Proper u-joint for factory LS1 aluminum ds and moser 9 in

[99RedTa6spd]

Need the right u-joint for my drive shaft, for now I will be running a factory LS1 aluminum shaft with a moser ford 9 inch rear. After a little searching it looks like the correct one is a 1350, can anyone confirm this? If it isn't correct does anyone know what the proper # is? Also any recommendation on brand? Need to get it done tomorrow so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction...

[2002ssslp]

Spicer 1350 joint.

[pajeff02]

Actually, I think he needs a combo joint. It's 1320 for the stock driveshaft and a 1350 for the aftermarket rear.

[2002ssslp]

Does Spicer make this type of joint ??

[Firebirdjones]

Yup, need an adapter joint, and here are the spicer numbers for you.

Depending on whether you start with a 1310 or 1330 joint on the driveshaft

1310 adapter joint 5-460x spicer

1330 adapter joint 5-438x spicer

You'll have to measure your driveshaft u-joint to determine whether you have a 1310 or 1330. A 1310 has a span of 3.219" across the snap rings. A 1330 has a span of 3.625" across the snap rings.

Once you know the spread, you should be able to take that spicer number and cross it to any brand at your favorite store.

[SMWS6TA]

Also if it's the OEM u joint you will need to either have a good vice or a really hot torch to break free the nylon in the factory u joint. Propane doesn't get hot enough, trust me I know.

Great thing about aftermarket u joints. No more nylon....

[pajeff02]

Wonder why I had 1320 in my head?

[Firebirdjones]

Close enough right?

I run one of these combination joints in my wifes car but can't honestly remember if these LS cars used a 1310 or 1330 to begin with. I want to say 1310 but it's been so long since I've been under the car.

General rule of thumb (at least throughout the 50's-60's-70's and even the 80's) is that chevrolets almost always used 1310's, and you would commonly see 1330's under the Fords. There are variances but that's the most common scenario.

[pajeff02]

Here is a great resource for u-joint identification: U-Joint series identification

[99RedTa6spd]

Well unfortunetly I saw the correct replies too late, here is what I did: I ordered the 1350 u-joint and when I got it I realized the caps weren't correct for the driveshaft side, I also happened to have a brand new factory u-joint, I noticed aside from the caps they were identical. They shared the same casting number and were sized the same, so I ended up swapping two caps and installed it. it seemed to fit properly and seems to function just fine.. Is this an acceptible solution?

[Firebirdjones]

Well unfortunetly I saw the correct replies too late, here is what I did: I ordered the 1350 u-joint and when I got it I realized the caps weren't correct for the driveshaft side, I also happened to have a brand new factory u-joint, I noticed aside from the caps they were identical. They shared the same casting number and were sized the same, so I ended up swapping two caps and installed it. it seemed to fit properly and seems to function just fine.. Is this an acceptible solution?

Not going to work. The bearing journals are sized differently. Might feel fine in your hand but eventually it will eat itself.


By the way, since you put a standard 1350 joint in and that apparently fit your driveshaft after putting the smaller caps on, that tells me the factory joint is indeed a 1330 because the 1330 and the 1350 share the same outer dimensions of 3.625" (or 3 5/8") The only difference between the 2 are the diameters of the caps (1.062 vs 1.188) However as I said the internal bearing journal sizes differ as well. Can't just swap caps. I wish it were that easy.

[pajeff02]

Napa has adapter joints. Not sure about the other chain parts stores.