Bad Circuit or Bad ground?

i was drivin down the highway cruise control on its bout 11 at night and out of no where my headlights shut off and right after all my gauges and interior lights also shut off i pull off too the side then my car dies, i start it bak up turn on my lights the interior lights and gauges work but no head lights, we messed with it tryin to figure it out the whole time my car is on and the battery gauge needle is goin nuts. Soon there after my reduced engine power light comes on and it dies i let it set for a minute and start it up it hasnt had any more problems with it shuttin off or reduced engine power, but still no head lights, the fuses are fine and the bulbs are good so i think its a bad circuit or im groundin out some where. but im not sure, so thanks everybody for the help. And its a 1999 firebird v6 automatic, i did just put a jet stage 2 chip in it the day before but i dont think that would do it.

Definatly sounds like something on the alternator circuit. It's possible the surge fried the head light relay or the switch. So start there. Also double check all your battery connections for corrosion and tightness.

alternator tested good, and the headlights blew there good now, but my battery needle is still movin when i brake it moves to the halfway mark, and when i flip on my blinker the needle moves back an forth a lil bit with the rhythm of the blinker....so bad battery? if so or if not im interested in buyin a yellow top optima dry cell, so if anybody got one shoot me a price or if anybody knows a website i can get one for a better deal than 200 bux at oreillys

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Originally Posted by izzhemp

alternator tested good, and the headlights blew there good now, but my battery needle is still movin when i brake it moves to the halfway mark, and when i flip on my blinker the needle moves back an forth a lil bit with the rhythm of the blinker....so bad battery? if so or if not im interested in buyin a yellow top optima dry cell, so if anybody got one shoot me a price or if anybody knows a website i can get one for a better deal than 200 bux at oreillys

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-This doesn't mean your alternator is good. I have taken the same alternator to 2 different chain auto parts stores and got 2 different results.
-My needle moves around dependsing on what I do as well and I haven't had any eletrical problems
-Don't buy optima. They used to be the best, but once they realized they were, they're quality has gone down. I know 3 people who purchased these batteries 10 years ago and they're still running. I have seen now 2 people return shot batteries that were only 1 year old. Just get a higher performance battery and save a 100 bucks.

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Originally Posted by KMdef9

-This doesn't mean your alternator is good. I have taken the same alternator to 2 different chain auto parts stores and got 2 different results.
-My needle moves around dependsing on what I do as well and I haven't had any eletrical problems
-Don't buy optima. They used to be the best, but once they realized they were, they're quality has gone down. I know 3 people who purchased these batteries 10 years ago and they're still running. I have seen now 2 people return shot batteries that were only 1 year old. Just get a higher performance battery and save a 100 bucks.

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so you dont think a dry cell is the way too go, i wanted one cause i have a system in my car and i assumed that dry cell would help

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Originally Posted by izzhemp

alternator tested good, and the headlights blew there good now, but my battery needle is still movin when i brake it moves to the halfway mark, and when i flip on my blinker the needle moves back an forth a lil bit with the rhythm of the blinker....so bad battery? if so or if not im interested in buyin a yellow top optima dry cell, so if anybody got one shoot me a price or if anybody knows a website i can get one for a better deal than 200 bux at oreillys

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Where did you install this "Jet Chip"?? Was it just a plug-and-play with the OBDII port or something else??

Check your wiring to your alternator. Sounds like a charging related problem, which is why your voltage gauge dips each time there is a load. Also check your grounds in your engine bay. There should be at least one going to the firewall as well as one behind the battery, on the strut tower.

The 3800-II also has one commimg out of the thick wire harness @ the drivers side front. It's comes out of the harness covering and goes towards and below the head light area it's a bare/flat/braided ground wire. It's not easily seen because it comes out of the portion of the harness that runs along the block on that side.

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Originally Posted by izzhemp

so you dont think a dry cell is the way too go, i wanted one cause i have a system in my car and i assumed that dry cell would help

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The best way to help your system is to add a power capacitor.

You can add a yellow top battery to your system, but I would add it as a second battery in parallel. It gives you double the current that way, however, it can ruin a stock alternator b/c it in turn requires twice as much energy to recharge the power system.

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Originally Posted by KMdef9

The best way to help your system is to add a power capacitor.

You can add a yellow top battery to your system, but I would add it as a second battery in parallel. It gives you double the current that way, however, it can ruin a stock alternator b/c it in turn requires twice as much energy to recharge the power system.

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Exactly. Alternators (AC generators) are not meant to "charge" batteries, they are meant to maintain them. If you use your alternator to charge your battery all the time, it will live a very short life.

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Originally Posted by KMdef9

The best way to help your system is to add a power capacitor.

You can add a yellow top battery to your system, but I would add it as a second battery in parallel. It gives you double the current that way, however, it can ruin a stock alternator b/c it in turn requires twice as much energy to recharge the power system.

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ive got two 12 inc. Diamond D3 subs in a sealed ground shaker box with a Diamond D3 1600 watt amp a 5 Farad power acoustic capacitor a 4 gauge 2000 watt amp wiring kit alpine type S door speakers dyna mat in the hatch and doors and an alpine head unit. and everythings wired and hooked up right

the the battery gauge moving when I signaled and dimming when I hit the brakes was my Alternator, got it replaced and it stopped. Mine also tested "good", but it was overcharging slightly. I have a 97 V6 3.8

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Originally Posted by Conflict

the the battery gauge moving when I signaled and dimming when I hit the brakes was my Alternator, got it replaced and it stopped. Mine also tested "good", but it was overcharging slightly. I have a 97 V6 3.8

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alright, im goin to replace my O2 sensors this check then next check alternator, then the battery so hopefully things get better.