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08-23-2012, 10:47 AM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Denver
- Age
- 43
- Posts
- 4
Blues- Blaze and cavy
Is it best practice to replace shocks AND springs?
Hey guys,
I am in desperate need of shocks but should I do shocks and springs? The car has 226K on it and I am really not going to the performance side because its a 3.8. Plus its not even my car but I have been using it for over a year now. Are there any combo kits that are relatively cheap? should I Use the same springs or is it better to replace both? Thanks in advance!
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08-23-2012, 10:59 AM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
unless one side is leaning real bad I recommend staying with the stock springs. They are pretty tough.
Since you're not going with a heavy mod route just get OEM shocks.
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08-23-2012, 11:31 AM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Denver
- Age
- 43
- Posts
- 4
Blues- Blaze and cavy
Cool, sounds good to me, there isnt any leaning. Thanks SMWS6TA!
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08-23-2012, 12:43 PM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
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- Florida Man Status Acheivement
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- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
one more way to know for sure.
take both rear shocks out at same time and stand side by side. They should be very close to same length.
also - front shocks are a major PITA.
You have 2 options.
Opt 1) Easy option - take it to a shop that has a press and let them do it.
Opt 2) Hard option - You'll need to rent a strut compressor that works on the out side of the shock. Autozone rents 'em.
next, you will need to tighten it down a lot. Stage it both sides, then you get to the fun part. You'll have a high percentage that the nut on the top side of the shock is rusted out to the point that you'll not be able to get it off. After you you can do like I did and that was get a chisel and hammer and cut the nut off. It's going to be kinda difficult because the rubber cup that the nut plate rest on will absorb the blows. Once the damn nut is off pull shock out and replace. With a new nut on, hopefully you get one with the shock, and tighten down I used some RTV to cover the threads and the nut. Once it hardens it will protect them. It's easy to remove, just peel.
The reason the nut rusts out is because of the design of the rubber cup. It pools water and has no drainage. Believe it or not water some how gets to that thing.Last edited by SMWS6TA; 08-23-2012 at 12:55 PM.
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11-22-2012, 04:03 PM #5
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- Location
- ardmore oklahoma
- Posts
- 121
yellow- 2004 pontiac gto
it is not as hard as it seems. i replaced my 04 gto struts with tokico adj. inserts. took me about an hr to start to finish. and i had to drill a hole and ket the oil out and then cut the shock and take out the piston. took the remainder of the stock strut and drilled a 1/2" hole at the bottom of the canister. slid in the insert and screwed the bolt into the welded on nut on the bottom of the strut insert and tightened i think 25 ft. lbs. put the spring back on and back in car. now i have new adjustable struts.
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11-22-2012, 05:33 PM #6
I tried the whole rental tool route removing the front. Stupid cheap O'Reilly compressor broke and almost broke my arm.called a local wheel and tire shop who wanted twenty bucks to swap the hardware i took off the car and brought in.
My advice remove fronts and run it up to nearest wheel tire shop. Their commercial equipment can take care off it in five minutes
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01-08-2013, 02:29 PM #7
Shocks/struts and springs are relatively easy if you have everything you need at your disposal. Like SMWSWS6 said, the hardest part is taking that nut off the top of the shock off. I used a grinder to get the nut off. Then I put it into a vice and beat the heck out of it.....clear the area when you do that haha, springs tend to have a little energy. If you are doing it on the ground it will take you a little bit to do the swap. The rear should only take you 30 mins tops. the front depending on the rusted nuts is what will eat up your time. good luck and keep us informed.
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