Used Stock Rods/Pistons 1st Time Rebuilder ???

**mvinkler** · 06-03-2011, 03:56 PM

First time Ls1 rebuilder.. on a budget! Bought a NEW GM Ls1 Block standard bore, Reman crank (gm stock) with matching oversive bearings, gm head gaskets, ls6 valley pan (with the pcv tap to do the oil burner fix) , melling oil pump, double roller chain set, having valve job done to stock heads. Going to use stock cam, lifters, push rods for now. Bought ARP head bolts. I guess I need a new snout bolt too as I hear they are torque to yield.

The old ls1 that was in my 01 ss broke a rod, all bearings were fine, just snapped a rod at 120K , rod bolts didn't stretch etc.

I bought a set of used rods and pistons off a buddy (dirt cheap) as one piston has a hole in the top from a broken valve spring.

Bought a set of standard size rings thinking I was going to reuse old pistons and rods.

But I hear that using used pistons is a no no as the skirts are coated with teflon and that is all but gone after 120K.

Since this one rod snapped with no explanation should I use another set of used stock rods? The set I bought weren't overheated just removed from buddys engine when the valve tried to make its way into the pan by way of the piston, so I could salvage one piston from the broken block.

If so do I need to buy ARP or ketech? bolts for them?

CHEAP ... maybe Sealed Power SLP-H868CP Hypereutectic Pistons with stock used rods.

Forged Pistons and rods are gonna be close to a 1000 bucks ...
EX: MAHLE LS1340898F04 and SCAT 2-LS1 6100-2100-945

What would YOU do?

**Z28_Driver** · 06-04-2011, 02:06 PM

I would reuse the connecting rods before i would replace one piston in a set. I have reused connecting rods in rebuilds before. If there is no damage and its not a extremely modded car you'll be fine.
Your original pistons might be ok. Check for any wear or signs of impact on the skirts. If you find anything wrong now, it will just magnify over time.
I know its not cheap, but you might want a machine shop to inspect your parts before you throw more money in the mix.

**mvinkler** · 06-04-2011, 03:30 PM

So you have reused the stock LS1 rods? Did you change the rod bolts? I don't know if the stock bolts are reuseable? The rods were from a 1999 ls1 and I heard that before 01 the bolts were defective. The kemtech or whatever brand are $200 a set thats half the price of new scat hbeam rods with arp bolts, but I will need a stretch guage as they aren't set by torque as the kemtech or ketech or whatever that other brand are.

Also the side skirts have almost zero coating left on them. They do look scratched up. In most engines its not an issue but with such a short skirt I hear that LS1 skirts need that coating more than standard engines do.

**Z28_Driver** · 06-05-2011, 02:45 PM

Originally Posted by mvinkler

So you have reused the stock LS1 rods? Did you change the rod bolts? I don't know if the stock bolts are reuseable? The rods were from a 1999 ls1 and I heard that before 01 the bolts were defective. The kemtech or whatever brand are $200 a set thats half the price of new scat hbeam rods with arp bolts, but I will need a stretch guage as they aren't set by torque as the kemtech or ketech or whatever that other brand are.

Also the side skirts have almost zero coating left on them. They do look scratched up. In most engines its not an issue but with such a short skirt I hear that LS1 skirts need that coating more than standard engines do.

I have reused the stock connecting rods and bolts on engines, couple BB chevys, a 350, pontiac 400, 4.3v6, and a 2.8 I4. It varies on the build on if you should or can reuse the stock rod bolts. If your worried replace them.

Even on a budget you will have a lot of money in the rebuild. No sense in a faulty part killing it after a few thousand miles.

I helped a friend assemble his 350 for a monte carlo. He insisted that the cam bearing were still in good shape and didnt need replaced. They are press in and he didnt want to pay a machine shop to do the work.
To make a long story short. He saved about $150 in parts and labor to watch $900 in parts be destroyed by the cam seazing in a scarred bearing.

**Z28_Driver** · 06-05-2011, 02:46 PM

From your description of the piston skirts showing visible damage already I would advise that you replace those too.

**Jay37** · 06-12-2011, 12:40 PM

Well if your going to reuse the rods you should have them ground, the machine shop will grind them oversize. Because the rod end looses its "true". Also do not replace the bolts if your not having them reground. Gen III are "break caps" so they hold a little better than the old styles. but new still will off center the caps a little. Replacing the bolts on rods that are broke in is worse than leaving the ones that were in it, in it. But that is all the politically correct bull shit, for rich kids, and high end engines.
No matter what your doing use plastigauge, on all the bearing clearances. It's cheap.

As far as the pistons... You would need them measured, and inspected..

Okay. personally if your on a budget. Like a no shit budget. and just want to get your engine back on the road. Make sure you don't have any crazy damage to anything, get one rod and piston and put it back together. That is not orthodox, or recommended. But I have done shit like that. alot can't even count the engines that wiped one rod, of main or crack piston, whatever. I needed it back, and just replaced the affected one. Then ran it. No issues. They are not high end engines though.

**Jay37** · 06-12-2011, 12:44 PM

The biggest issue is its a spiral effect when you start replacing parts. If it was me, at 120k I would over size all the pistons, new bearing, reuse rods, and crank. But that would change depending on time and money. I am just getting older and don't like to risk it to get the biscuit like use to.