couple of questions

**ddmfla** · 04-11-2008, 05:45 PM

Hi all. First time poster here. I just bought my third fbody, an 01 ws6. This is the one I'm going to keep so I thought I'd spend a little dough. I have ngk tr55 plugs, msd wires, k&n filter, pro 5.0 shifter, hooker long tubes, no cats, dual exhaust (no x or y pipe) with flowmaster mufflers. The next upgrade will be an ls2 clutch.
How much hp am I making at the wheels? Could I get more with a crane cam tuner? It's my daily driver and it will never see the track so I won't be doing any clutch dumping. Would it be overkill to install a new 12 bolt rear before installing a head, cam, and intake package? I haven't decided which package, GMPP's ls2 conversion kit is rated at 405hp, but I was hoping to go with a more agressive package. Any thoughts would be welcome... thanks

**Y2KPewterSS** · 04-11-2008, 06:46 PM

Welcome to the site

**ddmfla** · 04-12-2008, 02:44 PM

Thanks.

**orlandofl4.8** · 04-16-2008, 10:03 PM

Your not trying to make that car faster so you can pick on poor defenseless trucks are you?

**BULLET_WS6** · 04-16-2008, 10:09 PM

Originally Posted by ddmfla

Hi all. First time poster here. I just bought my third fbody, an 01 ws6. This is the one I'm going to keep so I thought I'd spend a little dough. I have ngk tr55 plugs, msd wires, k&n filter, pro 5.0 shifter, hooker long tubes, no cats, dual exhaust (no x or y pipe) with flowmaster mufflers. The next upgrade will be an ls2 clutch.
How much hp am I making at the wheels? Could I get more with a crane cam tuner? It's my daily driver and it will never see the track so I won't be doing any clutch dumping. Would it be overkill to install a new 12 bolt rear before installing a head, cam, and intake package? I haven't decided which package, GMPP's ls2 conversion kit is rated at 405hp, but I was hoping to go with a more agressive package. Any thoughts would be welcome... thanks

here's my input... if you truly aren't dumping hte clutch at all... you have no reason to worry abotu the rear... shock is the only thing that fucks them... i know someone with 550+ rwhp on the bottle, stock rear end, and 315 mt et streets.... never had a single problem because he only street races... but the first time you hit the track with sticky tires/cam/heads... that bitch will snap

**ddmfla** · 04-17-2008, 11:06 AM

Your not trying to make that car faster so you can pick on poor defenseless trucks are you?

Last time I checked that truck kicked my ass. But I'm comin' for ya

**ddmfla** · 04-17-2008, 11:09 AM

here's my input... if you truly aren't dumping hte clutch at all... you have no reason to worry abotu the rear... shock is the only thing that fucks them... i know someone with 550+ rwhp on the bottle, stock rear end, and 315 mt et streets.... never had a single problem because he only street races... but the first time you hit the track with sticky tires/cam/heads... that bitch will snap

Thanks for the input. I probably won't be going to the track but I'll still get a Forde 9" just to be safe. Does anybody have any idea how much hp I'm making at the wheels?

**orlandofl4.8** · 04-17-2008, 09:33 PM

Originally Posted by ddmfla

Last time I checked that truck kicked my ass. But I'm comin' for ya

With just a few mods, those FBods get pretty nasty pretty quick! Last time I saw the rear of any car was your previous Camaro...I may have to see how my motor likes the 150 shot

**ddmfla** · 04-18-2008, 10:36 AM

With just a few mods, those FBods get pretty nasty pretty quick! Last time I saw the rear of any car was your previous Camaro...I may have to see how my motor likes the 150 shot

Are you gonna replace the rear or have them fix it for you? I think you're better off installing a 12 bolt.

**orlandofl4.8** · 04-19-2008, 09:49 PM

Originally Posted by ddmfla

Are you gonna replace the rear or have them fix it for you? I think you're better off installing a 12 bolt.

Ill probably just fix or replace whatever broke and take it easy for a while. I may be relocating to Oahu in the near future, and if I do truck will be going bye bye. Three "built transmission", two torque converters, and two rearends, its getting kinda old spending money to replace broken parts. The extra weight of the trucks are a lot harder on the drivetrain. My next project may be an Fbody, I was thinking a turbo setup with a 408.

**ddmfla** · 04-20-2008, 01:49 PM

Originally Posted by orlandofl4.8

Ill probably just fix or replace whatever broke and take it easy for a while. I may be relocating to Oahu in the near future, and if I do truck will be going bye bye. Three "built transmission", two torque converters, and two rearends, its getting kinda old spending money to replace broken parts. The extra weight of the trucks are a lot harder on the drivetrain. My next project may be an Fbody, I was thinking a turbo setup with a 408.

I hope that's after I get my heads and cam. You have to give me a shot at beating that truck.

**ddmfla** · 02-24-2009, 05:39 PM

Originally Posted by orlandofl4.8

Your not trying to make that car faster so you can pick on poor defenseless trucks are you?

She's finally in the shop as of Monday H!- LS2 Heads, 220/224 cam, spec stage 2 clutch, lifters, pushrods, timing chain, performance rotors and brakes, rear springs, and lower control arms.
Think I have a chance now? BTW are you working a different shift or on West Checkpoint?

**orlandofl4.8** · 02-25-2009, 07:22 AM

Originally Posted by ddmfla

She's finally in the shop as of Monday H!- LS2 Heads, 220/224 cam, spec stage 2 clutch, lifters, pushrods, timing chain, performance rotors and brakes, rear springs, and lower control arms.
Think I have a chance now? BTW are you working a different shift or on West Checkpoint?

i been hearing from brian and some others that you were stockpiling a bunch of parts. looks like it should run strong, whats the lift and lsa on that cam, hope u got some good springs too and who is doing the tuning? u really should get a custom in person dyno tune. i think i mite have to see how the truck runs on a 150 shot lol. im workin 9am to 1930 10 hrs with sat sun mon off on the west. cant wait to hear that beast run!

**ddmfla** · 02-25-2009, 11:30 AM

Originally Posted by orlandofl4.8

i been hearing from brian and some others that you were stockpiling a bunch of parts. looks like it should run strong, whats the lift and lsa on that cam, hope u got some good springs too and who is doing the tuning? u really should get a custom in person dyno tune. i think i mite have to see how the truck runs on a 150 shot lol. im workin 9am to 1930 10 hrs with sat sun mon off on the west. cant wait to hear that beast run!

It's a Scoggin Dickey (Crane Cam) with 220/224 .551/.551 with a 114 LSA. The heads are brand new and fully dressed and SD Performance said I should have no worries. The mechanic who worked on my Mustang and Camaro is doing the job. He's pulling the entire motor and tranny. He's doing the tuning and I told him not to go overboard. But I'm wondering if I should yank the computer and get it custom tuned when I get the car back. Meanwhile I have to slum it driving my girlfriend's '05 Cherokee for the next week and a half. I feel like a freakin' soccer mom. How'd you get 4day/10hour shift. Are you BDO?

**orlandofl4.8** · 02-25-2009, 06:43 PM

Originally Posted by ddmfla

It's a Scoggin Dickey (Crane Cam) with 220/224 .551/.551 with a 114 LSA. The heads are brand new and fully dressed and SD Performance said I should have no worries. The mechanic who worked on my Mustang and Camaro is doing the job. He's pulling the entire motor and tranny. He's doing the tuning and I told him not to go overboard. But I'm wondering if I should yank the computer and get it custom tuned when I get the car back. Meanwhile I have to slum it driving my girlfriend's '05 Cherokee for the next week and a half. I feel like a freakin' soccer mom. How'd you get 4day/10hour shift. Are you BDO?

That cam should have really good drivability and you will barely hear the lope. I have the 6 liter engine with comp custom 220/226 .556 .570 with a 114 LSA and I can barely hear the lope when its idleing low, which was designed to work with a blower. When your mechanic tunes the computer, have him leave the tune unlocked so you can get it retuned by someone else if you decide. I personally would recommend getting it tuned after by someone who specializes in performance tuning for GM Gen III, and IMO dont think its really worth it if your not going to get it tuned to the max to run on 93 octane. I got mine tuned through black bear performance through mail order. He mails you the tuning cable, software, and a VCM for your car that is in the ball park and you log some runs on a laptop yourself, then you send him back the computer and logdata and he fine tunes it.

Not a BDO, still the same, just have high seniority. BTW, do you stay in apopka i cut over to 441 from Ocoee and thought I saw your burgandy camaro there when you had it and now I see a blue ws6 in the drive..maybe just a coincedence?

Im gonna declare this week national pick on Derek week and inform everyone to rev at any 05 cherokees

Think I might be able to take you in my Nissan truck I been drivin for work

**RedVertTA** · 02-25-2009, 07:10 PM

Welcome.

**ddmfla** · 02-26-2009, 01:55 PM

Originally Posted by RedVertTA

Welcome.

Thank you

**ddmfla** · 02-26-2009, 02:14 PM

Originally Posted by orlandofl4.8

That cam should have really good drivability and you will barely hear the lope. I have the 6 liter engine with comp custom 220/226 .556 .570 with a 114 LSA and I can barely hear the lope when its idleing low, which was designed to work with a blower. When your mechanic tunes the computer, have him leave the tune unlocked so you can get it retuned by someone else if you decide. I personally would recommend getting it tuned after by someone who specializes in performance tuning for GM Gen III, and IMO dont think its really worth it if your not going to get it tuned to the max to run on 93 octane. I got mine tuned through black bear performance through mail order. He mails you the tuning cable, software, and a VCM for your car that is in the ball park and you log some runs on a laptop yourself, then you send him back the computer and logdata and he fine tunes it.

Not a BDO, still the same, just have high seniority. BTW, do you stay in apopka i cut over to 441 from Ocoee and thought I saw your burgandy camaro there when you had it and now I see a blue ws6 in the drive..maybe just a coincedence?

Im gonna declare this week national pick on Derek week and inform everyone to rev at any 05 cherokees

Think I might be able to take you in my Nissan truck I been drivin for work

Nope, no coincidence. That's my Trans Am.

Are there any downsides to getting a custom tune? Pace Performance usually has a good deal on hand held Crane Tuners and I was thinking about getting one of those so I can go back to stock if needed.

But before I do any of that I need to solve my wheelhop problem.The right rear wheel has been giving me problems and I'm hoping the new springs and control arms will do the trick. If not I'll probably take it to the dealership.

**orlandofl4.8** · 02-26-2009, 07:29 PM

Originally Posted by ddmfla

Nope, no coincidence. That's my Trans Am.

Are there any downsides to getting a custom tune? Pace Performance usually has a good deal on hand held Crane Tuners and I was thinking about getting one of those so I can go back to stock if needed.

But before I do any of that I need to solve my wheelhop problem.The right rear wheel has been giving me problems and I'm hoping the new springs and control arms will do the trick. If not I'll probably take it to the dealership.

If your mechanic tunes your car and you then purchase a handheld programmer, the tune that is on the car when you first plug the programmer in to your diagnostic port becomes your stock tune and the programmer saves it as a back up then becomes locked to your computer until you load that "stock" tune back onto your computer, atleast thats how my crane cams hand held worked when I bought it back in 2004. They have more of a noticable difference in gain on automatics because they can raise the shift points and stiffen up the line pressure making for faster firmer shifts. Other than that, they really dont make much of a difference in the tuning for performance...fuel and timing because they have preloaded cookie cutter tunes(one size fits all) and not every engine is exactly the same, even if the mods are exact so you can take a chance on the preset tunes running too lean etc. especially with mods like a cam and heads. Most people in this forum will tell you that a custom/dyno tune is way better and safer and Im sure if you wanted to turn it back to stock, the tuner will save your file for you and load it back to stock when you need it for little or no charge if u ask them before they tune it.

Not sure about the wheel hop, but from what I have read, LCA's and relocaters will usually do the trick, just depends on what is causing the wheel hop.

While Im thinking about it, I was bored and made some speedometer videos a while back, one was like a 20 punch holding 1st gear, another was a 30 - 80mph run and the lase is 0-100...would like to get some with the nitrous, but no way I can spray, hold a camera and a steering wheel. The link to the video is at http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoID=31156651

**ddmfla** · 02-27-2009, 11:30 AM

Originally Posted by orlandofl4.8

If your mechanic tunes your car and you then purchase a handheld programmer, the tune that is on the car when you first plug the programmer in to your diagnostic port becomes your stock tune and the programmer saves it as a back up then becomes locked to your computer until you load that "stock" tune back onto your computer, atleast thats how my crane cams hand held worked when I bought it back in 2004. They have more of a noticable difference in gain on automatics because they can raise the shift points and stiffen up the line pressure making for faster firmer shifts. Other than that, they really dont make much of a difference in the tuning for performance...fuel and timing because they have preloaded cookie cutter tunes(one size fits all) and not every engine is exactly the same, even if the mods are exact so you can take a chance on the preset tunes running too lean etc. especially with mods like a cam and heads. Most people in this forum will tell you that a custom/dyno tune is way better and safer and Im sure if you wanted to turn it back to stock, the tuner will save your file for you and load it back to stock when you need it for little or no charge if u ask them before they tune it.

Not sure about the wheel hop, but from what I have read, LCA's and relocaters will usually do the trick, just depends on what is causing the wheel hop.

While Im thinking about it, I was bored and made some speedometer videos a while back, one was like a 20 punch holding 1st gear, another was a 30 - 80mph run and the lase is 0-100...would like to get some with the nitrous, but no way I can spray, hold a camera and a steering wheel. The link to the video is at http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoID=31156651

I can't believe how ridiculously quick that truck is... Thanks for the advice H. I think a dyno tune would be better than the Crane or a mail order tune. I'll probably have to wait a little while because I've reached my budget. If the heads, cam, exhaust, and tune gets me at least 400 at the wheels I'd love it. The wheel hop is the thing I'm most worried about. I'd be really disappointed if I couldn't get that worked out.