Everybody that I talked too on another forum says that a T-Rex cam 242/248 - .608/.612 - 110 lsa will work in my car with stock heads. I'm thinkin that bigger may not be better. What are your suggestions on this cam.
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Everybody that I talked too on another forum says that a T-Rex cam 242/248 - .608/.612 - 110 lsa will work in my car with stock heads. I'm thinkin that bigger may not be better. What are your suggestions on this cam.
thats not big, that is huge for a stock cubed ls1. that is a 408 stroker sized cam. unless you want a dyno queen then that just might be way too much for cam only. i mean technically speaking it will fit in the motor and run with lots of tuning but i dont thing anybody has goals that involve that cam and fitting into the cam only category. what are your goals. that is what you should be asking. if you want something that has usable power curve this is not what you want. this will give good dyno numbers for a cam only set up if you have the right bolt ons. but otherwise your looking at valve spring swaps at regular intervals, and lots of low rpm headaches. just way too much cam for a 346
My goal is to keep my car as a daily driver but wanting be in the low 12s high 11s at the track. The mods that I have is Pacesetter headers, 3" catted Y, and catback. Got a dyno tune. My friends say that its possible with this cam and a set strong valve springs. I don't know the name of the springs.
def not a recommended street cam. you want something like a 228/230 with under 600 lift. that cam is massive!
you dont need a massive cam to hit 12s. 228r will let you hit 12s. you have the exhaust, now just finish up on the intake. a lid, and an ls6 intake will be a nice upgrade for somewhat cheap if you can get them used. after that a good tune and some sticky tires. then it will all be in the driver. is your car an a4 or m6? if a4 then get a stall and that will drop plenty of time off your e.t. m6 is all in the driver and condition of the car. some m6's can break the rear under stock power if abused too much.
yes the big cam will be able to hit 11s more than likely but you will need lots of suspension work(all adjustable for daily driving, launch, and losing weight), slicks out back(not drag radials), lots of seat time, and lots of money in case something goes wrong *knock on wood*. it is definitely not just a cam swap to hit 11s. its the mods that work well together. keep in mind a high lift cam like that will need springs rated for .6xx lift and will most likely need changing every 20-30k miles. stronger push rods are needed. new hi flow oil pump is needed. new timing chain is needed. and a tune just to get the car running decently. after that perfecting the tune for performance. that should fall under 1 tune, but will take some road time and track time. rear end will be needed if the car is an m6. not to mention the a4 will probably need a rebuild if you plan to run the car ragged. lots of money and time but it is doable to hit your goals. but just swapping the cam and valve springs are not gonna get you there.
I am running a 228/230 cam, long tubes, and 3200 stall...12.15@111
With .600+ lift I'd be more concerned with PTV clearance...
didnt even think of that lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS
There are plenty of LS1 cam only cars in the 11's with much less cam than you are suggesting. Alot of them do it with 230 at .050 or less. You'll find most of these successful combinations with automatics, a good stall converter, maybe some rear gear but not necessarily, drag radials, sometimes a few suspension tweaks, but not always.Quote:
Originally Posted by White '00 Z-28
Exhaust is a given, which you have already, and alot are doing it with LS6 intakes as well. Some good air and track prep and 11's are there.
12's are cake. I'm doing that with just a converter and headers, on stock rubber even.
I disagree with most of this. You can't overcam an LS1. Trex and the G5X4 are about as big as you can fit in an LS1 and make the most power. How many times do you see these on LS1Techs fastest cam only list? http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/drag-r...s-engines.html These cams aren't for everybody but I know several guys that run them and enjoy them with great results.Quote:
Originally Posted by 00z28bubba
I don't even want to think what would happen to the 02 if I tried to raced it with the stock tires. It's all over the road with half throttle off the line now...Quote:
Originally Posted by Firebirdjones
i guess i meant to say that cam and his goals lol. probably just typing without checking what i wrote. just because his goals were ok times for cam only and daily driver.Quote:
Originally Posted by INMY01TA
Ya, mine will light them off too with too much aggression. At the same time it's not too hard to come out pretty strong.Quote:
Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS
At the track it's a bit easier if it's prepped decent. 1.92 on my only attempt on stock rubber and I believe I could have bettered that with a couple more tries. I think it's got 1.70's in it on a good tire.
I agree. These LS motors respond to camshafts extremely well, 15 degree heads are a wonderfull thing. I believe if you want to get into bigger cams than I mentioned (more than 230 @ .050) you'll find a whole lot more in the 11's or even the 10's.Quote:
Originally Posted by INMY01TA
It's just a matter of what you want to deal with on the street. Some consider it streetable, others don't.
For the record,,,,~.600 lift cams aren't that hard on valve springs. With todays ramp profiles that can be taylored for softer closing rates and such, makes the valves much easier to control. Not to mention spring technology has come a long way from years past. Plenty of daily driver .600 lift cams out there on the street without issues.
I've had my .640 lift cam on the street for about 5 years now, nothing but street driving, high rpm extended highway cruises (4.10's and no overdrive) and I go everywhere in it buzzing the motor at 3,000 everywhere I go. Dozens of dragstrip passes and I haven't even lifted a valve cover.
Thanks for the adivce. The mods that I have is of course the exhaust and a SLP lid. Am saving to get Moser axles and 4.10 gears. Don't need a stall. I have M6 Z-28. I can't run slicks here without a driveshaft loop. So drag radials is the best that I can do. There are a lot of drivers here use drag radials and hook up.
Drag radials are used successfully on 7 second cars (small sizes at that) No reason why they won't work on a mild street car. If they don't, then there are other issues (suspenion) that need to be addressed.Quote:
Originally Posted by White '00 Z-28
A good alternative to a donkey dick like a T-rex might be a TSP 233/239 595/603. Same duration as their Tsunami but on a softer lobe (gasp I recommended a TSP product lol).
Now what I would really do (and did for my current 403) is call Geoff Skinner at Engine Power Systems and have him spec you one for your setup and goals. His lobes make great power but have less jerk and are softer on the seats than other performance lobes so they are relatively easy on valvetrain parts. Well worth the extra $25 to have him spec you one IMO.....