TSP Torquer V2 first impressions

[Huskerz1]

I just had a Torquer V2 kit installed so I thought people might want to know my impressions so far.

The mods I added were:
TSP T2 kit 232/234 .595/.598 112 LSA
pulley
LS6 intake
PS LTs/Ory
Textralia clutch
LS6 oil pump
LS2 chain
SFCs
AIR and EGR delete




The cam is great once you get the car rolling. Problem for me is that starting out in 1st gear sucks hard. It shudders and shakes violently. I find that rapping it up to 3k and slipping the clutch is the only way I can avoid the shake and shudder. My SS will need to go back to the tuner because after an hour of driving, the SES light came on. All other guage readings were ok. There is significant cam surge when I'm off the gas in 1st and 2nd gear coasting at low speed. The car wants gas. Then it goes like a motherfocker. Maybe gears will help this out. I dunno. I was in some heavy stop and go trafic on the way home. I really wouldn't say this cam is daily driver friendly. Maybe I need to give it some time to break the clutch in. Honestly, I couldn't imagine going to a bigger cam right now. Stopped at idle, the whole car shakes. It isn't bad but I'm not used to that much shaking. It's loud as hell starting out in 1st with my LM2. After I get rolling it quiets down until I get on it. Then it's friggin NASCAR! I couldn't be more happy with the craftsmanship of the shop welds. They welded my SFCs and ory pipe. It's professional and uniform. The whole installation is for that matter.

Overall, once rolling it's amazing. I've got to work out the 1st gear stuff. Hopefully breaking the clutch in will help smooth it out. The car wants to go and go hard. I've gotten 2 comments about it sounding badass tonite with just one pass on the local cruising Pkwy. It does too, but I also fear it attracts jonny law attention when I start out in 1st. I'll be happy to try to answer any questions people might have. Also I'm open to any advice.

The car put down 396rwhp/372rwtq

[secondgearscratch]

i cant get an accurate description out of your post because you said more tuning is needed. think this will solve the problems/concerns you have? sounds like it would to me... the reason im interested is because im getting this cam very very soon.....thanks man

[2001hawk]

My first suggestion was maybe the clutch being new but then you said that. I would give it some time. Second you went with a very high duration cam as indicated by the HP number being that much higher than the TQ number. When you do that you move the power band away from the lower RPMs making your launch suffer. That is why people always say if you intend to use the vehicle as a DD you will be hating life. How much do you intend to drive the car? You may not be able to get the car to idle very smoothly because of high duration and the 112 LSA. But you get a lot more at the redline. Secondgear if you plan on driving the car often you might consider waiting until huskerz gets done seeing what the tune can do for him. Better to be as informed as possible. Just a thought.

[Huskerz1]

i cant get an accurate description out of your post because you said more tuning is needed. think this will solve the problems/concerns you have? sounds like it would to me... the reason im interested is because im getting this cam very very soon.....thanks man

I need to go back to the tuner to see about the SES light. Maybe ask some more questions about the clutch breakin and surging. Other than that I like the cam but I wouldn't consider this cam for stop and go traffic. Like I said, you gotta rev it up to get a smooth take off. My SS is a weekend car. I probably would be annoyed driving it everyday.

[Huskerz1]

My first suggestion was maybe the clutch being new but then you said that. I would give it some time. Second you went with a very high duration cam as indicated by the HP number being that much higher than the TQ number. When you do that you move the power band away from the lower RPMs making your launch suffer. That is why people always say if you intend to use the vehicle as a DD you will be hating life. How much do you intend to drive the car? You may not be able to get the car to idle very smoothly because of high duration and the 112 LSA. But you get a lot more at the redline. Secondgear if you plan on driving the car often you might consider waiting until huskerz gets done seeing what the tune can do for him. Better to be as informed as possible. Just a thought.

Ya, I need to give the clutch some quality time. It's definitely not the biggest cam I could have chose but I didn't want the biggest either. I chose the 112 lsa for the idle chop. The cam surge definitely didn't enter my mind. I'm going to see if the tuner can work it out some more. I'm gonna give the SS some more time to work out the clutch before I piss and moan about "shoulda got a 228". LOL. I think mainly, my problems are trying to figure out the clutch and where the engine rpms need to be for a consistent smooth take off in traffic. Once the clutch grabs, the car is immediately propelled forward. I need some space in front or I need more driving lessons. LOL.

[Huskerz1]

Well I rented a diagnostic scanner from Oreileys. My SES codes are P0160 and P0140. They translate to O2s circuit insufficient activity on banks 1&2 and sensors 1&2. Maybe something forgot to be tuned is all. Whew, I'll resume driving it to break that clutch in some more.

[2001hawk]

I don't know too much about O'reilly's and what they charge on the loan-a-tool. I have a friend that works at one I guess I could ask him. They are new to my area, but I do like the brands of parts they carry and have resonable prices. Before I got my scanner I borrowed one from Advance. They would only make you leave a deposit if you were going to leave with it. I bought one for myself and one of the good things about it is that it reads the voltage coming from all of the sensors. That way you can see if it matches what it should be. My first suggestion if you were going to look into it yourself is for you to check what the computer reads. If it is an open circuit then maybe the sensors are not hooked up(sometimes they are disconnected and forgot to be plugged back in), you said you have the ORY and probably headers check to see if the wires got too hot, if the Y-pipe is new and coated sometimes you have to clean the bung surface that way the sensor makes a good ground. Or your other option is since you were going to take it back to the shop let them chase it down. Those codes are for bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2. In other words the PCM is saying there is no activity from your post-cat or in your case the back O2 sensor. Since those sensors plug into the Y-pipe I would go with the above. Are you running the O2 sims because you could just have them hook the laptop back up and turn off those sensors that way the PCM would not look for the voltage because those sims can go out and the the code comes back. Biggest thing you can do for the clutch is take it easy for about 300 miles depending how much stop and go. I usually give the WS-6 about 200 to 500 RPMs depending on the situation basically enough to keep it from bogging after that it has no problem pulling especially above 1500.Also before you go back you might want to turn on the A/C and see how it idles. How does it idle now? What RPM? Idle in closed loop and open loop? Sorry for being long winded.

[Huskerz1]

No problem. The car idles at 850rpm. It chops pretty good and the engine shakes which in turn vibrates the whole car a little more than slightly but not real bad. It's still a bit annoying. My AC went out last year so I imagine when I get a new compressor I'll have to re-adjust the idle. Aaaand I will get it fixed too. Texas is too hot to screwing around with no AC.

No O2 sims in the back. I figured the tuner would tune them out. I'll have to double check that tho I guess. I have the O2 extensions in the front. I will check the cables for possible signs of heat damage like you said.

THE GOOD NEWS IS that I've put over one hundred miles on the new clutch and it is getting easier. The textralia clutch I got will hold 650 hp. It's just gonna take a little time to get the flywheel worn in some. It's billet steel and a pain in the ass but I'll be patient. I can't wait to be able to slip at 1500rpm. If I tried that now it would be painful. Besides the clutch break in, I feel that there are a couple little issues that I want to have addressed. There is some bucking and surging in first I would like to tame down a bit. Do you think 3.73s and some further tuning will help here? Then ofcourse the SES codes taken care of.

[2001hawk]

My firehawk is a H/C car and it has a pretty mild cam so I don't have a problem idling or turning on the A/C, but my WS-6 doesn't like it too much. Yes Texas is way to hot to not have A/C. When I was in the Air Force, I was stationed in San Antonio and Wichita Falls. You could go with the 3.73's but I would think it would still buck a bit just it would be at a lower speed. If I get stuck having to crawl along in first the WS-6 will do it and it has 4.11's. Might let the clutch wear in a bit before deciding, but the 3.73's will get up and go a lot better than the 3.42's. The scanner that O'reilly lent you can you view the live data from the computer?

[Huskerz1]

Not sure about the live data with the scanner. I deposited $216 for the use, read my codes, and returned it. I don't think it reads live data. It just pretty much asked what make-model-year and then you press scan. I had to look up the codes on the web.

Went for a Sunday morning drive. Clutch is feeling alot better down on the low pedal. Then mid and high pedal still beating the flywheel some but that's getting better too. Got maybe 150 miles on it.

[GT Griller]

That cam is easily daily driveable!! u need some more tuning for sure...My buddy had it in his DD making 415hp....Ran like a champ, it didnt "shutter" or anything....Who tuned it?

[Huskerz1]

That cam is easily daily driveable!! u need some more tuning for sure...My buddy had it in his DD making 415hp....Ran like a champ, it didnt "shutter" or anything....Who tuned it?

I know it needs more tuning. It's going back first thing monday. It's not going to do any good throwing the shop under the bus. Their reputable and they'll make it right.

[kealap]

I just put this cam in my car and have a p0300 code(mult. cyl. misfire) is this common with a lumpy cam to cause this. It sounds mean as hell at idle!!

[secondgearscratch]

I just put this cam in my car and have a p0300 code(mult. cyl. misfire) is this common with a lumpy cam to cause this. It sounds mean as hell at idle!!

tuned?

check the plugs.

[kealap]

Haven't got it tuned yet, doing it tommorrow. Plugs are NGK TR55 gapped @ .050

[secondgearscratch]

Haven't got it tuned yet, doing it tommorrow. Plugs are NGK TR55 gapped @ .050

wait to see what the shop says about the misfire. it may get cleared up in the tuning process. i have alot of theories, all of which could be very irrelevant so just trust your tune man. NO WORRIES.

[GT Griller]

I know it needs more tuning. It's going back first thing monday. It's not going to do any good throwing the shop under the bus. Their reputable and they'll make it right.

im not blaming ur shop just saying that its in the tune and can be fixed as soon as they take their time and figure out the tuning on ur car.....plenty of people with that cam that daily drive it and have no issues.

[2001hawk]

Kealap, did you do the heads and cam or just the cam? What other mods were done at the same time?

[kealap]

Ya did heads too. PRC stage 2.5 LS6 heads w/ 2.02 1.57

[2001hawk]

Sounds nice I would start with the plugs and wires. Also how bad is the miss. Dead miss or just bad enough to throw the code?