Exhaust Bung Spacer

**pajeff02** · 10-18-2011, 04:26 PM

Per the instructions I received from Innovate, I am supposed to space my O2 sender out further from the exhaust stream. I had previously posted about how it wigs out when I go WOT or open my cutout. I am using the second bung that came pre-installed by Kooks in my driver side LT. I just could not bring myself to weld a spacer onto my stainless headers, not knowing if it was really going to be a solution to my problem. They are just too damn pretty for that!

Instead, I thought about it for a bit and decided that a spark plug anti-fouler might work. I picked up a set from a local parts store and quickly found that the tip of the sender is just a bit too big to fit. The plan was always to machine off the closed end to open it up anyway, so I chucked it up in my lathe and did so. I then began carefully opening up the inside diameter until the O2 sender fit. I do not have a micrometer to measure exactly how thin the side walls are, but it seems to be of sufficient thickness to install it into the header. This will allow me to test the sender using an extension without making a commitment that requires a grinder to undo.

This is the current setup. The gauge sender is the one to the left:

Here are a standard bung, an Innovate extended bung, and the machined anti-fouler that I intend to use:

This is what the sender looks like installed in the Innovate extended bung and the machined anti-fouler. They appear to sit at almost identical depths. Obviously, the bung would be welded to the collector whereas the anti-fouler will thread into the hole in which the sender is currently installed.

Thoughts?

**Zapper2003** · 10-18-2011, 05:27 PM

Looks good on paper..

**Knight** · 10-18-2011, 05:42 PM

You may want to use some sort of gasketing material or thread tape to help seal it to the piping. Other than that, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Interested to see the results!

**Cutlass** · 10-18-2011, 05:50 PM

Isn't the Antifouler threaded into the existing bung gonna space the sensor out farther than just the extended bung welded to the header? Might not make enough difference ro matter...but it could. Only way to know is to try it out. Otherwise, looks like a nicely modded antifouler. I had to do the same thing to my antifouler when I made a mechanical O2 simulator for my Blazer with a hollowed cat converter. I just used a drill though, not a lathe.

**pajeff02** · 10-18-2011, 06:05 PM

Since the anti-fouler threads into the existing bung, it should be just about the same height as the extended bung which would be welded flush to the collector. I'll use antiseize on the threads and go easy when I snug it down. Looks like I'll try installing it tomorrow. Thanks guys!

**Cutlass** · 10-19-2011, 06:35 AM

oh yeah, duh. you're correct. Let us know how it goes!

**pajeff02** · 10-19-2011, 11:34 AM

The fun part is disconnecting the wideband from the wire harness as I have it all tucked away behind the brake booster. It is a nice protected area but tough to get at when I need to work on it.

**pajeff02** · 10-19-2011, 04:52 PM

One of the silver covered wires in the first pic is the O2 sender harness snaking up behind the brake booster. I shoved my camera down there to get a glimpse of the connector as I couldn't quite remember what it looked like. Fortunately, I was able to release it with one hand on my third attempt.

Under the car, I used a sender socket to remove the gauge sender and then re-installed it with the modified anti-fouler extension. After I buttoned everything back up, I fired up the car to ensure that the gauge was working and after it warmed up a bit I opened the cutout. So far... so good. I'll find out real quick this weekend if this solved the problem.

**Knight** · 10-19-2011, 04:58 PM

Looks good, Jeff! Might want to think of trademarking that little adapter.....could be your hula-hoop

**Cutlass** · 10-23-2011, 07:20 PM

did you try it out this weekend?

**pajeff02** · 10-24-2011, 03:17 AM

Yes I did. PM me your address and I'll ship the thing to you in a few weeks to try. The bung had no affect on the readout... but it also had no affect on it either when I opened the cutout. It worked a few times but dropped the error code on all the remaining runs. Had a great day though and ran a couple of 12.5's. My sixty foot was about a tenth off on the cold track surface and that kept me from running as fast as the last outing.

**pajeff02** · 11-01-2011, 08:57 AM

I was going to perform a heater and free air calibration at the track this past weekend. Unfortunately, it decided to snow on Saturday and the track closed for the season. Car is on the trailer now and it will be a week or two before I unload it. May try the calibration then.

**0rion** · 11-01-2011, 10:46 AM

I know I asked you in another thread but don't remember what thread or if you replied.....where did you ground your wideband stuff at? Is it on the same ground as the cutout?

**pajeff02** · 11-01-2011, 04:55 PM

I separated the grounds and the power feed in order to isolate the wideband. You mentioned that it might be an issue when I was re-installing it and I heeded your advice.

**0rion** · 11-01-2011, 05:38 PM

what's happening with your setup just isn't making sense to me. I have my wideband closer to my cutout and have zero issues with it.......I've installed 2 others with no issues too. I feel like I'm asking questions I've already asked you so if they are sorry.....my memory sucks these days. I just know we've talked about this before. How is your wideband programmed.....meaning what does 0v equal and what does 5v equal? Also.....during warm up what does your gauge display?

**pajeff02** · 11-02-2011, 03:05 AM

I would have to plug the laptop back into it, but I went with the 0-5V settings recommended to interface with HP Tuners. On start up, the gauge display blinks while the sensor heater comes up to temp. After several seconds, it then begins working and shows a rich mixture, just as it should as the engine warms up.