Moser from HELL!!!

[Eganslp]

Yes that's right!!!! I'll tell you guys why; first: I ordered through TSP which I had mistakingly blamed them an I'm in the wrong for that one, but moser no no I know I'm not wrong. I had made a previous thread about that. But like I said I am in the wrong for blaming them. Which some of you guys help me see i should've did my homework. True!! Second: I had got the rear end & it's been a nightmare ever since. I had ordered it to comply with stock driveshaft, trans, wheel pattern, & factory brakes. And did it come ready to install? No, no not at all!!! Here below is a list of s••t that I had to do it order for this beautiful piece had to go in, which cost me $3150 already.
1) Had to buy paint primer/blk/sealer? Why? It could've rusted on the way to me, Right?? So why didnt they at least seal it??? $47
2) Had to pay for truck freight which would mean semi, Right? Ok fine $243 for it. So then why did it come on a reg. UPS truck in pieces! Y?? I'm dissevered money. I feel!!
3) Also since it didn't come together I had to get bearings pressed on that was $70. Of course after finding out that I need to steal the ebrake mounts and brake lines(which also dont fit) off of my perfectly good working rear which I intended to sell to recoup some money bac, but now has to be rebuilt. thank god that the guy knew 9"er's cuz I would've just got them pressed on and never knew till got back to install it and then been out bearings too. I would've been furious which I already was, but none the less he's the guy who came back to help me put it together afterwards.
4) So now that I have the bearing on and the rear in, my driveshaft does not line up the yokes are different so I had to call up Moser myself and get the conversion u-joint # which was a 447 or a 448 he didn't even know so I go buy that too $30ea. i had to buy both cuz no one knew WTF they are doin and took it to get pressed in. In which I found out is more difficult to do b/c of the aluminum so the speed shop wouldn't do it and had to take it to a driveshaft specialist and then he said he do it but didn't know about that u-joint part # and it was made out of. So he said that it could rust out the aluminum. The # he gave me was completely diff # then what moser said. So nobody there at moser knows what the he'll they are doing aside from the welders themselves. Long story short it ended up costing me $270 for that driveshaft to work properly and get rebalanced.
5) K rearend's in finally, and ready to I take it for it's break-in drive and then boom. Everytime I shift it slams into gear sort of like that automatic neutral slam. Where its in park and you put it in gear and slams into it. And that happens to every gear so while Im out I thought my trans went so I had stopped and droped it off at a trans shop cuz I didn't wanna damage the rear. He told me the next day after he took it out that "it was just the rev. Gear missin some teeth that's why it won't stay in rev. But this had no effect on the other gears he," said. I said "well ok I'm just gonna upgrade it anyway while it's out" cuz that costing me $600 just to take it out/put back and didn't wanna pay that again later so that cost me $1525 total for that which I guess kind of needed anyway some where down the line when I can afford to add power to it. But from what he told me it was the rear pinion has 2-3"s of play. ••••'n great!!!! So they asked "if i had put this together." I said," yes." But what he was talking about was the center section itself. I told him "no that came as is, I just bolted it to the housing and slid axles in." "K well then you didn't do anything it was mosers fault. I'd call them up he said. They ••••'ed the backlash up."
6) he also told me that my non-adj torque will work but I can't fine tune to drag set-up which I think he said that the pinion has to face the ground at -2* so I gotta go buy that and that $500
7) & lastly No oil, which is fine I'll eat that one cuz I know it does not come shipped with oil fine. $21


I can't believe I paid that much for a rear that still doesn't work and now I have to unbolt it and send the center section back and het them to send me a new overnight


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[az gt eater]

damn,after all that money,i'd be beside myself.

[bberretta]

Wow. Just wow. I'd be pissed after all that too, but at some point someone should have told you what to expect- what parts were expected and what expenses you could expect after the fact. I know when I purchased my MWC I knew exactly what to expect- what oil to get, what additives to get, what parts to send them so that they could assemble it for me, etc. I know TSP isn't to blame, but even as a reseller they should be able to stand up and help fight on your behalf.

[Cutlass]

Yes that's right!!!! I'll tell you guys why; first: I ordered through TSP which I had mistakingly blamed them an I'm in the wrong for that one, but moser no no I know I'm not wrong. I had made a previous thread about that. But like I said I am in the wrong for blaming them. Which some of you guys help me see i should've did my homework. True!! Second: I had got the rear end & it's been a nightmare ever since. I had ordered it to comply with stock driveshaft, trans, wheel pattern, & factory brakes. And did it come ready to install? No, no not at all!!! Here below is a list of s••t that I had to do it order for this beautiful piece had to go in, which cost me $3150 already.
1) Had to buy paint primer/blk/sealer? Why? It could've rusted on the way to me, Right?? So why didnt they at least seal it??? $47
2) Had to pay for truck freight which would mean semi, Right? Ok fine $243 for it. So then why did it come on a reg. UPS truck in pieces! Y?? I'm dissevered money. I feel!!
3) Also since it didn't come together I had to get bearings pressed on that was $70. Of course after finding out that I need to steal the ebrake mounts and brake lines(which also dont fit) off of my perfectly good working rear which I intended to sell to recoup some money bac, but now has to be rebuilt. thank god that the guy knew 9"er's cuz I would've just got them pressed on and never knew till got back to install it and then been out bearings too. I would've been furious which I already was, but none the less he's the guy who came back to help me put it together afterwards.
4) So now that I have the bearing on and the rear in, my driveshaft does not line up the yokes are different so I had to call up Moser myself and get the conversion u-joint # which was a 447 or a 448 he didn't even know so I go buy that too $30ea. i had to buy both cuz no one knew WTF they are doin and took it to get pressed in. In which I found out is more difficult to do b/c of the aluminum so the speed shop wouldn't do it and had to take it to a driveshaft specialist and then he said he do it but didn't know about that u-joint part # and it was made out of. So he said that it could rust out the aluminum. The # he gave me was completely diff # then what moser said. So nobody there at moser knows what the he'll they are doing aside from the welders themselves. Long story short it ended up costing me $270 for that driveshaft to work properly and get rebalanced.
5) K rearend's in finally, and ready to I take it for it's break-in drive and then boom. Everytime I shift it slams into gear sort of like that automatic neutral slam. Where its in park and you put it in gear and slams into it. And that happens to every gear so while Im out I thought my trans went so I had stopped and droped it off at a trans shop cuz I didn't wanna damage the rear. He told me the next day after he took it out that "it was just the rev. Gear missin some teeth that's why it won't stay in rev. But this had no effect on the other gears he," said. I said "well ok I'm just gonna upgrade it anyway while it's out" cuz that costing me $600 just to take it out/put back and didn't wanna pay that again later so that cost me $1525 total for that which I guess kind of needed anyway some where down the line when I can afford to add power to it. But from what he told me it was the rear pinion has 2-3"s of play. ••••'n great!!!! So they asked "if i had put this together." I said," yes." But what he was talking about was the center section itself. I told him "no that came as is, I just bolted it to the housing and slid axles in." "K well then you didn't do anything it was mosers fault. I'd call them up he said. They ••••'ed the backlash up."
6) he also told me that my non-adj torque will work but I can't fine tune to drag set-up which I think he said that the pinion has to face the ground at -2* so I gotta go buy that and that $500
7) & lastly No oil, which is fine I'll eat that one cuz I know it does not come shipped with oil fine. $21


I can't believe I paid that much for a rear that still doesn't work and now I have to unbolt it and send the center section back and het them to send me a new overnight


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The "issues" with painting, needing a conversion u-joint, torque arm, no gear lube, and brake lines are all normal. The rearend coming in peices is also somewhat normal because you can't swap over all the brakes with the axles in place. The bearing probably weren't pressed on in case you need to swap over and press on the reluctor rings for the traction control.

Can you describe the truck freight thing a little bit more? I'm sure a regular UPS truck wouldn't handle a 200 pound rear end. It would have to be a freight style truck with a fold down liftgate

Also describe the 2-3"s of play in the pinion. Did you mean .002 to .003" of rotating play or up and down or what?

[pajeff02]

^^ What Cutlass said.

I also have a Moser 12 bolt. You had a choice of ordering it powdercoated or in bare steel. I ordered mine bare and painted it. Swapping out the reluctor rings and e-brake hardware was easy. This stuff was in need of attention anyway and I restored and detailed it as part of the swap. The Moser comes with a 1350 style u-joint -- much stronger than the stock u-joint. You can get a conversion from NAPA, as you described. I did end up ordering a shorter driveshaft, plus I wanted to upgrade that as well for track use.

Having swapped a Moser 12 bolt into our car, I really do not see anything in your post that is of major concern. My only issue was fabbing the e-brake brackets to work with the adjustable LCA mounts. My rear is certainly noisier than the stock unit, but I attribute that in part to my tunnel mount torque arm. I measured my backlash at just a tic over .010" -- which is on the loose side.

Details and pics of my install in this thread: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127890

[MrKid]

^^^ What those two said.

There are dozens of write ups on installing these rear ends. They all explain what is needed. If you work on cars quite a bit, you learn that nothing is actually "bolt in".