What is wrong with my car?

[99w69kitt]

My mods are eaton posi with 3.73 Lt slp LM1 fipk K&N 80mm BBK TB HP tune 224/224 545/545 in/ex 114 LSA 125 shot NX my best time on motor 13.3 1/4 and 12.4 on nitrous in the 1/4 for the mods that i have i should be a lot faster or i'm i wrong any help will be appriciated i just ordered a tci ssf 3500 stall (which i hope will wake up my ta) + i dont know if its normal but ever since i installed my cam when i put it in reverse or drive the rpm dips 500 and the to 700 rpm please help "frustrated"!!!

[Frost]

My mods are eaton posi with 3.73 Lt slp LM1 fipk K&N 80mm BBK TB HP tune 224/224 545/545 in/ex 114 LSA 125 shot NX my best time on motor 13.3 1/4 and 12.4 on nitrous in the 1/4 for the mods that i have i should be a lot faster or i'm i wrong any help will be appriciated i just ordered a tci ssf 3500 stall (which i hope will wake up my ta) + i dont know if its normal but ever since i installed my cam when i put it in reverse or drive the rpm dips 500 and the to 700 rpm please help "frustrated"!!!

It's normal if the car is not tuned.

It's a bit backwards to do the cam and THEN the stall. The cam *needs* the stall for idle stability and to be able to get the car moving off of the line. ET is no reflection of HP at all, what is/was your MPH before and after the cam swap... that will show you where and how solid your gains were. Also, you don't mention headers and aftermarket y-pipe. They are normal mods for any cammed car, but then again, the stall usually is too.

The car should run 12.4 or BETTER without the bottle assuming you can get that thing to 60'.

[99w69kitt]

It's normal if the car is not tuned.

It's a bit backwards to do the cam and THEN the stall. The cam *needs* the stall for idle stability and to be able to get the car moving off of the line. ET is no reflection of HP at all, what is/was your MPH before and after the cam swap... that will show you where and how solid your gains were. Also, you don't mention headers and aftermarket y-pipe. They are normal mods for any cammed car, but then again, the stall usually is too.

The car should run 12.4 or BETTER without the bottle assuming you can get that thing to 60'.

i have long tube headers and ory and my 60' without n20 are 2.2 and with n20 1.8 + My car is tuned

[Frost]

Without MPH, it's all a guess, but that .4 reduction in 60' would knock off .75 from your ET easily.... which makes me point out that your nitrous gains were very small as well.

The RPM dipping is a tuning issue, you need to spend a little more time on your idle tuning. The stall alone should get you into the 1.8s or better without the jug. The car should cakewalk deep into the 11s witht he mod list you have (including the stall) if the 60's are there.

[99w69kitt]

Without MPH, it's all a guess, but that .4 reduction in 60' would knock off .75 from your ET easily.... which makes me point out that your nitrous gains were very small as well.

The RPM dipping is a tuning issue, you need to spend a little more time on your idle tuning. The stall alone should get you into the 1.8s or better without the jug. The car should cakewalk deep into the 11s witht he mod list you have (including the stall) if the 60's are there.

motor 107mph n20 112mph [without cam motor 105mph]

[99w69kitt]

so what your trying to tell me that the stall i got will be the light

[Frost]

yessir, it will be a whole different car. Honestly, it should be trapping 112-114 depending on the weight without the bottle unless you are racing under some crazy DA.

[99w69kitt]

yessir, it will be a whole different car. Honestly, it should be trapping 112-114 depending on the weight without the bottle unless you are racing under some crazy DA.

Thanks frost for your help and i know this may sound dumb what does da stand for?

[99w69kitt]

i got it Density Altitude