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  1. #1
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    2002 Trans Am

    Moser 9in fixing to be put in

    Well I picked up my 02 Trans Am not very long ago; less than a month. I was on my road trip to go get my boys for the weekend and first time take the car down to go pick them up from Fort Hood to North Houston area. On the way back I was hearing a whine news really loud.
    who ever had this car before me took the spare tire out and so I just thought maybe it was just from not having anything there and being a hatch.
    So I was about a hour and half from home and thought maybe I will give it a little gas and suddenly something just started slapping the bottom and it was so loud that it was killing me by time I got home.
    Anyways long story short I took it to a shop the next morning and broke off a tooth, for a price of "rebuild" just did not seem worth it to me and I figure down the road be around 500rwhp (its stock right now, but single chamber flow and K&N filter) just can't hurt to plan ahead.
    Got on the phone the next day Moser was open and order a whole new 9in rear axle kit with 31spline and 3.73 gears. Then went ahead and order a DiabloSport InTune for it. I'm running a auto trans. Anyways it came in yesterday and was amazed at how big it was compare to stock.
    Question: it is the bolt in one, is there any modding that has to happen like with the PHB or anything for putting that rear end in there?

    Well any comment on the Moser 9in I would like to hear, I've always been a Mustang guy and new to the F-bodies.

    ASh
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  2. #2
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    I will be getting a dyno tune later for it, but just wanted to get the tuner now so I can do the different gears

    ASh

  3. #3
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    I installed a Moser 12 bolt in our car about 4 years back. Should just be a bolt in, although I recommend you check your driveshaft length. I ended up going about 5/8" shorter as the stock driveshaft was pretty close to the transmission tailstock. I presume you'll need to swap your backing plates and such over to the new rear. On ours, I also had to press the reluctor rings off the stock axles and install them on the Moser axles.

  4. #4
    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    02 Camaro SS, 04 GTO

    The Moser 9" rear will last you a lifetime with an automatic transmission. If you got all the goodies such as mounts and backing plates ( If you are using bigger brakes ) Just make sure your driveshaft fits and you are set.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

  5. #5
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Here's the install thread on our 12 bolt: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/bidding...-adieu-127890/


    Ahhhh, the memories. I seriously enjoy wrenching on our Trans Am.

  6. #6
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    thanks
    I hope the stock driveshaft works, I would figure Moser would have let me know if there needed to be a change on the driveshaft.
    I will check out the link

    ASh

  7. #7
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    They never said anything in the instructions about swapping out the driveshaft.

  8. #8
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    very nice write you, just looked through the whole thing
    I wonder if there is a diff with the 9in and 12bolt on hook up to the drive shaft. I am curious to know so if I need one I can go ahead and order the thing, sucks but is what it is. the moser diff cover looks amazing, I just got the stock moser on they sent with it. I will have to make a change down the road. I am just curious to know about the Drive shaft

    ASh

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    They never said anything in the instructions about swapping out the driveshaft.
    I do not know if you called them, but being over the phone, I know I told the guy I wanted everything that I needed to bolt it in, being that if I needed a drive shaft I would have thought common sense would have told the guy to tell me but I do know
    I still wonder if the 12bolt and 9in are different at the drive shaft hook up part.
    thanks for everyones input

  10. #10
    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    The 12 bolt and 9" as well as the S60 are much larger rear ends and in being larger they take up more space. Since the axles are centered in a set position the additional space is taken up front to rear and in your case the "hogs head" front yoke is further forward and you must resize your existing driveshaft. It is easy to measure and a professional shop can make the adjustment in one day. It is also a good time to have new U-Joints installed and have your shaft rebalanced.

  11. #11
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    The new rear probably is set up for a 1350 style U-joint, and I think our cars came equipped with 1320's from the factory. With the new driveshaft, I just went with 1350's front and rear. If you can use your stock driveshaft, you'll probably need an adapter U-joint that has both 1350 and 1320 size caps. Should be able to buy one at your local Napa. Also, no rear cover on your 9" -- center section mounts to the axle from the front.

  12. #12
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I run a Strange 12-bolt with the stock driveshaft, works just fine.

    The 9" however could be a different story, since the 3rd member is a bit larger.

  13. #13
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    So what is the thought here, go ahead with the new rear end? is the PST 3.5 the one to go with and is KY speed the cheapest place to get one? I'm in TX so closer would be better

    ASh

  14. #14
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    I went PST, but think it is 4" in diameter:

    Last edited by pajeff02; 11-30-2014 at 02:25 PM.

  15. #15
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Well, my opinion is that if you are going to throw power at the car anyway later down the road, you may as well just do the driveshaft along with the rearend and be done with it.

    Also, if you don't, and you find out the stock shaft is a bit too long, then you'll be stuck another couple weeks ordering and waiting for a driveshaft to get there all the while the car is down.

    Strange, Moser, PST, should all have the correct measurement for a 4th gen driveshaft so the order can be placed along with the rearend, and you'll have both at your doorstep.

    What I did for some added strength and literally no cost (doesn't help those that need a different length) is removed the whimpy aluminum shaft and installed a factory steel shaft from a 93-97 4th gen. I at least have piece of mind it won't twist like a prezel so easily.

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  17. #17
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Photobucket must be having issues...

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Well, my opinion is that if you are going to throw power at the car anyway later down the road, you may as well just do the driveshaft along with the rearend and be done with it.

    Also, if you don't, and you find out the stock shaft is a bit too long, then you'll be stuck another couple weeks ordering and waiting for a driveshaft to get there all the while the car is down.

    Strange, Moser, PST, should all have the correct measurement for a 4th gen driveshaft so the order can be placed along with the rearend, and you'll have both at your doorstep.

    What I did for some added strength and literally no cost (doesn't help those that need a different length) is removed the whimpy aluminum shaft and installed a factory steel shaft from a 93-97 4th gen. I at least have piece of mind it won't twist like a prezel so easily.
    I get what your saying for sure, I just did not want to have to drop the cash right now if I did not have to, being that I already thrown the money on the Moser 9in, the Moser rear end is already here, that would be the thing is waiting on the driveshaft to get here and then i'm stuck like chuck and just waiting on the driveshaft.

    ASh

  19. #19
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    here some of the notes about the 3.5 one
    * 1350 Spicer Series: Manufactured with OEM tolerances and treated with our Cryogenic Process to yeild the strongest U-Joint available. For drag racing applications a solid non-lube design U-Joint is recommended (included) because of the tremendous initial shock load, or short duration of high torque the joint must be able to withstand.

    Note: This driveshaft is designed to replace the factory driveshaft when used with an aftermarket rear-end that has a 1350 yoke.


    again getting this off of the kyspeed.com website

    ASh

  20. #20
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    I am fairly certain I had to take a measurement on our car when I ordered the PST.

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