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Thread: Pinion preload
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10-07-2006, 01:18 PM #1
Pinion preload
So I had my pinion seal replaced at a local shop that is "the" place to get work done on fbodys around here. I was in the shop with him when he did the work. The seal had been replaced before at the dealer and they did a crap job. It started leaking around the pinion nut. This time when the seal was replace he put a little silicon around the threads and it is bone dry. The only problem is he didn't check the preload first (I didn't question it). When he tightend the nut back down he just used a torque wrench and must have overtightend it a bit. Now I get a bit of whine on the highway. I also noticed when I have the rear off the ground and turn the wheels it is tighter and kinda notchy. Now I just want to do it myself so its done right. Is there anyway to replace the crush sleave and tighten the nut down to about a 1/16 of on inch less than where it is now? Or is there another way to get the preload right without knowing where it was before? I'm guess that if I can get it a 1/16" or so less it should be pretty close. Any info would be great thanks.
By the way its the auburn option on a 99 ss camaro.Last edited by Inoashortcut; 10-07-2006 at 01:27 PM.
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10-11-2006, 11:26 AM #2
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Glen Carbon, IL
- Age
- 45
- Posts
- 397
Silver- 2000 Camaro SS
Yes, basically the same as changing the pinion seal except: pull the bearing out then the crush sleeve, installation is reverse. It is a major PITA to get the right preload with crush sleeves. It takes about 300 ft lbs. Take your time and check preload every 1/8-1/4 turn of the pinion nut.
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10-13-2006, 02:15 AM #3
Ok, So I don't need to remove the pinion all together? Do I pull the crush washer out the front or something?
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10-19-2006, 12:15 PM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- MD
- Posts
- 577
The pinion must come out to replace the crush sleeve. You will want to replace both pinion bearings and races if the preload was incorrect and was driven.
You will need a large (30" or larger) pipe wrench that opens far enough to hold the pinion yoke, a large breaker bar (again, 30" or larger) to set preload. Once the nut gets very hard to turn, check the torque to turn with a beam or preferrably dial torque wrench. Recheck every 1/16" to 1/8" of a turn. You'll want 28-30 in/lbs on new bearings, and add 10 more with the carrier installed. Too much preload on the crush sleeve and you'll need a new one.
If you've never done this before, I would recommend a pro. The tools alone are expensive if you don't already have them.
BTW - The only way to properly replace pinion seals on these rears is to reference mark the nut to the pinion before removal, and to match it upon install, with an extra few degrees of tightening (even then its a gamble). Preferred method is to leave it alone if a minor leak, and if a major leak, its best to overhaul to whole rear - you'll likely be doing it soon anyway Using a torque wrench to reinstall the nut is pointless... how do you know what torque to set it to?
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10-28-2006, 07:06 AM #5
You cannot reuse the crush sleeve. Once it has been overcrushed it is no good. The pinion must be removed to replace the crush sleeve.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...98Camarod3.jpg
241's l Comp XER 230/230 Cam l SS4000 l Juice
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11-07-2006, 01:34 PM #6
quick easy way to reuse the sleeve without removing it is to add a shim to it then retighten to specs
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