Need help on my Cam/Heads setup..

This is my plan so far, going to be gathering parts in the next couple of months. First off my family owns a custom engine shop so a engine build is no big deal.. Has been in business for over 30 years, have everything to do a motor top notch, my grandpa and uncle run the shop and build the majority of the sprint car motors here in OKC. So anything and everything I have on this motor will be ported/polished balanced and matched.

Pulling the Stock 346 out:

TSP Torquer V.2 Cam 232/234 .595"/.598"
AFR Heads 205cc? (What size CC chamber? 66?)
w/ Double Roller Adj Timing Set
w/ Ported LS6 Oil Pump
What LSA? I want a street able but rough idle. 112, 113, 114? Car is a M6.

GM Cam, Bolt Gasket Kit
w/ Cometic Head gaskets (.045 to bump the compression up a little)

F.A.S.T. 92mm Intake & N.W. 92mm TB

Clevite H Main/Rod Bearings

The bottom end will be rebuilt stock.


Let me know if you guys see anything I can improve or would be a better setup please.

The car is pretty much a Daily Driver, but I also have another vehicle... The car is garage kept so never has to start in freezing temps or anything. I want a Really fast street car/weekend warrior. I don't mind a loud/big cammed car everyday, that's why people look anyways right?

And also what about dyno numbers through the stock 10 bolt, and through the 9" I will be putting in at the same time.

Thanks guys!!

Tell me if I missed anything Thanks

Sound like a good set up there. With a tune and having a M6 you will be fine with the 112 las. What gears are you gonna have in there?

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Originally Posted by KING Z28 HAWK

Sound like a good set up there. With a tune and having a M6 you will be fine with the 112 las. What gears are you gonna have in there?

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Already have 4.10.. With the 9" going to be 4.11

you could go bigger and just get forged pistons with valve reliefs and some forged rods so you can really rev out that engine. If you are having the bottom end rebuilt then go forged.

actually I just noticed something else.. you have a 92mm intake and throttle body on there. That can be added at a later date WITHOUT tearing your engine back down. If you decide at a later date that you should have went forged on the bottom end then you are screwed. I would say if money is an issue then forge the bottom end now and do the manifold and throttle body later. Hell you could probly scrape together enough leftover cash for a used LS6 intake manifold to go with everything else for the time being.

If you look to the left, you see the camaro that I wrecked. I possibly have just what you want. I have a 383 with Callies crank and rods, Mahle pistons, 11:1 compression with AFR 205's, ls2 cheater cam from Thunder Racing. The engine made 442 rwhp, 445 rwtq on a Mustang Dyno. I have a Ford 9" with Detroit Trutrac w/3.50 gears, UMI suspension pieces. I'm asking $9,000 for the whole car which includes Kooks stainless steel headers that were Jet Hot coated, Mcleod adj master cylinder with drill mod done on stock line, Spec stage 3 clutch with aluminum flywheel. Car was perfect daily driver, no lope cam and made gobs of power. Feel free to call 856-340-6023 with any questions. I have receipts and dyno sheets.

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Originally Posted by juiced99ws6

you could go bigger and just get forged pistons with valve reliefs and some forged rods so you can really rev out that engine. If you are having the bottom end rebuilt then go forged.

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Got suggestions on the forged bottom end? I figured if I wanted to go bigger later I could do like a 408.

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Originally Posted by bigdaddy001

If you look to the left, you see the camaro that I wrecked. I possibly have just what you want. I have a 383 with Callies crank and rods, Mahle pistons, 11:1 compression with AFR 205's, ls2 cheater cam from Thunder Racing. The engine made 442 rwhp, 445 rwtq on a Mustang Dyno. I have a Ford 9" with Detroit Trutrac w/3.50 gears, UMI suspension pieces. I'm asking $9,000 for the whole car which includes Kooks stainless steel headers that were Jet Hot coated, Mcleod adj master cylinder with drill mod done on stock line, Spec stage 3 clutch with aluminum flywheel. Car was perfect daily driver, no lope cam and made gobs of power. Feel free to call 856-340-6023 with any questions. I have receipts and dyno sheets.

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Little far away but that seems like a good deal.. Going with all new stuff anyways :)

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Originally Posted by SteelmanLS1

Got suggestions on the forged bottom end? I figured if I wanted to go bigger later I could do like a 408.

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I have not personally done a forged bottom end so I can not really recommend any particular products to you. It is in my plans for when I need a rebuilt done but for now I am just saving my money and riding out what I have. Depends on how much money I have when my lower end starts having issues as to what I will get. Anyways I just wanted to strongly suggest that because you are already in there and you will have more options if you went forged. You can do a huge cam and then still spray it down the road without any worries.

If you do a search or post on here there are always people finding great deals on ebay and they are deals for quality products. Just make sure if you get it off ebay it was recommended from someone so you dont end up with a true "ebay special"

After talking it over with my Dad...

He told me "If your going to get a loan for it, might as well go big and be done".

So 408 it is

Oh boy, your taking a loan out for the 408? Well then I guess you have a whole different topic then.

If your saying go big then add a few more cubes. Go 418. Where you buying the short block?

Are you gonna just buy a block and have your dad's shop put it together? Either way, good luck on your car, Loan and all.

If you dont mind me asking, how much of a loan are you taking out for your car?

Either way, get ARP rod bolts, head studs and main studs. The rod bolts FOR SURE. Thats a big issue on alot of LS1s. From what I've seen, experienced, and been told, its one of the main causes of blown LS1s.

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Originally Posted by squee

Either way, get ARP rod bolts, head studs and main studs. The rod bolts FOR SURE. Thats a big issue on alot of LS1s. From what I've seen, experienced, and been told, its one of the main causes of blown LS1s.

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Agreed, if you are going through the trouble of rebuilding you might as well make sure some of the cheaper weak links are taken care of. This is especially true I think if you are going with a bigger cam. even with my little 226/228 cam I shift around 6500-6700 and that is as far as I feel comfortable taking a stock bottom end.