Your Opinion Is Needed

**excrider121** · 08-23-2010, 08:02 AM

I'm replacing my LSD; considering the Eaton Detroit Locker @ $389.

Discuss.

**MrKid** · 08-23-2010, 10:01 AM

Is this for a stock 10 bolt?

**excrider121** · 08-23-2010, 12:11 PM

Unfortunately yes. I don't have the money to do a rear-end swap and it's my DD. School starts in less than 1 week and I don't want to dive the car any farther than I have to. Junk yard rearends aren't an option.

**LSCyaL8R** · 08-23-2010, 12:48 PM

srsly..... if it's for the 10 bolt i'll go ahead and say it...

inb4 yer just buyin time.

the stock 10 bolt is not worth investing money in. When I bought my car it had a bearing noise in the rear... now it seems to clunk quite a bit. I'm just not interested in fixing or putting any money in something that is known to be a serious weak link.

If you don't plan on dumping tons of power into the car there is no need to go too crazy on the rear but getting a reasonable 12 bolt or 9" is a sound investment in your vehicles future

**Supershafts** · 08-23-2010, 01:37 PM

Well at $389 you're only $1900 away from a Dana 60, and $650 from a 12 bolt from Currie

But it will be $389 you didn't waste....

**xmarkx** · 08-23-2010, 01:44 PM

Originally Posted by LSCyaL8R

srsly..... if it's for the 10 bolt i'll go ahead and say it...

inb4 yer just buyin time.

the stock 10 bolt is not worth investing money in. When I bought my car it had a bearing noise in the rear... now it seems to clunk quite a bit. I'm just not interested in fixing or putting any money in something that is known to be a serious weak link.

If you don't plan on dumping tons of power into the car there is no need to go too crazy on the rear but getting a reasonable 12 bolt or 9" is a sound investment in your vehicles future

my 10 bolt is making some serious noise now... I plan to run it til the wheels fall off...... literaly

**xmarkx** · 08-23-2010, 02:08 PM

It would help a little if currie put some prices up for their complete rear ends. everything else on the site has prices but the complete rear ends. they could at least have base prices...

**LSCyaL8R** · 08-23-2010, 02:24 PM

we are actually looking to get a group purchase going on some midwest chassis fab Ford 9" rears. check my thread here in the drivetrain section. gonna need a new thread if this picks up momentum.

**Supershafts** · 08-24-2010, 04:06 AM

Originally Posted by xmarkx

It would help a little if currie put some prices up for their complete rear ends. everything else on the site has prices but the complete rear ends. they could at least have base prices...

They're running a special on the 12 bolt.

I would go with the 12 bolt or dana over the 9"

**MrKid** · 08-24-2010, 04:18 AM

Excrider: Before this thread turns into a 12 bolt vs 9 inch vs Dana (and it will) let me say this. With a stock 10 bolt, you're better off let one tire fry then having both dig in. If you're getting better traction, you're multiplying the stress put on the pinion bearing, and it WILL give out. Just run in stock form till you can afford a full swap. Do it right, do it once. You may want to keep an eye open for a wrecked car with an aftermarket rear.

**excrider121** · 08-24-2010, 03:59 PM

Originally Posted by LSCyaL8R

srsly..... if it's for the 10 bolt i'll go ahead and say it...

inb4 yer just buyin time.

the stock 10 bolt is not worth investing money in. When I bought my car it had a bearing noise in the rear... now it seems to clunk quite a bit. I'm just not interested in fixing or putting any money in something that is known to be a serious weak link.

If you don't plan on dumping tons of power into the car there is no need to go too crazy on the rear but getting a reasonable 12 bolt or 9" is a sound investment in your vehicles future

You're right and I realize that it's not worth throwing money at, but priorities have to be considered.

Originally Posted by Supershafts

Well at $389 you're only $1900 away from a Dana 60, and $650 from a 12 bolt from Currie

But it will be $389 you didn't waste....

Yes, I know. I've considered it. But as a full time college student/part time worker, a new rear isn't in my financial reach until the end of next summer.

Originally Posted by MrKid

Excrider: Before this thread turns into a 12 bolt vs 9 inch vs Dana (and it will) let me say this. With a stock 10 bolt, you're better off let one tire fry then having both dig in. If you're getting better traction, you're multiplying the stress put on the pinion bearing, and it WILL give out. Just run in stock form till you can afford a full swap. Do it right, do it once. You may want to keep an eye open for a wrecked car with an aftermarket rear.

Stress on the pinion bearing? Are we talking normal stresses, or..? I had planned on replacing the pinion bearing/seal when I swap out the carrier. I work at a parts store so I can get my own parts pretty cheap.

I've got a friend that flips cars for a living, I've already given him the heads up. He owes me.

Of course with everything considered, the only reasons I'm replacing the carrier instead of the whole weak link is because of money and the car is my DD, I have no back up car. If the differential were to just suddenly fall apart and take the rest of the rear with it, I'm up shit creek w/o a paddle.

**Supershafts** · 08-24-2010, 05:25 PM

The pin bearing will just like give out.... so if you don't want to waste the money you have now and then need another $400 don't play with that rear...

Honestly, in this case you're better off borrowing some more and doing the entire rear now

**xmarkx** · 08-24-2010, 09:49 PM

Originally Posted by Supershafts

They're running a special on the 12 bolt.

I would go with the 12 bolt or dana over the 9"

prices????

**LSCyaL8R** · 08-25-2010, 07:11 AM

Just an FYI. It's more pricey than some of the rears on the market but a group of us are planning a group purchase on Midwest Chassis Ford 9" rears. There are at least 4 in right now.

Also I'm curious to know how having traction to both wheels will make your rear last longer? Back in my Ford days it was quite common for the TracLok diffs to go out and for the rears to become one wheel wonders.

I get the feeling that perhaps your LSD is worn out and the low income college student would like to continue two wheel smoky burnouts. While this is fine and you may be able to get away with it until you can afford a rear I see multiple problems with this approach.

Sure it'd be great to have awesome traction and waste those ricers on campus but that 400 bucks you spent on that diff pretty much goes in the toilet when you ARE ready for a new rear. and if you drive the car at all it's not a matter of IF you will ever need a rear but WHEN you will get one.

Which brings me to my next point. If you were to spend this money on a part that isn't strengthening your rear but simply putting more stress on an already weak part of the car then what you are doing is simultaneously decreasing your available cash and increasing the likelihood that you will bust the rear and be forced to buy a new one....

That would certainly not be an enviable position to be in.

I think everyone here will agree with me. Stick it out.... live with the one wheel wonder and put the money you would have put in the LSD aside. add to it when you can. HOARDE your money. if you are lucky then by next summer you will have the cash and you will spend your summer months doing two wheel burnouts with your shorter gears and the confidence that the whole thing isn't about to go kaboom on you.

I'm sorry if it sounds like i'm lecturing but the car is most certainly driveable, safe and reliable without the ability to bias torque. A failed posi simply means you are running an open diff.... like millions of cars around the world....

**bberretta** · 08-25-2010, 05:25 PM

I would agree with everyone but I also understand you money situation. My question is why isn't a junk rear an option? If you can find a stock rear to throw in (who cares the gear or posi) then you can save the money up and as long as you don't beat the rear to crap you can Craigslist that rear when you get the money up for a better one and get your $400 back. Just an idea.

**xmarkx** · 08-25-2010, 06:30 PM

Originally Posted by bberretta

I would agree with everyone but I also understand you money situation. My question is why isn't a junk rear an option? If you can find a stock rear to throw in (who cares the gear or posi) then you can save the money up and as long as you don't beat the rear to crap you can Craigslist that rear when you get the money up for a better one and get your $400 back. Just an idea.

because it's way cooler to say you have a Detroit locker then to say you got a junkyard rear end....

**bberretta** · 08-25-2010, 06:48 PM

Originally Posted by xmarkx

because it's way cooler to say you have a Detroit locker then to say you got a junkyard rear end....

Ooops. Missed that memo!

**excrider121** · 08-26-2010, 06:41 AM

Originally Posted by xmarkx

because it's way cooler to say you have a Detroit locker then to say you got a junkyard rear end....

That's an added plus, but not the reason. I don't know how the junkyard part was treated, and knowing my luck, I'll put it in my car and 60 days later be in the same boat if not worse.

**bberretta** · 08-26-2010, 08:07 AM

If I were just trying to get by until I could afford to do something more I'd go with the cheapest rear I could find- maybe one out of a six-banger but definately an automatic. I know, I know, you'll lose that badass 3.43 gear and the broken posi, but from what I can tell, that's not doing much for you now. Get something and limp through the year it'll take to save up $3-4k to get a good setup. Just go easy on it and do what you have to in order to do the job right. I've already been through the wasting money to rebuild the stocker and now I'm regretting having spent the money and I should have saved it and put it toward the MWC 9". If I had just bought a junker to hold me off, then I could have at least sold the junker when the 9" got here.

**excrider121** · 08-26-2010, 09:21 AM

That's what I'm thinking about doing. I think you guys have persuaded me just to wait. I appreciate all the advice. I think I'm going to see if I can just gut the carrier and leave my car with the one wheel squeal for a while.