Shaved ugly truck intakes? Anyone tried it?

[LHanded Lead Foot]

There are several videos on line about cleaning up the LS truck intake and re-locating vacuum ports. There are better methods to weld plastic than most use in these videos, but if you plan on having something different to look at, with the hood open...Well?
The truck intake is designed with low end torque in mind, making the intake air travel farther before hitting the "Bang Bucket", but cleaning it up and being creative like perhaps a little carbon fiber and clear epoxy could trick it out.
What say you?
Just doing a swap and thinking out loud...with a small wallet.

[5.0THIS]

Put a car intake on if you want it to look better. Ironically though, the car intake will sacrifice a little power compared to the truck intake on most setups until you get to a pretty big cam. If you want to run the truck intake, just make a custom cover for it.

[SMWS6TA]

^^^this.

Get a LS6 intake and call it a day.

[LHanded Lead Foot]

Thanks for the replies. I will consider the subject dead. Been turning wrenches since 1967 and ASE Master in 78 while at dealer upon service managers request for some new testing called NIASE. Years fly by quickly and no longer have the 80k job. Taught classes and held tech seminars for 7 years in six states for ACDelco on contract labor for Raytheon, it's over. Chronic pain does not pay well with about 19 cents on the dollar and no retirement income. Down hill from here.
Techs have tools at home as well as work, but when it's over, it all comes home. I can't afford to buy an intake, camshaft or turbo...been there, done that & have the "Tee" shirt as I did this for others, not me. Just looking for a way to make a daily driver that is reliable with EFI in a 1967 C10 pickup.
It is like moving...all of your friends disappear. Thanks.

[pajeff02]

Are you swapping a 5.3 into the truck? Aesthetics aside, that is a good reliable motor that pulls hard. Your fuel system upgrades are going to be an expense as well as adapting the engine to the transmission if you are going with an old school slush box.

[LHanded Lead Foot]

I have an advantage of using my bench built 700R4 that has everything including 5 pinion gears set both front and rear, Red Alto friction, sonnet updates, Kelone steels, power pack 3rd, hard pump rings, etc. Everything to handle up 550 hp but won't need. It just built for longevity. 3.08 LSD differential with a free 5.3L from a family member who finally totaled one of his vehicles for a change. We had a new EL Camino fuel tank with side filler neck. I welded square heavy tubing notched about 1/2" into the rear of the frame and fit perfect. It has the 3" sender hole and I have about 25 MRA type fuel pumps new in box, plus 18 second generation stand-a-lone pumps that are twin rotors that will work fine. Modifying the sender is easy using a bucket for bottom reference pump inside & return line. I used the fuel door from a mid 80's Volvo 240 that is rectangular with rubber boot to fit the neck. Flanged and welded it and looks factory. I designed a cam slider with a knee pivot that mounts to the firewall and attaches with a rod & clevis design into the gas pedal for the TV cable. It's DBW. The offset flex plate on the 5.3L truck engine, so a little file work and a simple $25 machined hub for alignment. Also using the BCM for lights, RKE, power windows, lock-out protection. All tucked out of sight in center console with top mounted custom switch actuators. Using the PDM for RKE and don't have to see it. Disc on front are all GM from Van/GMT400 on C20 lower control arms. I have less than $350 in parts for the truck, new bed wood from local saw mill, $450 in transmission and the Tahoe driveshaft fit perfect. Pacer 6 hole wheels, 16" X 8" with a ET10 to keep zero scrub on front. Power steering was a simple change of the cross-shaft, 1 1/4" sway bar front & 1" rear bar. I welded the rear lower control arms on top & bottom as they are spot welded in middle only. Bone yard large rear window with slider that i cut the spot welds out to get inside and outside halves to center, flange and weld in place. Re-designed the Tahoe buckets to horizontal bars in leather with custom door panels. My Juki sewing machine work great for that. I will post a photo and diagram of TV cable bracket that hides under the brake booster. I placed the PCM, TAC and BCM inside on sliding brackets where the fuse box used to be. All fuses and relays are under the hood so I don't have to bend over to check them. They too are bone yard donors from the "Right Side" of Buick Park Ave / LeSabre's that have 14 relay slots and 12 fuse locations. Rolled a custom cover to seal and painted to match behind Left headlight. I am on my 4 year of tinkering because I am retired, have most all of the toys, big SnapOn boxes from work, 155 Amp MIG i bought new in 1984, Juki sewing machine was trade for work, torches, A/C equipment, compressor, Tech2, etc. It is rewarding as i am using MS Publisher to finalize a service manual with P/N, schematics, diagnostic flow chart and photos listed in the back for each section by number by "Cell" like GM did starting in 1986. Brakes, red power coated calipers, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. where some bone yard, the rest I either had new or got at Rock Auto. Yes, I sew french seems, piping with air shock tubing and do all of my wiring. My son gave me the truck, so with paint, tires, wheels and all, I should have around $4,800 in total as it came with new exhaust. Oh yea, I rust proof the inside of each panel with professional applicator that has 4 different lines w/tips. Had 22 qts. from dealer and two truck loads of stuff. when the dealer went thru a "Buy-Sell" and anything that was open or not in box, went to dumpster. I spent a lot of time in the dumpster as I was the last tech/guy in the dealer to set up equipment to be auctioned off for two weeks while I finish all of the out-standing warranty parts & vehicles. Garage is full.

[SMWS6TA]

Sounds interesting. Post some pics.

[pajeff02]

^^ Agree. Pics would be great.