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05-31-2011, 10:24 PM #1
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- San Diego, CA
- Posts
- 20
Pewter- 2002 Camaro SS SLP Conv.
Performance Programer for my LS1/SS
In order to modify shift points (automatic), I need to know the factory programed rev limiter feature @ WOT. I want to limit my RPM to 5800 @ WOT. Is the factory setting at 6000 RPM? If so I'll also have to adjust the shift points to -200 RPM?
I also want to firm the shifts. Options are 25%, 50%,75% or 100% increase in firmness? I also own a 1973 Z-28 stock with headers and magna flows and installed a 2000-2200 RPM Hughes Stall converter and love this shifting feel & action.
I purchased a Hypertech for the performance street driver modifications.
Experience and Recommendations are appreciated.
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06-01-2011, 03:04 AM #2
Having a Hypertech that came with our car, I will say that nothing beats a mail order tune from Frost (site sponsor). You can spend $500 on a handheld that has limited capabilities, or $125 on a complete tune that includes transmission tweaks. Having said that, and recognizing the fact that you already have the handheld, transmission settings are really a matter of personal taste. Go ahead and experiment and see what you like.
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06-01-2011, 06:41 AM #3
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- San Diego, CA
- Posts
- 20
Pewter- 2002 Camaro SS SLP Conv.
I should have inquired before I made the purchase. Thanks. Next time.
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06-01-2011, 12:46 PM #4
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06-01-2011, 04:40 PM #5
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06-01-2011, 08:52 PM #6
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Location
- San Diego, CA
- Posts
- 5,823
2002 Z28 A4 NBM- Sadly now demodded :(
Experience: HyperTech is junk!
Recomendations: Basically none unless...
1. You've modded the car. Depending on said mods will determine what should be done. A dyno tune (performed by an experienced tuner) is the ultimate thing to do as you observe the car as it's running to make changes. It also costs a pretty penny ($300 - $500 or so + dyno time).
2. If stock then a basic tuning of the stock equipment via Frost (a site vendor) seems to be the reccomendation of several members here.
3. Pay the $$$ to acquire a good tuning suite (HP Tuners is what quite a few use) and figure it out yourself.
If you are proficient with tuning up your 73 then you may have transferable skills. You just need to get acquainted with what todays computer controlled drivetrains equates to vis-a-vis VE tables, timing tables, knock retard, injection pulse width (and a whole lot more).
Personally, while I can tune a carb and dizzy to the Nth degree I leave the computer tunng to capable individuals (although I do have a fairish idea of what's what).
FWIW, the stall you have in the 73 is basically stock. The best bang for the buck with an A4 (auto tranny) 4th gen is via a high stall torque converter. The 3400 stall in my 02 netted a .5 second reduction in my 1/4 mile ET. Before = 13.09; after = 12.559. I also had quite a few upgrades done to the tranny to allow me to do this all day long without problem as the stock 4L60E isn't world class as delivered.
Todays TC's have a lockup feature that aids in the MPG hunt. Unlike my 67 (which has a high stall non-lockup TC which results in ~6mpg around town) my 02 gets 14 or so mpg around town and 24 or so on the hiway yet it has a 3400 stall.67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...
2005 Corvette LS2/M6 Magnetic Red Metallic (What else would it be?) w/ Cashmere interior
2002 Z28: NBM/Tan, MTI smooth lid, smooth bellows, !AIR, !cats, 1-3/4" QTP SS LT's, 2-1/2" TD's with X-pipe, MagnaFlows dumped at axle, custom welded SFC's, MidWest Chassis body mount adjustable T/A, 3400 stall, 3.23 gears (was 2.73). Tuned: 343rwhp/357rwt (before TD's). Best: 12.559 @ 108+, 1.73 60' @ 3500' DA w/MT ET Street DR's.
Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!
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