what doe's a dremal metal grinder look like?

**qwik219d9** · 10-13-2009, 11:19 PM

I plan on grinding on the K member a little to cleanace the LTs better.

looked at Dremal site found this

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachme...%26+Sharpening

I have the intire kit however only used the sanding drum an the cut off wheel

can some show me what a metal grinder bit looks like or maybe a part #.

Thanks

**Goat-E** · 10-13-2009, 11:25 PM

This is a carbide rasp/burr. They also have some that are made out of stone

**qwik219d9** · 10-13-2009, 11:44 PM

I know I have the stone (? stone won't cut the K member metal right?) type I'll look to see if I have the rasp, bur

don't think it was included in my 400 kit.

Thanks

**Goat-E** · 10-14-2009, 01:00 AM

They come in different sizes and shapes. The one pictured is an acorn style. You might have to go to a "REAL" tool store to purchase one, I did. HomoDepo, Lowes ect. has a pretty limited variety of bits.

**qwik219d9** · 10-15-2009, 01:45 AM

I looked in my dremel kit mainly just a bunch of sanding drums, no Rasp/bur type grinder.

I've never used the flex attachment maybe this w/ the cut off wheel will enable me to get the proper angle to cut the K-member?

what is considered a real tool store any recommendations would help.

here's what the local Lowes has think it will grind the k-member?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...-03&lpage=none

Thanks for you advice

**Goat-E** · 10-15-2009, 02:47 AM

I believe that bit will do the job. I use a die-grinder with larger attachments. That dremel might be slow going but then again I don't know what size the dremel is. That bit should do fine though. I hope you aren't taking too much off of the member or you will run into structural issues. I would steer clear of anything that could be deemed a folded seem. Only a little off of flat edges.

**qwik219d9** · 10-15-2009, 04:17 AM

I have another thread on this issue.

the dremel I have is there best one 400xpr. looked again and in the grinding box w/ sanding drums & stone grinders there's a simiarl bit to the one above there's a green dot next to it.

when first installed the LTs driver side contacted the steering shaft had to dimple the LT a little then ended up removing the steering shaft and grinded it down some I'm thinking this new differnt nosie is the collector hitting the floor.

I have'nt inspected it yet (lots of rain) if real close to floor maybe I can try a small crow bar and bend the LT down, I've also read people using a BFH on the floor. my LT collecter is a flanged type not slip fit this will be the first place I check. would prefer to grind on the collector than beat on the floor.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0034_large.jpg

driver side always been close to the K-member.

? how close (in space) is to close?

maybe from the few times car bottomed out caused this?

Thanks

**Goat-E** · 10-15-2009, 02:22 PM

I'm not really down with all of this cutting of pieces that are meant to support weight. It sounds kind of hammer mechanic to me. I saw your other thread FYI. Under what conditions are the contact being made? There may be another safer route. I personally would manipulate a non load bearing part.

**Cutlass** · 10-16-2009, 03:10 PM

This is what I use. Its an air powered die grinder with a metal grinding bit.

**qwik219d9** · 10-18-2009, 08:13 AM

I crawled under the car and my observations where it's not the K-member or the collectors hitting floor plently of clearance.

maybe it's the motor mounts?

I've read that alot of folks have the Y-pipe hitting the trans mount looks like I need to put car on lift for a real close inspection.

weird sounds like the noise is under my feet.

Thanks

**Cutlass** · 10-18-2009, 11:23 AM

maybe you have a bad trans mount or torque arm mount causing your clunk. Did it start happening right after you header install?

**FORD RECOVERY EXPERT** · 10-18-2009, 08:42 PM

Is car auto or stick?

**0rion** · 10-22-2009, 09:10 PM

I would rule out that trans mount...pretty common for those to go out. Like was said though, what conditions does it hit under? The Y will usually hit right under the driver where it makes the bend to join the other side.

**qwik219d9** · 10-23-2009, 05:16 AM

1.exhaust contacting body while at idel it's not all the time I'd say rarely however I can diffenitly feel and hear it seans like it's orginateing from around the driver side.

2.I've replaced a trans. rubber mount (w/ OME) and when it went bad w/ only a 1/2" tear it was very noticable w/ vibration.

3.it's not a clunk it's more of a shaking & hitting.

4. as far as the torque arm mount I have a good Eldobrock TA w/ nice poly trans. mount bushing BTW it made this exact same noise w/ the stock exhaust.

5. I have a custom made Y-pipe (from LT collector 3" reducer into 2.5" tubeing into a flowmaster merge collector then flanged into my Hooker cat back) and it appears to have plenty of clearance, looks like I have to put it on a lift and inspect real closely.

6. car is auto.

7.The Y will usually hit right under the driver where it makes the bend to join the other side.

I will inspect this area real close. and take a few images.

I am convinced this exhaust contacting the body is the cause of my pinging at wide open throttle. I've tryed to be as detailed as possiable.

Maybe this thread can be combined w/ other related thread exhaust contacting body) thread in the general section.

Thanks Guy's for the surrport

**qwik219d9** · 10-25-2009, 05:24 AM

took car to a muffler shop. Man did'nt want to inspect exhaust w/ my ORY

or bend anything.

I asked nicely and he did inspect around the motor mounts and trans. brace nice cleanance on both.

man said the over the axel catback U clamp was touching the heat shield
this U clamp may need adjusting or replaceing w/ a band clamp.

this blows my mind because I feel and hear it under my feet.

Thanks