Valve Cover Question

[johngoodman]

I snapped a spark plug (#5), and it's stuck hard. My machine shop told me to bring in the cylinder to drill it out. I'm in the process of taking it down to the heads, but I have a question about what's under the valve cover.
I've been told that you can lift the whole assembly out and put it aside, as long as the bolts are all loose - is this true? Also, the only bolts I see that could do such a thing are way down low, behind the rocker arms.
John

[SMWS6TA]

Have a piece of cardboard and mark them with the number of the cylinders.

Next remove each rocker one at a time and place on it's spot of the cardboard. That way you can not mix up what came off where.

You'll need a new set of head bolts and gaskets. Try to get MLS gaskets as they are much better then the graphite.

[johngoodman]

OK, I think I've got it. The rockers have to be removed, then you have access to the 15mm bolt heads to pull off the head. Plus, of course, the bolts under the intake manifold and down at the bottom.
John

[SMWS6TA]

I forgot to confirm to say yes the intake must come off....I had assumed you were already there.


Yes, there are 3 rows of bolts. As an additional idea lay the bolts out the same way as you take them out. Reason being that the head bolts had a couple of different sizes for the middle row IIRC. I believe it's the 2 outer bolts, middle row that are shorter then the rest.

If you haven't already taken the bolts off yet, reverse loosening them in order. By that I mean start from the outside and work in. This should help keep the head from warping. But with aluminum you still need to check. How you can is grab a straight edge ruler and place it along the head surface that goes to the block. Next use a flash light on the opposite side. Look for light between the head and the ruler. If there is some you shop needs to see if within spec. You may have to them level the surface.

NOW ON REASSEMBLE MAKE 1000% SURE YOU HAVE CLEAN AND DRIED ALL HEAD BOLT HOLES!!!! OR YOU RISK CRACKING YOUR BLOCK!!!!

LS blocks are not like SBC where the bottom row of head bolts are in the coolant. All LS blocks are dry holes. When you pull the heads coolant will get in them.

Do not trust blowing them out with just air. Get some long Qtips or like I did I used a grabber with a small piece of rag and cleaned the holes till no trash or wet.




I know suggesting this is adding some costs but you're already half way there...Now would be a great time to throw in some LS7 lifters to give the block fresh up. Also check the push rods to make sure they haven't bent. Do this by placing on a mirror and roll. You will know if a rod is bent. Also rotate the crank a few turns to look at each cylinder to make sure the cross hatch is still there and no issues with the cylinder walls.

And when you go to put new plugs in, a dab of anti-seize on the threads

[0rion]

this will answer any possible questions you might have going forward

LS1Howto.com

[johngoodman]

Thanks for the great description! Combined with the LS1HowTo, I'm pretty confident that I'm doing it right. Since I'm only doing one side, I'll probably pass on the LS7 lifters.
Thanks to everyone on this forum.
John

[johngoodman]

One more question - What are the two large rubber stoppers on the intake floor for?

[SMWS6TA]

??? post a pic if possible

[johngoodman]

??? post a pic if possible

Here is a photo, and also a photo of the underside of the Intake Manifold, which has some foam strips glued to it to hold down the two rubber stoppers. Notice the imprint that the wires and stoppers made in the foam.
John

Attachment 26622

Attachment 26623

[SMWS6TA]

Foam you can tear off does nothing , the wire harness and those"stoppers" you mention are your knock sensors. I use a little masking tape to hold the wires in place while I install the intake. On my first time installing one I pushed the harness into the runners of the heads and burn it in 2. So I had to get another and replace.

I also (you don't if you don't want to) place a thin layer of rtv along the edge of the rubber caps to help keep moisture from getting in.

[0rion]

I can't see pics but they're knock sensor covers if I'm reading right. When you button it back up ots a good idea to around those with some rtv to keep water out which kills sensors

[0rion]

I somehow missed your post Scott....so what you said