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My 98 ls1 automatic was throwing a low voltage code for all for o2 sensors. I replaced all 4 sensors, deleted the codes and then all 4 of the same codes came right back on. The car pulls hard til about 4000rpms then starts studdering and will hardly make it to redline? Can anyone please help??P:eek2:
what are the actual codes? at wot you're in open loop so your o2's aren't doing the fueling. If they're lean codes though you could be running out of fuel. Any other issues with the car? Any recent mods to the car? What are your mods? Last time you cleaned your maf?
The car is bone stock. No other problems. Changed air filter and completly cleaned air box, intake tube, MAF, and throttle body best as I could without taking it off, changed the plugs and wires, and all 4 o2 sensors and tested the fuel pressure which tested good. It drives me crazy cuz I have so many plAns for this car but don't want to start any til I figure this problem out. My sister has a 98 ls1 that has the exact same problem so I figure it's something common cuz they are both in 145k range on milage but I have no clue wut to do...
What did you clean the MAF with? How did you clean it?
Specifically, what codes were thrown?
post up the codes
K gimme a couple hrs I'll have to check them again cuz I don't remember exactly wut the codes were but I use electronic components cleaner and carburator cleaner on the MAF.
I wouldn't worry too much about the MAF just yet; just post the DTCs.
P0131
P0137
P0151
P0157
these are the 4 codes my cars throws. I hope this can help someone to help me solve this problem I been having with my and my sisters car.
All are low voltage codes... causes can include major exhaust leaks that plague both sides, all sensors disconnected, no power to O2s in the harness, and 4 dead O2s and more.
I'd start by checking EVERY fuse in the car. Check those underhood as well as the driver's side dash.
Iv replaced all four, I'm pretty sure there is no exhuast leaks and I made sure there all connected. How would I go about checking for power the ground to them is bolted to the back of the motor
Is the anyone here in tulsa where I am from that could/would check the grounds where they all four meet and connect, then go the drivers side and bolt to the drivers side head on the very back of it? And if thats not it then from what im hearing the only onther thing causing the problem could that its not the ground, but the power wire(s) that go to all four o2 sensors. If there is someone willing to check the wiring and and other likely problems I would pay and I would DEFININELY do all types of trades...I would be willing to give up wheels, a flowmaster exhuast system for a f-body, i have tons of car audio and stuff like that, and I amwilling to bring it to your place amd help do all the work I jus need a lil guidance....someone please serious I know someones had this before and surely they fixed it hopefully someone can help do the physical labor...Id make it worth someones while for sure so someone please
check for low fuel pressure or faulty injectors as they can cause lean mixture
also check maf connection or see if it's damaged inside
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frost
Did you try this part? I'm not sure it is a fuse, since the +12 at key on for these also feeds the MAF but you have no MAF low Freq code...
my 98 did the exact same thing. check the fuel pressure my fuel pump had a bad o ring $1.99 and it ran good as new. good luck :)
I checked the fuel pressure. It's suppose to run between 55 and 60 psi and it was at 58. Anymore suggestions?
Are you checking fuel pressure at idle or at the time of the drivability problem. A scanner that displays data would be extremely useful in this situation. It would be nice to see exactly what the O2's are doing at 4000 rpm's.
Iv checked the fuel pressure while reving the up at and it stays inbetween 55 and 60 psi which is where it's supposed to be.
Definitely live data from a scanner would be useful. Could be an ecm problem.
I don't mean this in a negative way but maybe you should take it to someone that has the diagnostic equipment to do the job instead of shot gunning anymore parts on it. The money spent on those O2's was enough to pay 2.0hrs of diagnostic time and to someone capable should be more than enough time. Not that your dumb but it sometimes takes a ridiculous amount of tooling to diagnose a drivability problem.
This still does not mean your pump it fine. A shitty pump can easily supply enough fuel idling, revving, with no load. Actually driving is the only way to tell if it can handle it. Don't know if that has anything to do with your problem, just saying.Quote:
Originally Posted by blu98ls1