best clutch and flywheel?

SStatus · 12-22-2005, 11:52 AM

My clutch is about to go and i have decided to go with a performance clutch and a lighter flywheel. I was wondering if anyone recomends anything or can even tell me if they saw an improvment with an aftermarket flywheel. I was looking into the SLP clutch and flywheel packege. I have about 400hp at the motor and i know that matters when selecting clutches. What should i go with?

**keliente** · 12-22-2005, 12:18 PM

There really is no 'best' clutch, because everyone needs something different.

Your best bet is to call a few shops, talk to people, search the internet, see what is working for people with similar setups.

I use a spec stage 2 in my daily driver, I love it. I take that car to the track every week as well and it holds up wonderfully! It is the clutch that the car should have came with from the factory. It is very firm and stout, but not so bad that you can't drive it in heavy traffic.

We also use a spec stage 3 in the s/c car (which is mainly for the track). That clutch is holding 550hp without any issues, but I think it would be a little much to use everyday, makes my leg tired lol.

And most of the time you'll see that people only use lighter flywheels for road racing/etc applications. You will be fine using your stock flywheel, resurfaced. I also see that you have a 98 car (if that is what car you are referring to). You should highly consider upgrading to the 01-02 master and slave cylinder for better performance. If yours have not failed yet, they will soon!

**BIG D's SS** · 12-22-2005, 12:46 PM

I have a spec 3 in my daily driver and I love it other than if I am in heavy traffic. Takes the abuse.

SStatus · 12-22-2005, 05:57 PM

How do i know if the master or slave have gone bad? Because since i bought the car i have had some shifting problems. Somtimes 2-3 just wont go in at all and i will have to double clutch to get it in. Also, 4th grinds everytime if i shift quick, i usually have to hold the clutch for an extra second. I just thought this syncros were messed up and i was going to have them fixed when i got a new clutch. Could this be a problem with the master or slave?

**keliente** · 12-23-2005, 06:58 AM

Yes SS it sounds like your master & slave have gone bad.

I noticed mine going bad right before I replaced the clutch. I'd be hauling ass down the track, shift into 2nd, and I'd be locked out of it like there was no gear there at all. The problem with the 98-00 master & slave cylinders is that they are inadequate at getting the fluid where it needs to be in order to make a shift - so basically at those high rpm shifts you are shifting without a clutch. GM greatly improved the 01-02 cylinders. I have not had any problems with my new stuff yet and I've been to the track many many times.

If a synchro is bad, it'll make shifting into gear X difficult all of the time, and make a grinding noise. It can also be difficult to get back out of gear X.

SStatus · 12-23-2005, 07:10 AM

So i should just upgrade to the 01-02 system and that will do the trick?

**BIG D's SS** · 12-23-2005, 07:23 AM

Originally Posted by SStatus

So i should just upgrade to the 01-02 system and that will do the trick?

No need to spend the money on a new clutch without it. It doesn't let the clutch fully engage.

**keliente** · 12-23-2005, 01:26 PM

Originally Posted by SStatus

So i should just upgrade to the 01-02 system and that will do the trick?

Yeah. The master will come with a new reservoir as well, and the slave already has a new throwout bearing attached to it (although most clutch kits include new t/o bearings). Both are pre-bled from GM but be sure to bleed them once they are installed as well before going on your merry way.

**1Bad F N Z** · 12-25-2005, 06:56 AM

I run the McLeod twin disc and I love the way I can adjust my pedal travel to help tune in my reaction time on the lights. But the real question is how do you intend to use your car? If just running on the street a stock clutch is fine. Maybe a little serious time at the track, I ran a centerforce clutch and enjoyed it. But now for running in the high ten's, I needed a stronger clutch. It all depend on how you intend to use the car. KEvin

**ss~zoso~ss** · 12-26-2005, 06:12 PM

how hard is it to install the slave and master cly, because it sounds liike the solution to my shifting problems

**ss~zoso~ss** · 12-26-2005, 06:13 PM

also, how much are these 2 parts and where can i find them

CadillacEXTon27 · 12-27-2005, 08:20 PM

RPS clutch?

**bad6as** · 12-27-2005, 08:48 PM

look in to a ls7 clutch

**keliente** · 12-27-2005, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by ss~zoso~ss

how hard is it to install the slave and master cly, because it sounds liike the solution to my shifting problems

It's not bad. The master is held on by two bolts through the firewall. It disconnects at the transmission. For the slave you will have to remove the driveshaft and then remove the bolts that hold the transmission to the bellhousing. Slide it back and the slave itself is held into the trans with two 10mm bolts.

**ibanez7** · 12-27-2005, 11:28 PM

if you have about 400rwhp, just upgrade to the z06 clutch and updated hydraulics.

Spec Clutches are a brand of debate, many people love them, many people hate them.
Some people get excellent life out of spec, some nuke'em right away. Also some people have felt that you CANT slip the spec, its grabs to hard to fast, which is not good for racing, you want to slip for better launchers.

My opinion is go with a z06 clutch and 01-02 hydraulics. Then when your making huge HP or if you have the cash now, pick up the Mcleod or Exedy.

As far as a lighter flywheel, you must determine one thing first: Do you want to set your car up for dragracing, or circuit racing. (even if its a daily driver) Reason being, is for:

a lighter flywheel is great for circuit track racing, where your constantly at high rpms,
but for drag racing they are not strong enough, stick with the steel.