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09-22-2010, 01:54 PM #1
I got my SS dyno'd for the first time today...
I could hear a slight ping above 5k RPM. The guy showed me where it's running lean. It was around 13.9-14.2 and he said since it's mostly stock it should be about 12.9-13.0
Can someone help me out with a tuner in the Norfolk, VA area or is there something I can do in order to not run lean.
It's a brand new GM Crate LS1 with 2300 miles. EGR and AIR INJ deleted. Only engine mods are LPE Lid and Magnaflow CB.
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09-22-2010, 04:43 PM #2
get a mail order from frost! cheaper and he will solve your problem
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09-22-2010, 06:10 PM #3
Dude, gather about $350 in change, and make a appointment with Frost and drive up to see him. You will not be disapointed. I did it, and will not deal with anyone else, hes a good man, knows his stuff, and its a very good price for a dyno tune.
BTW, hit us up on EDC with this, and you comming out to Hardees this weekend?02 Z28/LS1 NBM - TIN CAN RACING
Full bolt on, weight reduction mods, dyno tuned by FROST = 330hp/342tq New PB = 12.74 @109
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09-23-2010, 08:30 AM #4
+1 Go see Frost and have him work his magic.
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10-12-2010, 06:35 PM #5
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10-12-2010, 06:53 PM #6
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10-12-2010, 08:27 PM #7
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10-13-2010, 03:22 AM #8
That is why I recommended that he "go see Frost" -- TunedbyFrost.com His info and shop address in Richmond: About Frost
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10-13-2010, 05:15 AM #9
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10-13-2010, 06:15 AM #10
Ahh got ya, i sat here and i tried to figure that one out. thanks for clearing it up! I live in ohio. There are a good amount of tuners that specialize in mustangs that also do f bodies but it makes me weary. I think i would drive there, take like 6 hours possibly. Only reason i'm saying this is because i was thinking about getting my car tuned next year. Sorry to the "OP", dont want to hijack this thread.
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10-13-2010, 06:29 AM #11
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its all good
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10-13-2010, 08:20 AM #12
You don't have to drive there if you are just looking at a tune for an OEM or near stock power vehicle with bolt-ons. You mail your PCM to him, he tunes it, and mails it back to you.
Now if you have internal work done...heads/cam etc...then yes, you should get a DYNO tune in person.
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10-13-2010, 08:26 AM #13
Our car has a Frost mail order tune and we've put somehere north of 1,000 miles on it so far. The engine performs flawlessly with the mods we have and has great responsiveness and acceleration. I can watch my fuel trims, my air-fuel ratio and other sensor data as I drive and everything looks great. As Jon said, a dyno tune is certainly the better way to go, but I am 110% satisifed with my mail order tune and would highly recommend it.
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10-13-2010, 12:11 PM #14
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10-13-2010, 03:03 PM #15
Now listen, i am now about to prove that my knowledge is very shallow when it comes to tuning. Lets say i have the 00 T/A, which I do. Now lets say I have the after market lid on it, hooker headers and a full three inch slp lm exhaust. You're telling me that i could get (I'm not doubting anyone here, just wondering) a full tune for the max power just by mailing it in? Maybe if frost would chime in here. It's just that i've had problems in the past with tuning and it drove me crazy.
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10-13-2010, 04:09 PM #16
My understanding is that Frost does not provide a "bleeding edge tune" via mail order. Rather, based upon hundreds of calibrations he is able to provide a tune that works great with all the various parts combos that we throw at our cars.
Might there be more gains through a dyno tune by making finite adjustments to the VE table, dialing in the MAF, etc? Probably. But can you really feel 3-5 h.p. and is it cost effective to dyno the car every time we change something out, especially for us guys who see only limited track time? I just think that a mail order tune is an excellent option, especially if like me you have to drive hours and hours to even get to a dyno.
Now my question -- what sort of tuning problems have you had in the past?
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10-13-2010, 10:16 PM #17
I just saw this...
Assuming that your MAF is reporting as a healthy MAF would, the tune will be very close. The drive for mail order calibration creation was really the drive to work more efficiently. They are unique to the year of engine and mods, and they are the base files that I use for boltons cars on the dynos. Typically, I don't see more than 2-5 rwhp over this base when fine tuning on the dyno. Sorry to link an outside board, but I had this car about 10 days ago that was boltons and started with what he would have gotten in a mail order tune: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-di...ned-frost.html The last few HP were a result of leaning it out up top a bit. It came in at 12.6-12.7:1 at WOT over 4K. Pushing that to 12.8-12.9:1 found the other 4 HP. There was no gain when I moved timing around.
Thanks.
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10-14-2010, 08:05 AM #18
make sure you have a new fuel filter. i put full exhaust, gears, intake, and tune from frost and my first pass it felt like the car was leaning out up top. i changed the filter and dropped 2 tenths off my time because it got fuel above 3600 rpm
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10-14-2010, 07:36 PM #19
well basically, i had a 94 lt1, and the opti when out, again, surprise surprise. And instead of changing that i decided to rebuild the motor. One thing after another, before i knew it i was building a 383 stroker, new cam and heads. After all of that mess the car would never start. and if it did not to long. I sent to to about three different mechs and they couldn't start it. finally the third guy, he was in cleveland and he took the car in, started to work on it, couldn't fix it, i told him to tear the whole thing apart and piece by piece put it together right. he dropped the k member, my dad ended up calling him and told him to put the motor back in and we're coming to get it.
then the guy demanded money and after 2 years we finally just gave up. My dad said we're not paying anything since he didnt fix anything. The guy left it outside of his place for a month straight and every night had a cop come by and ticket it for being on the streets after hours. It got towed finally. We had 1000 dollars racked up in tickets. We got a letter in the mail from the tow company saying if we dont pay to get the car out it will be distroyed in 30 days. We didnt pay it.
So there is my past history with tuning. That is why i'm leary about doing anything to a motor now.
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10-15-2010, 01:20 AM #20
To Frost:
I will be getting back later this month to, hopefully, install my new LS6 intake and maybe a P&P TB. Would it better worth the drive up there in, possibly, November to get a more accurate tune rather than to just do a mail order tune?
Also, somewhat often I drive to MS, roughly 1000 miles, and currently I get close to 27mpg hwy. How much more would it be to get that ?economy tune with the switch?
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