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1968 Dart Turbo 6.0 Swap

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  1. #1
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    1968 Dart Turbo 6.0 Swap

    Looking to turn so heads! And possibly rattle the Mopar world! I will be swapping a gen 3 6.0 into my recently restored 68 Dart. The Dart is 2 door, recently bought down to bare metal and painted. Chassis and suspension was all redone with oem like parts. I have a 2002 Magnum engine and 727 in the car right now, but Im just not happy with the performance. On the other hand, I built a gen 3 6.0 last year for my 2004 silverado and its a monster. I been tuning with HP tuners for a few years now and since last summer I have 4 gen 3 engine I've built for friends.

    For this project I'll list my budget 6.0 build components, feel free to ask questions.

    LQ4 Block
    Stock Crank
    Stock floating Rods with ARP Cracked Bolts
    Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons H1129CPA
    Sealed Power Plasma-Moly Piston Ring Sets E-921K
    799 Heads with LS6 Blue Springs
    LS7 MLS GM Head Gaskets
    ARP Head bolts
    Trickflow 7.400 Chromoly Pushrods
    OEM Rockers with Trunion Upgrade
    Summit Racing® Pro LS Camshafts SUM-8700 LIFT 0.525 int./0.525 exh. Duration at 050 inch Lift: 225 int./236 exh. Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
    Sharp Customs 102mm LS1 LS2 SHEET METAL INTAKE
    G-Plus 102mm Throttle Body
    60lb @55psi Siemens Injectors
    CX Racing T76 T4 Turbo (Planing 8-12Psi)

    Running a OEM PCM with a PSI Stanalone Harness
    Mated to a TCI Super StreetFighter TH400 with a B&M Nitrous 2400 Stall Converter
    8 3/4 Rear ( Front loader) with a Auburn Posi Carrier with 3.91 Gears


    Aiming to land in the 600s somewhere, I dont see why I would have any trouble. Ill adjust the boost to stay in the 600s as I will plan to drive this Daily to work (3 Miles Away)

    For any Dodge guys on here trying to do this, the rear steering is the first obvious problem, either you can get a gto front sump pan, or you can flip the front spindles and convert to front steer. I will be installing a T-Bird Power Steering Rack & Pinion for Mustang II Crossmembers that uses an lines to my gm ps pump. Also I will be removing the oem torsion setup and fabbing upper tower supports for QA1 Coilovers.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Nice build, That's a baby cam. You can go to a Polluter Cam from Tick and it would work great. It was designed for LS2/6.0 Liter blocks.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  3. #3
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  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    1968 Dart Turbo 6.0 Swap

    your pic is not showing

  5. #5
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  6. #6
    MEMBER 5150's Avatar
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    2000 Z/28

    Sounds badass!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Lt's,SFC,3,600 Fuddle stall,Spohn Adj. tunnel mount torque arm, BMR LCA,Ls6 intake,Air lid,Under drive pulley,S60 rear,Frost tune and a few more things I cant remember.

  7. #7
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    Decided to change the cam bearings, I ordered them Monday and put them in today. I have a ls specific cam bearing tool and it made short work removing and reinstalling. 3 different sized bearings, 1 & 5 bearings are the same and so are 2 & 4 locations, location 3 has its own O.D different than the others. Anyone looking to do their own cam bearing make sure you get the locations right. Afterwards I used a can of pb blaster with the straw and stuck the straw in the oil hole on the bearings to make sure I was able to blow pb blaster down thru to the main caps oil journals.

    I also got my reman oem crank installed and fastened down with ARP main fasteners. Cam and crank both spin freely.

    Ive built a handful of these LS engines, and with great success I use Harbor Frieght Air compressor oil as assembly lube. I never have a problem, its cheap and I can get it by the volume. I can be more generous with coating the bearings and rotating assembly.

    Tonight, I will aim to change my rod bolts to ARPs cracked bolts and get my pistons installed.

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