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Street/strip truck build

This is a discussion on Street/strip truck build within the GM Trucks forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; ...

  1. #1
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    Street/strip truck build

    Hello everyone, Iím in the very early stages of a hot street/strip truck build, so early I havenít even bought a truck yet. Iím wanting a regular cab, short bed, two wheel drive GM truck to put an LS in. Iím leaning towards a 1999-200x truck that came with a 4.8 or 5.3 and a 4L60e. I want to put a 6.0 or 6.2 and a 4L80e in it. My plan would be a simple build with probably a forged rotating assembly and basic valve train mods to work with a single or twin turbos. Are there any particular year trucks that are more desirable or ones to stay away from? What about year model engines and trans to look for or avoid? Iím wanting to do this on a relative budget and as much all myself as possible. The budget isnít as important as avoiding problems with comparability between the 1500 truck and the swapped engine/trans. Iím in an area where I do not know of a shop that could help me through those questions. So Iím trying to avoid pitfalls like fighting with electronics from different years and other unexpected issues. Thanks for any info or help in advance.


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  2. #2
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    As long as you acquire the PCM along with the engine and transmission you should be fine. You'll have a few things to work through but nothing insurmountable with a good schematic.
    planejr likes this.

  3. #3
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Understand that the year you're look at are 24x reluctor wheels. 6.0 after 04' are 58x reluctor wheels. That's why Jeff suggested getting the ecm and wire harness with the engine and tranny.


    If you do drop in a newer engine/tranny into the later year you'll also need to do some rewiring of the harness to be able to work with the dash cluster and guages.


    Even still you have many options to solve this.

    Since you are planning to do some internal upgrades if you get a newer engine you can easily convert it over to 24x reluctor wheel, they are pressed on the crank and if you order one they will install it for you. Change out the crank and cam sensors to 24x and it will work with the trucks harness and ecm. If you're going in the block this would be the least expensive and time option.

    Also some of the newer yrs you need to see if the dod (displacement on demand) where it shuts off injectors for fuel management. You will need to do a delete kit for that.


    My 6.0L is a 04' LQ4 that was bored to 4.005" with my 4" stroker crank I have a 403ci. I did a budget build but still spent money in parts as well.

    Off the top of my head

    K1 Forged crank $900
    DSS Pistons - $400
    SCAT I Beam Forged Rods - $360
    King Bearings - $200
    ARP Rod/Main/Head studs - $630
    Cam - $400
    Oil Pump - $130

    Plus about $1200 more in all the other little parts like gaskets, rings, valves, springs, lifters etc...
    planejr likes this.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the info everybody. Thatís what I was looking for.


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    pajeff02 likes this.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for all the good info everybody. Iím moving forward but the plan changed a little. I may regret this but I felt like the price was too good to pass up. Instead of a 6.0, I bought an entire donor vehicle. Itís a 2001 Yukon XL 2500 with the Vortec 8100 big block, a 4L80e and Iím pretty sure a full floater 14 bolt, disc brake rear axle. I really wanted a 6 liter LS but this whole donor vehicle was cheaper than some complete 6.0s I was finding. The 8100 runs great and has 40 pounds of oil pressure when warm. The 4L80e shifts great but doesnít have reverse. The seller says itís the reverse safety switch and I think he is right. It doesnít make any funny noises when put in reverse. It actually doesnít change at all when going from park to reverse. Itís seems like an electrical issue and doesnít even recognize itís in reverse. Other than reverse, the trans works normally and doesnít seem to slip at all. The recipient truck is a 1999 Chevy 1500 regular cab, short bed two wheel drive. It is a V6 auto truck with a rod knock. I plan on taking the entire driveline, motor, trans, rear axle, radiator, electronics and anything else I need from the Yukon and installing it in the C1500. Any advice or things to look out for with this particular swap would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for your time.


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