. :)

Get some headers and an ORY and I would leave the factory axle back set up and just put a cut out in front of it. That way its nice and quiet when you are street driving but you can open up that cut out to make some noise or if you go to the track. :)

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^^I agree with him. although HPtuners is not a handheld tuner and is a very good resource if you know how to use it.

That being said, I have LT's, ORY, and a magnaflow catback. I love the setup. It's very mellow driving around still pretty loud at WOT. I also have an electric cutout and love the combo. Quieter than the flowmaster that came on my car, with no drone... While I can open it up whenever I want.

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Originally Posted by derekbuckner1

^^I agree with him. although HPtuners is not a handheld tuner and is a very good resource if you know how to use it.

That being said, I have LT's, ORY, and a magnaflow catback. I love the setup. It's very mellow driving around still pretty loud at WOT. I also have an electric cutout and love the combo. Quieter than the flowmaster that came on my car, with no drone... While I can open it up whenever I want.

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You are correct. I said a few things about the handheld though. I would fear that if you did attempt to use the HP tuners you could really f^ck something up if you dont know what you are doing and the "other" handhelds are not worth the money. $150 for a tune from Frost (including shipping) along with heads, an ORY, and a cut out would work wonders. :)

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Originally Posted by TLS_Addict

You are correct. I said a few things about the handheld though. I would fear that if you did attempt to use the HP tuners you could really f^ck something up if you dont know what you are doing and the "other" handhelds are not worth the money. $150 for a tune from Frost (including shipping) along with heads, an ORY, and a cut out would work wonders. :)

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Lol I'll agree again. Also, with no mods mentioned, there is no real need for a tune yet. HPtuners is expensive software just to disable AIR and EGR.

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

any mods at all?

What are your plans? DD/street/track/autox or a combo

A4/M6?

Basic bolt on's that you can do without worrying to much on the rear end would be - air lid, LT headers, ORY, exhaust, delete egr/air, a Frost tune and fix any quirks. SFC's are a must to have. Our cars can flex on stock power, add bolt ons and it increases your chances.


Now the answers to the questions above will help me and others give you more targeted advice.

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I thought since I didn't mention any mods people would take it as not having any. And Yes I understand you need a complete vehicle history to get proper answers. :P

I have an M6 and only a lid. I DD the car now but, its still going to be a toy. I'll drive the shit out of it no matter what I do to it lol.

If you want to know my future plans down the road.......will be ls2 swap stroked out. And yes people I realize i'll need a new rearend.

As far as the tuner, I used to tune with Accel DFI, I would think hptuners has the same concept.

Currently I'm not concerned with track times. My current goals were to make it either look better, sound better, or run better.

OP - You'd be surprise on how many ppl ask the same question you have and not post what they have in mods/goals for the car. It usually takes about 3-5 post to get it out of them. I just ask to be sure and not waste time. I wasn't trying to offend.


Based on what you posted, I say skip the headers/ory because you're going to replace them anyways when you do a LS2 swap. Instead do your suspension first, get it solid, then the rear & tranny. Then you'll be ready to drop the LS2 in without worrying about breaking anything. It would be the smart way to do it without wasting $$$.

Now if you don't care about spending the extra $$ and want to fix up what you got now - SFC's, then headers/ory with a magnaflow muffler. P&P the TB, stick with the stock MAF. The stock MAF is very good.

Do yourself a favor and forget K&N CAI system. Many ppl have constant problems with the cleaning oil gunking up the MAF. We have at least 2-3 threads a month asking about why their car is running rough or misfiring, etc. 70% of the time it turns out they are using the K&N filter and haven't cleaned the MAF.

Many members here will tell you to stay away from SLP headers & about most of their products. The few that are liked are their air lids & line lock. Their headers have many clearance problems and their mufflers seem to rust faster then flowmasters.

Also many ppl using TS&P ORY's are having fitment issues (I am one of them). It fits much better then SLP but still has some problems.


Clutch - I recommend the LS7 clutch kit. Good up to just over 500 RWHP & torque. Very strong for DD, street, and occasional track use. I think it will also transfer to the LS2 (not 100% sure)

Hood - can't say I blame you for wanting to do this first. It would bug the hell out of me having dents on my ride to be honest.


Tuning - to be honest I know very little about the hand helds, I went with Frost for my tuning for bolt ons. Once I do a C/H I'll have to do a full tune then.


Fix the common problems that plague F-bodies:

SFC's - I know I keep mention this, there's a good reason. Like I posted above our cars flex under stock power.
Passenger Window Motor - ever wonder why it rolls up so damn slow? It's because GM wired it badly. By the time the voltage gets to it it is under current. There is a fix for it that one of our sponsors sells. Well worth the $$. Autotrix is the sponsor.
PCV - In the sticky section there are a couple of threads about this subject. The OEM system is a POS (IMHO) Think about the LS6 VCT mod.
Free Mods - there are several free mods that you can do to help the car. installuniversity.com and ls1howto.com are 2 good sites plus our stick sections.

Good post SMWS6TA. :)

OP, I didnt realize you had tuning experience. Do you have access to a dyno to actually tune or just seat of the pants?

How much $$$ are we looking at? (it's much fun spending other people's money)


My suggestion to all who are unsure, solidify your car first. Boring and expensive, but will save your car and amplify future mods. I like Scott's plan, but my order, and this is really depepnding on how much $$$ you have, would be:

If your concerned with looks, I would get the entire thing done before going down the performance road. Get the new hood and get it detailed. I can def understand wanting a clean car, that's more important to me at times than what I've done to it.

Otherwise
1. SFC's (3 point bolt in UMI)
2. LCA's (UMI)
3. Panhard (with relocation if you plan on dual exhaust)(UMI)
4. TA w/relocation (UMI)
5. Tune (Frost, site sponsor)
6. Sway bars (.... UMI)
7. Shocks/springs (strano)
Any money left?
8. Tires (probably will say by the rear end after that)
9. Rear end
10. tower strut brace (if you feel like spending an extra $70 for no reason or need a new place to jack your car up)

I wouldn't put a any money into the motor unless it's going to a long time before the swap. If you go exhaust, you can reuse alot of it and just sell the headers only be out alittle $$$. You could reuse the y pipe and catback, or the dual exhuast system if you go that way. Same goes for other minor bolt on's, they'll sell here pretty quick.

You did the lid, so for minor motor:

Exhaust
1. budget headers <$500
2. ORY (if you enjoy rasp, no TSP)
3. catback (magnaflow)

Motor
1. Catch can
2. Ported TB (eBay)
3. Smooth bellow
4. Line lock (for track)
5. fan switch (for track)

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Originally Posted by Keith01

I got some money saved up and not sure quite where to put it. Hood, Headers, or Tuner.
New hood - I got hail damage on my current hood and want to replace it. I like the SS hood, but I got a Z28 and was leaning towards the ultra-z.
Headers and exhaust - I would love to put some headers on. Was looking at the TSP headers with either flow master 10 series or loudmouth 2 and run duals to the axle and dump it. But I'll get the ses light because I'll rip out the air pump and egr system.
HPtuners - I can tune and change various other options.



What do you guys think?

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You can buy headers that have EGR and AIR PUMP connections if you wish to retain them.

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Originally Posted by KMdef9

ORY (if you enjoy rasp, no TSP)

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Just clarifying, because the wording caught me off guard-

Get an off-road Y (without cats) if you like rasp and don't have to pass emissions.

Avoid TSP brand y-pipe due to fitment issues.

some ory's have a rasp to them. TSP ORY is crap. I've had to trim, tweak, weld to get clearance.

With a muffler like magnaflow the rasp is not as bad when compared to flowmasters

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

some ory's have a rasp to them. TSP ORY is crap. I've had to trim, tweak, weld to get clearance.

With a muffler like magnaflow the rasp is not as bad when compared to flowmasters

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Thanks for clarifying for me. Sorry OP, wrote it quick.

A catted y will always be quieter than and off road y. Typically the resulting unfiltered noise from a ORY is rasp, depending on the catback as well. I HATE any rasp, it sounds cheap and almost ricer, IMO.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

some ory's have a rasp to them. TSP ORY is crap. I've had to trim, tweak, weld to get clearance.

With a muffler like magnaflow the rasp is not as bad when compared to flowmasters

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+1 I went from flowmaster to magnaflow last week and he's right. Very minimal rasp

you also have as an option resonators to help eliminate the rasp.

Wow a lot of info.... lets see where to start, btw it takes more than that to offend lol. Just want to eliminate people that jump on the wagon and list mods from the 10 best mods thread haha. Anyway I thought ls2 block can use all the the ls1 parts except for the powersteering pump you have to drill a bolt hole?
Also I thought the TSP headers were good with no issues, it was just the ory that had issues? And for exhaust I thought rasp was mostly eliminated by running duals instead of ory? I'm not planning on running cats either, just flowmaster 10 series or loudmouth 2 mufflers. I use the paper filters, my last vehicle I ran K&N, but it was MAP. Its funny about the power window, it seems my driver side is slower than my passenger. My ls6 VCT is on order already just waiting for it to come in. Been going through a lot of oil...about 1 qt per 1000 miles and hoping its just the pcv system. Its amazing how much oil is burned and no smoke at startup or while running. I'm machining my catch can now and I hope i'll have it complete before my parts get here. Now SFC I've also been debating this one also it just didn't make my top three. Do they really make that much of a difference while daily driving? Tuning wise I play with the idle and cruising. WOT you need a dyno and i don't have access anymore. The track will also give some results. I've done the WOT shots to dial in fuel mixture than add timing till you get knock retard then just pull some timing, that will get you close also haha.

IMHO SFC's should have be a factory install. These cars flex. Look at your rear quarter panel. Just above the wheel well see if you see a crease or a wrinkle. That is from your body flexing.


Some here still like SLP it's just that the headers hang real low and seem to be a rust magnet. Makes good sound just doesn't last long.

Drivers window. The passenger side low voltage issue will effect the drivers side over time.

There's a couple of guys here that have done LS2 swaps and a couple that have done LS3 swaps. They can elaborate more on it. I have yet to do one. I'm looking at maybe an LQ9 when I decide to do one but that is hopefully a couple yrs down the road. I got other stuff to do first.

After having the ORY I'm thinking I may want to go the dual route. I'll decide after I get my e-cut out and see if that makes me happy.

Oil issue - have you checked your PCV. There is a section just behind the intake that splits into a Y. Most leaks happen there. After I did the VCT & catch can my oil consumption was drop to nil. Prior to it I was like you, had to add a 1/2 to 2/3 a quart every 4-6 weeks.





where in TX are you? Some areas like DFW have smog laws and are a PITA to get around. My dad lives in Denton and they have to conform to DFW smog laws.

My car isn't registered in tx. I was also looking at the LQ build, but in the end I think i'll stay with aluminum. I'm still in the planning stage though. Planning the build between 1-2 years from now.

Still haven't seen how much money you have to spend.