Top End whoa's

**Car addict** · 12-17-2013, 02:09 PM

Howdy,
I have heard from my mechanic that I have something serious going on with my top end somewhere, I have a stock LS-1 ( I think, cause I bought the car used so I don't know for sure) in my 2000 FireHawk. The starter was recently changed cause the mounting tab sheered off and when I hit the key it torqued to the side, so when we had to have it towed again for the same noise, we thought it was just another starter issue, but not according to the scan tool (said my mechanic), there is an issue with number 2 cylinder and my mechanic said number 7 cylinder as well. Are both of those in the same bank? I always though that even number cylinders were on one side of the motor and Odd on the other. Who knows I will have to pull the valve covers this weekend and find out whats up for myself. Guys I am just venting a bit here, writing this down helps me get it out of my system so to speak. But if it is just valve train could you recommend a good budget, cam, rockers, springs, etc. maybe that come in a complete kit please. Any input is much appreciated!!

Thanks for listening!
And I hope this doesn't happen

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-17-2013, 04:05 PM

post codes so we can see what it's throwing.

#2 is passenger side front cylinder, #7 is on drivers side last cylinder closest to firewire.

When you say "broken tab" do you mean where the starter attaches to the block? If do, how was it fixed? Normally in these cases the block is toast.

**Car addict** · 12-18-2013, 05:27 AM

I didn't ask what the codes were because i was so peed off I was seeing yellow, but the tab that sticks out the side of the starter and bolts to the block sheered off the starter housing, so they replaced the starter with a new one, (not a re-manufactured one), my wife got in the car and turned the key only to hear that same sickening sound, We thought it might have been the ring gear/teeth or a flex plate crack at first, upon inspection by the mechanic they say there is no apparent damage to either, also I called to get the codes and I am being told there are no codes thrown, something smells very fishy here, I can't imagine there would be trouble in 2 different cylinders with out even 1 code being thrown, besides that I was wondering if there are supposed to be shims between the starter and the block, and was told there weren't, I am not sure what to believe now. I have changed starters on chevy 350's before and there was always a shim of some kind but I am not at all familiar with the LS's, I am more confused now than I was before!! UUHHGGGG!!!!!!!!

Things that make you go HMMMM!

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-18-2013, 05:57 AM

Ok, so it was the starter that broke, GOOD.

Shims - sometimes they are needed, it all depends on the type/brand starter you have.

Codes - not necessary, meaning unless it's a misfire, knock, or compression failure then no codes are possible.

You say these problems just started after the starter swap, correct? If so I would get a new starter and swap it out first before tearing into the motor.

It could be just a bad starter alignment.

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-18-2013, 06:00 AM

If possible try to do a video and post it here. You will need to upload to youtube and post the link.

**Car addict** · 12-18-2013, 06:22 AM

The mechanic did replace the starter a 2nd time yesterday, with another new starter, but they started the car and shut it right off because they don't want to be responsible for any further damage that could occur, from what little info I am getting, There is no fire at #2 and #6 cylinders and there is a knocking coming from the right bank, as if a valve dropped into the cylinder, but I have not heard it first hand because I am out of town on business so I will just have to wait to get it back and see for myself after this weekend.

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-18-2013, 06:46 AM

They should have check to make sure wire harness for coil packs, FI and plug wires are connected.

They should do a compression check on that side. It's possible a valve spring could have broke or bent push rod.

**Car addict** · 12-18-2013, 07:24 AM

At this point I am just waiting to get home to find out for myself, I usually do most of my own work, thanks so much for all your help! I appreciate it more than you know, now I am waiting to get home, have a great holiday, I will keep you up to date when I have additional info, a friend of mine in Tenn. has a long block that was given to them and it is in storage so if it comes down to it they said I could have it so I do have a few options but that is yet to be seen on my own thank again!

**pajeff02** · 12-19-2013, 03:09 AM

Welcome to the site!

Curious as to what you find. The stock rockers will on occasion shuck their needles - but pulling the rocker cover should allow you to inspect for that. Overrevs can also bend pushrods - you need to roll them on a flat surface (such as a piece of glass) to check them after removal. Any misfires will throw a code that can be read with a scantool. I would inspect the starter installation after reading codes. Pay attention to the stuff above the starter - you have an oil level sensor and a crank position sensor in that vicinity.

**Car addict** · 12-19-2013, 02:16 PM

Thanks for all the advise and for the warm welcome, I had heard about the needle bearings doing that but wasn't too sure how they could do that, High revs are not a factor with the way I drive this car but it has had a hard life before me, as I am the 4th owner and the guy I bought it from bought another T/A after he sold this one and promptly blew up the motor in that one very shortly after he got it so I am figuring this one was beat pretty hard too while he had it, no telling until I crack her open and see what is up though.