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When removing the caliper from the car (99 Transam)... What if instead of removing the two 12mm caliper-mounting bolts on the rear of the caliper, You just pull the caliper apart from the caliper frame? Actually removing those 2 long things from the frame that do not seem to have anything holding them in to it that the 12mm bolts go into?
If this is a bad thing as I suspect it is (I admit I do not know much about cars), what needs to be done to correct it?
If I'm understanding you correctly than no its not bad its what allows the caliper to apply and release pressure on the rotor. When its on the car its impossible for it to come apart like it does when its off the car.
Ok so it can just be slid back into the holes on the bracket and everything will be just like it was before.
I am so paranoid about anything pertaining to the brakes...
are you talking about the pins that the caliper rides on? Can you snap a picture of what you're talking about?
Sounds like he is removing the caliper bracket as the caliper slides are 12 mm. I agree though, a picture would be helpful...
OP: The brake caliper slides on two caliper pins. These are the 12 mm bolts with rubber boots on them. When servicing the brakes, your best bet is to use a large C-clamp to carefully compress the caliper a bit. If you are replacing the pads, you will want to fully compress the caliper to seat the piston into the caliper as the new pads will be much thicker. Only do one side at a time as compressing one caliper with another removed will result in a blown out piston on the other caliper. After compressing the piston, remove the two (2) 12 mm bolts and slide the caliper out of its bracket. Never allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose as this can result in damage to the hose. Rather, cut up a wire coathanger and fashion a hook to hang the caliper from a suitable spot.
After removing the caliper, I then also remove the caliper bracket which is mounted with two (2) 15 mm [if I recall correctly] bolts. The reason for this is that it allows you to clean out the wells that the caliper pins slide in. One of the most common issues on our brakes is seized caliper pins that result in abnormal pad and rotor wear. The rubber boots simply pop out and you can then clean out the hole with brake cleaner or whatever is handy. Upon reassembly, apply synthetic caliper grease to the pins and in the holes and then slide the pins in and out a few times to ensure that they are fully coated. If you need clarification of these instructions, just say so.
BTW: Whereabouts in PA are you?
It sounds like I am talking about the caliper pins. I apparently just pulled them out to separate the caliper from the bracket.
Any particular kind of synthetic caliper grease? How much do you use?
pajeff02
Near Pottsville. Home of Americas oldest brewery.
Most any parts store will have a bottle of the synthetic caliper grease on the shelves. No brand preference -- the stuff I have is a thick green goo and works great. You want to liberally coat the pins and bores -- if you get too much it will simply push back out as you slide the pins home. The key is to make sure the entire bore and surface of the pin is coated to prevent any corrosion from happening.
Have never been to Pottsville. Do you attend any of the Carlisle events?
Sounds like you are on the right track, OP.
caliper bracket bolts are 18mm. I lost that sucker last week and locked my wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
not that it matters much but I believe the fronts are 18's and the rears are 15's.......I think. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by JayTA98
OP....I put that lube on any place metal touches metal or parts move. I even use it on the backs of the pads instead of the red brake quiet lube and it works back there too in preventing squeaky brakes.
yup you are correct i didnt noticed the OP was refering to the rear.Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
>>Do you attend any of the Carlisle events? <<
I always plan on going... As it is only 50 minutes west of me... But always seem to find a reason not too
Well I thought I was making progress... But alas I am stuck again...
This really has been a frustrating (yet fun) learning experience...
So I decided while I was at it to change 2 studs that were giving me issues and also ordered ARP studs for when I end up changing the roters in a month or so. I changed one no problem and then noticed the 2nd one couldnt be hammered out as something is behind it. Then it hit me... How am I going to install the ARP studs that are 1 inch longer...
I am currently looking at the search function and a few pages with basic write ups... But figured I may as well post my current situation here in case my searching ability is as bad as my car knowledge ;)
I just tried ordering the longer ARP studs and they were on back order until next month. If your car has traction control, the reluctor ring may prevent the studs from being removed and/or installed. Assuming you have the stock 10 bolt, so you have to remove the cover from the rear, remove the cross bolt and spacer and then pop out the c-clips. With traction control, you will also have to remove the sensors at the end of the axle tubes. You can then slide the axles out of the car and easily change out the studs. This is a good excuse to change out the gear oil and inspect the axle surfaces for excessive wheel bearing wear and the seals for leaks.
AllensFasteners.com must of had them in stock... They shipped already and are due to arrive Monday
I have a 12 bolt rear...
No clue what your suggesting me to do lol
I downloaded an interesting video showing how to install the longer studs on the back tho and it made it looks pretty easy...
I also have a 12 bolt and started changing out the studs tonight. I was able to remove the stock studs with the reluctor ring in place and installed 3 of the longer studs, but may have to press it back a bit for the other two. Have you pulled your axles yet? I can post pics if you need me to.
I was planing on following this video for installing the studs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkZqdiq5bxA
No ive never pulled axles before... This is all new to me...
Ok -- they are removing the wheel speed sensor and are then removing and installing the studs through that hole. I have a bit of a clearance issue on my reluctor ring with the Moser studs. Also, rather than drawing them in with a lug nut and spacer, I am using my press. No reason you cannot use the method shown in the video so long as you clear the reluctor ring.