M6, rear durability, street tires?

[Aetos]

Just wondering, lots of threads and posts differentiate the frailty of the stock 10 bolt.

My question is a pretty specific one, but can vary depending on the car.


What are the chances a mostly stock WS6, with street tires (275s), and stock rear end driven by an M6 can last? What "clutch dumps" can the stock 10 bolt hold with an M6? I'm wondering because I dumped at 4k just to see the smoke show, but I'm wondering if I'm endangering the 10 bolt by doing this? Most posts that I have read concerned the stock rear running sticky tires. How about street tires though? I'm guessing they're not as bad because they just won't get traction with higher revved dumps.

One more question, at what power, while using street tires, do you think a stock rear end can hold through an M6?

[JoshieDoom]

Your 10 bolt might live a while and it might explode in 10 minutes.. they are really weak and if your dumping the clutch time after time you might as well save for 9". I dont think its neccesarily how much power it can hold its how much slamming it will endure. Stock HP with break it like a twig, especially if it hooks.

[LS2Tuner]

Put it this way. . . . . . . . . . . . . I have many cars with 150-180 shots of nitrous and drag radials that have the stock 10 bolts with NO issues. You are stating with street tires and dumping the clutch @ 4000, DON'T WORRY it should be fine. Your not putting major stress on it until you begin to hook up. Blowing the tires off isn't putting a major load on the ring and pinion or axle shafts.

[Aetos]

Put it this way. . . . . . . . . . . . . I have many cars with 150-180 shots of nitrous and drag radials that have the stock 10 bolts with NO issues. You are stating with street tires and dumping the clutch @ 4000, DON'T WORRY it should be fine. Your not putting major stress on it until you begin to hook up. Blowing the tires off isn't putting a major load on the ring and pinion or axle shafts.

Thanks, thats what my rationality was. On street tires my chances of hooking on that type of RPM is very very very little if any. No traction = no real damage to the rear end.

But, as you can see, other people think different as shown by the 1st reply. This is why I'm a little iffy on what my stock 10 bolt can handle or if I should be PRAYING every time I push the car on street tires.


edit: off question, but at what RPM would I usually see the best launches with street tires? ( launch techniques? dump clutch, lightly engage clutch, feather throttle?)

[Mr. Luos]

Try to avoid donuts.
Those tend to tweak the housing causing issues.

[RARON455]

Keep in mind about all the trash talk of the stock rears, people who are breaking them are very rarely ever doing it with a stock combo. You cant add 150 or more HP to your stock vehicle and expect all the other parts of the car to last and perform indefinately, why because it was not designed for that. People crack me up when the beat the crap out of stock parts, cause the failure themselves and then knock on the stock parts, your kidding right?
I have a M6 in mine with LS6 intake, CAI, headers, Y-pipe, and 3.73 gears that I put in and will put money on mine that it will take a 5500 rpm clutch dump and not blowup any day of the week. To everyone who says try that with slicks on the track I say this, When did GM put slicks on the car? I am not bragging about the 10 bolt by any means it is what it is a stock rear end. There are alot of people who must have the 2000 dollars laying around to replace their rearend because they have been told it will explode. I say when it pops If it was because of YOU then you need to put something in that can take YOU.
Just my 2cents

[Aetos]

Keep in mind about all the trash talk of the stock rears, people who are breaking them are very rarely ever doing it with a stock combo. You cant add 150 or more HP to your stock vehicle and expect all the other parts of the car to last and perform indefinately, why because it was not designed for that. People crack me up when the beat the crap out of stock parts, cause the failure themselves and then knock on the stock parts, your kidding right?
I have a M6 in mine with LS6 intake, CAI, headers, Y-pipe, and 3.73 gears that I put in and will put money on mine that it will take a 5500 rpm clutch dump and not blowup any day of the week. To everyone who says try that with slicks on the track I say this, When did GM put slicks on the car? I am not bragging about the 10 bolt by any means it is what it is a stock rear end. There are alot of people who must have the 2000 dollars laying around to replace their rearend because they have been told it will explode. I say when it pops If it was because of YOU then you need to put something in that can take YOU.
Just my 2cents

Thas exactly what I'm wondering and thinking. Everyone talks shit about the 10bolt, but at the same time these people are trying to run thick sticky tires with like 50-100rwp more(albiet some have cracked them on stock but with stickies). So, the general consensus seems to be stock power(or slightly more), and street tires my rear should be fine? When should I think about upgrading? cams/LTs/intake/manifold/etc? H/C combo? a lot earlier?

[LS2Tuner]

Thas exactly what I'm wondering and thinking. Everyone talks shit about the 10bolt, but at the same time these people are trying to run thick sticky tires with like 50-100rwp more(albiet some have cracked them on stock but with stickies). So, the general consensus seems to be stock power(or slightly more), and street tires my rear should be fine? When should I think about upgrading? cams/LTs/intake/manifold/etc? H/C combo? a lot earlier?

When it breaks. . . . . . . . . .




















Until you are in the low,low 11's or even mid 10 area don't waste your money.

[Wesman]

Put it this way. . . . . . . . . . . . . I have many cars with 150-180 shots of nitrous and drag radials that have the stock 10 bolts with NO issues. You are stating with street tires and dumping the clutch @ 4000, DON'T WORRY it should be fine. Your not putting major stress on it until you begin to hook up. Blowing the tires off isn't putting a major load on the ring and pinion or axle shafts.

Agreed. The 10 bolt in our cars isn't necessarily "weak", its just undersized for the type of abuse that our cars endure. If you're on street tires, I would't worry about the rear.

It starts to become an issue when you're making well over 400WHP with an M6 and launching with sticky tires. Until then, don't worry about upgrading unless it breaks for some reason.

[blackbirdbrain89]

hahaha . my car had free mods slp lid slp bellow and magnaflow cat back and centerforce clutch and alum flywheel, and 255 street tires 2600rpm drop first run i got a 2.01 60 ft and 12.97 @110 next run same thing but snaped my left axle i only ran at the strip 8 passes i had my car dynoed it made 342hp and 352ftlbs of tq and a broke my axle.... then i put a set of moser axles in and about 7500 mi of all street my fucking lsd cracked a worm gear. i know of 1 camaro that snaped his axle on the street on dr's he was only making 400 ish hp at the time

[Aetos]

So, according to you guys I should be able to go most bolt ons, LTs, and cams to bring me close to 400rwhp and still have my rear relatively safe as long as I stay on street tires, right?

[LS2Tuner]

So, according to you guys I should be able to go most bolt ons, LTs, and cams to bring me close to 400rwhp and still have my rear relatively safe as long as I stay on street tires, right?

YES

You'll be fine. Even with drag radials. People seem to think all it takes is a pair of sticky tires and a burnout to make the car hook. . . . . . . . Anyways as long as you tune in some spin your fine with a pair of drag radials also. As I have said many times before I have many mid-low 11 second F-body's on drag radials grabbing kits right out of the gate.

[Mr. Luos]

Seen one break on street tires. Car was making roughly 320RWHP. Heard of it several times as well.
Seen them in the 10's as well...with an automatic.


It isn't wasting your money to upgrade that 10 bolt to a 9".
Why allow that 10 bolt to get you stranded....that is wasting money.

[LS2Tuner]

Why Fix It If It Ain't Broke. . . . . . . ?

[Mr. Luos]

Why Fix It If It Ain't Broke. . . . . . . ?

$350

[blackbirdbrain89]

if i could do it redo it i would saved the 350 bucks and kit my losses and got a 9 inch and be done with it

[jeremy_m70]

The rear is about a 50/50 chance. Some will hold and some will not. IMO I would stop those 4k dumps until I had enough money to replace the rear if this is your only ride. Hell my car would spin through 1st and if not careful, spin me around when I hit 2nd with a 2k dump @ a roll, Z rated tires, and completely stock except cat back(but 2nd gear 180 would occurred more at night with temps in the 70's).

In short .....it may last and it may not, just be prepared for either case. But I also agree with not buying a 8" or 12 bolt unless you need it, that cash could go along way with bolt ons and suspension upgrades IMHO.

[WSICK]

DANA all the way!

[Mr. Luos]

DANA all the way!

Too much risk of tweaking the housing. 12 bolt is the same way.
Torque arm mounts aren't to my liking.


Go 9"

[blackbirdbrain89]

so how do u bolt the tq arm up to a 9 inch???