T56 issue

**32vredsnake** · 05-01-2013, 09:24 AM

I have a 2002 T/A WS6 M6.
This past Saturday I hut it from 3rd through 5th twice. I have been trying to fix the sowing machine noise and it felt great finally. Then the pedal got stuck to the floor and it would not allow me to shift. Now I purchas ed this car about a month ago with 64k on the clock. This would be the 3rd time this happens. The dealer where I purchased it took it to a transmission shop and had tge clutch replaced and the slave cylinder replaced. I called the shop and the verifies that they did get a new clutch that was provided by the dealer and a new slave cylinder that included a new throwout bearing. The resurfaced the flywheel and bleed the clutch fluid line.
Now what is happening is when I turn on t. Car I shakes pretty hard for a bit then kind . Settles down however still shaking. I can put it in gears but will not move and i hear a wining noise when the clutch is in. Still there without the pedal in but its louder with the clutch engaged.
A buddy of mine is saying the input shaft, two other are saying the master clutch cylinder to upgrade to the Tick Master cylinder. Looking for advise ans opinions on the issue.

Here is a quick video of it.

**Smileyou** · 10-28-2013, 09:30 AM

This exact issue is happening with me after I got stuck in first gear after giving it some gas. What turned out to be your problem? Pm me if you could.

***SMWS6TA*** · 10-28-2013, 09:47 AM

Take a look at your Master Cylinder Reservoir - check to see if it has the correct fluid level, next the rubber "thing" (Can't remember its name) does it look normal, not swollen?
If so post back. It means you have a major issue.

It sounds like chatter from the disk, Do you have any vibrations coming off the clutch pedal or even shaking the car while it is engage? disengage?

Resurfacing a fly wheel tends to lead to more problems then it sloves. If too much is taken off the flywheel can become fragile and may need to shim the slave.

Another cause of stuck pedal is the fluid is too hot. There are heat shields that the hydraulic hose routes under to protect it from the exhaust temps. Also several hard passes can heat up the fluid too. If the shop forgot or most likely lost them this might be the reason. Doesn't hurt to look.

OEM vs Tick MC -The tick is a great upgrade. It fixes an issue that the OEM MC has (There is an orface that tends to restrict the fluid, on high rpm shifts it prevent the fluid returning to the reservoir. Which sucks if you're at the track...

**Smileyou** · 10-28-2013, 11:15 AM

I drained the fluid since I am taking the transmission out. What would be the issue if it was swollen?

Heres what happened to me.

Car was having hard shifts... shifts got harder so I bled the MC..

Shifts got smoother but did not get back to normal.

2 Days later... In first gear at 3500 rpm and I gave it moderate full throttle gas until 6500-6600 and then I tried to shift to second and the transmission wouldnt come out of second. I tried to take the car out of gear and it wouldnt come out. The engine continued to engine brake from the high rpm which was scaring me. So i pulled real hard again while pumping the clutch. The car finally came out of gear and then I heard started hearing a clack clack clack and the car wouldnt go into any gear with the clutch.
When i turned the car off I can put it in any gear....but when i push in the clutch pedal the clutch doesnt dis-engage and the car tries to move forward. When Its put in neutral and started you hear a clack clack clack and when you press the clutch down it clacks quieter... like 50% less audible. Ive taken the transmission almost off now and i can spin the t/o bearing without hearing any audible noise. So im going to finish taking the transmission off when I come back from school today. Because I called RPM transmissions and CMS and they both think its either pilot/throwout bearing/ master cylinder or clutch.